Wheel Bearing for Rear . . Best Quality

[AarhusTr6]

Hi all

 

I can see plenty of good and informative threads on above and I am OK with the tasks but I have two additional questions:

 

1. What is the best quality (or good quality) bearings to buy and where? I hear there are some crap quality ones out there?

2. Whilst doing job, anything else worth doing, ie whilst I'm down there. . . .

 

Thanks

 

Rich

 

 

[DaveN]

If you are intent replacing the bearings I would pay particular attention to the condition of the axle, get it crack checked!

Good luck separating the tapers!

 

Dave

[AarhusTr6]

Was wondering on quality of this??

 

https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/hub-bearing-kit-rear-ghk1015.html?assoc=124877

 

But what I find odd is the individual bearings seem to cost as much as the kit

 

Rich

Edited June 15, 2018 by AarhusTr6

[Tom Boyd]

Hi,

 

You can buy a kit that consists of.....

 

1 x TIMKEN inner bearing

1 x TIMKEN outer bearing

1 x outer seal

1 x inner seal

1 x collapsable spacer

1 x adjuster spacer

1 x stoneguard

1 x adjusting nut lock tab

1 x drive flange key

1 x outer nyloc nut

1 x washer for outer nut

Cheers,

Tom

[Chris59]

If both are Koyos, they should last, but not as long as original rhp, Timken or skf.

Edited June 15, 2018 by Chris59

[AarhusTr6]

Hi,

 

You can buy a kit that consists of.....

 

1 x TIMKEN inner bearing

1 x TIMKEN outer bearing

1 x outer seal

1 x inner seal

1 x collapsable spacer

1 x adjuster spacer

1 x stoneguard

1 x adjusting nut lock tab

1 x drive flange key

1 x outer nyloc nut

1 x washer for outer nut

Cheers,

Tom

Hi Tom

 

Is it this?

http://www.triumphspecialtuning.com/index.php?route=product/product&manufacturer_id=27&product_id=264

Rich

[Mike C]

In Australia I'd get the numbers off the old bearings then go to an industrial bearing supplier and ask for the equivalent in SKF or Timken.

[Tom Boyd]

Hi Tom

 

Is it this?

http://www.triumphspecialtuning.com/index.php?route=product/product&manufacturer_id=27&product_id=264

Rich

Yes it is. Obviously other specialists can supply the same....

[RogerH]

Hi Rich,

unless you fit a NEW axle you run the threat of losing a wheel.

The old axle is 40 or 50 years old.

Due to the type of steel any crack testing method is useless. If it shows no crack then it could be on the point of breaking and it will go fast.

 

Do Not use a rebuilt hub unless it has a new axle.

 

Moss assemble hubs with all new components with quality bearings.

Mine have now run 15 months and still running well.

 

No connections with Moss other than happy chappy.

 

Roger

Edited July 9, 2018 by RogerH

[Motorsport Mickey]

Hi Rich,

 

Roger says..."Due to the type of steel any crack testing method is useless. If it shows no crack then it could be on the point of breaking and it will go fast."

 

Roger used to carry out non destructive crack testing on aeroplanes...he da man. He say Fit NEW hubs

 

+ 1 I also say ...fit them to whatever your choice of driveshaft is( when they break you don't lose a wheel and get catapulted over banks ).

 

Mick Richards

[AarhusTr6]

Hi guys

 

So I have a lovely set of new inner and outer Timkins bearings and fittings and the news on the axle has got me thinking now (thanks Roger) therefore I guess my dilemma now is what new parts should I order?

 

Thanks all

 

Rich

[Andy Moltu]

I'm with Roger - don't re-use the stub axle. Likely to be 50 years old, been put through a lot of forces and likely to be subjected to more just to get it apart.

 

There was nothing wrong with the original hub/bearing set up as verified by many cars running on their original hubs.

In many ways the bearings aren't an issue be they Koyo, Timken or RHP it's the stub axle - (you are unlikely to do enough miles to wear out the bearing)

 

Back in the day these hubs were used on the Stags and 2000s too - the only ones that managed to wear out their bearings in the usual life of the car were the estates when used for lugging heavy loads and long distances.

[astontr6]

I'm with Roger - don't re-use the stub axle. Likely to be 50 years old, been put through a lot of forces and likely to be subjected to more just to get it apart.

 

There was nothing wrong with the original hub/bearing set up as verified by many cars running on their original hubs.

In many ways the bearings aren't an issue be they Koyo, Timken or RHP it's the stub axle - (you are unlikely to do enough miles to wear out the bearing)

 

Back in the day these hubs were used on the Stags and 2000s too - the only ones that managed to wear out their bearings in the usual life of the car were the estates when used for lugging heavy loads and long distances.

Also reps with high mileage 2000 saloons of +90K, we had one of our saloons become a 3 wheeler! He was lucky and he only demolished a petrol pump as he turned into the petrol station and that was in the 1970's.

Therefore in my view only buy all new.

 

Bruce.

[Motorsport Mickey]

I'm with Roger - don't re-use the stub axle. Likely to be 50 years old, been put through a lot of forces and likely to be subjected to more just to get it apart.

 

There was nothing wrong with the original hub/bearing set up as verified by many cars running on their original hubs.

In many ways the bearings aren't an issue be they Koyo, Timken or RHP it's the stub axle - (you are unlikely to do enough miles to wear out the bearing)

 

Back in the day these hubs were used on the Stags and 2000s too - the only ones that managed to wear out their bearings in the usual life of the car were the estates when used for lugging heavy loads and long distances.

Hi Rich,

As Andy and Roger says the bearings are unlikely to kill you and your dearest

 

This is

 

 

Unfortunately the large forces required to spit the taper and remove the hub for rebuilding with your new bearings often damages the hub causing buckling or causes damage to the 50 year old stub axle which, when you put it back together causes this

 

 

These pictures are of a Stag hub (which uses the same trailing arm and hubs as the IRS TR), these hubs had been bought as a reconditioned pair and looked mint, when 1 broke the owner continued to use the other, it also broke, the combined life of both was 18 months. Don't buy used or reconditioned hubs, nobody can tell what damage has been done when being subjected to 20 tons on a press and often heat to try and remove the hub.

During their lives when they were fitted with replacement bearings and worked on by the large Triumph or Leyland service outlets the mechanics had flares sticking out of their overalls and hummed Beatles songs. The mechanics were young and so were the hubs, they stood the abuse required but like many of us the hubs and stub axles are now venerable and don't like bending forces, fit new hubs.

 

Mick Richards

Edited July 10, 2018 by Motorsport Mickey

[AarhusTr6]

Hi all

 

All very interesting. So can I buy the hub and stub axle part separate as I already have a new Timken bearing kit?

 

Appreciate the tolerances towards my naivety!

 

Rich

[jogger321]

Are Moss still doing exchange rear hubs? Can't see them on their site.... Bought one last year on the recommendation of somebody on here and touch wood all good after 1000 miles. I'm assuming a new stub axle fitted as part of the reconditioning?

 

I heard so many stories or folk wrecking hubs that they had to be junked because they didnt have the proper press that despite my motto of trying to do everything myself I decided to go the recon route....

[RogerH]

Hi all

 

All very interesting. So can I buy the hub and stub axle part separate as I already have a new Timken bearing kit?

 

Appreciate the tolerances towards my naivety!

 

Rich

Hi Rich,

you shouldn't need a new hub unless yours is damaged.

The shafts are normally available but on back order at present https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr5-6/clutch-transmission-drivetrain/drive-shafts-propshafts/propshaft-drive-shafts-tr5-6.html

 

Roger

Edited July 11, 2018 by RogerH

[RogerH]

Are Moss still doing exchange rear hubs? Can't see them on their site.... Bought one last year on the recommendation of somebody on here and touch wood all good after 1000 miles. I'm assuming a new stub axle fitted as part of the reconditioning?

 

I heard so many stories or folk wrecking hubs that they had to be junked because they didnt have the proper press that despite my motto of trying to do everything myself I decided to go the recon route....

Hi Adrian,

I wouldn;t assume it has a new stub axle. What did you pay for it.

The new hubs are £250 and the axle alone is £100 +.

 

I'm not sure if Moss will be doing refub'd hubs again.

 

Roger

[Motorsport Mickey]

Hi all

 

All very interesting. So can I buy the hub and stub axle part separate as I already have a new Timken bearing kit?

 

Appreciate the tolerances towards my naivety!

 

Rich

Hi Rich,

 

Don't worry about naivety we all were ...once.

 

If I were you I would buy 2 NEW rear hubs complete built up ready to fit your choice of driveshafts to, if the driveshafts break the results are unlikely to be dangerous, you can decide either your standard original driveshafts are ok ( that's cheap) or replace with the uprated prop shafts or even CV driveshafts. The critical thing is to get NEW hubs complete with all new parts.

I should advertise your nice new bearings through e bay or other sources, you should get near enough what you paid for them..

 

Mick Richards

Edited July 11, 2018 by Motorsport Mickey

[PaulAnderson]

I read on one of the numerous posts on IRS hubs that current reproduction ( not refurbished) ones from Moss Europe we’re the best source. Is that still correct as I need one?

Paul

[RogerH]

Hi Paul,

I have Moss hubs on my 4A and they have worked well for the past 3 summers (30.000+miles).

Bastuck also supply new hubs but I have no info on them.

 

Roger 

[Andy Moltu]

There is nothing wrong with the standard hub.

However original hubs are 50 years old and the safety critical item is the stub axle so so long as you rebuild it with a new stub axle you should be fine .

I would not risk my neck on a reconditioned hub that has retained the original stub axle. Similarly I've heard no bad reports on the new ones available and to be honest the hub is a substantial item so should have a relatively easy time in a TR application compared to the saloons and estates and it wasn't considered a weak link back in the day.

Is it cost effective to rebuild a hub with a new stub axle or a brand new hub is a different question as the cost of new hubs is nearly the same as new CV jointed driveshaft and hub? That's another question.

[RogerH]

Hi Andy,

there have been CV shaft failure. When more and more are converted we may well get far more failure especially when the miles are piled on.

 

Roger

Edited September 13, 2019 by RogerH
typo

[Motorsport Mickey]

Hi Roger,

Not to be underestimated the damage caused to the CV shafts by unrestrained trailing arm dropping. 

Same circumstances reported in the Stag forum where the shock absorbers have been removed, and the trailing arm allowed to drop fully. The gubbins inside the CV shafts become unrestrained and havoc ensues when the car is driven damaging the CV shafts. On TRs I strongly believe if the ORIGINAL lever arm shock absorber is left fitted it restrains the trailing arm droop ( that’s what the CV driveshafts were designed with). Whereas conversion to modern telescopic shock absorbers with a greater range will allow the trailing arm to overextend it’s droop and damaging the CV joints. Check out the Goodparts  driveshafts, they are VERY picky ensuring controlled driveshaft length both for being equal and in droop.

Mick Richards

 

[stuart]

Looking at the Goodparts shafts in comparison with the CDD ones the Goodparts look to be a completely different design and certainly more substantial.

Stuart.