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david c

Rocking Rollers, well that didn't work.

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Following my recent exploits trying to cure and irritating rattle.

The shim I made to stop number one rocker moving about too much has not cured the problem, but on the plus side has done no harm.

 

So the problem persists, I think it's probably time to admit that the "only" thing it can be is the little end bushes. when I rebuilt the engine I did think the bearings were not a very tight fit, but not being much of a mechanic and being in a hurry to get the car running I confess I ignored it, That may have been a mistake.

 

The question is, dare I ignore for the rest of the summer or just get on with it?

Second question is it worth trying to remove the pistons with the sump and head off without removing the engine or would that be more trouble than doing it right?

 

 

Thanks David

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Everyone will have their own views David but I wouldn't think twice about pulling the pistons with the engine in situ - done it several times.

 

Keeping the liners clamped firm is the key.

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Thanks John,

That sound like good news, sort of thing I can probably do without missing half the summer.

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Hi David

Many years ago I rebuilt a TR2 engine in a Glasgow side street without taking the engine out. I replaced the pistons and liners and rebuilt the cylinder head then drove it down to Maldon to see my parents then on to the south of France without any problems. On a trip to Andorra modern cars were overheating in the Pyrenees but not the TR. Have faith.

Cheers

Richard

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That's rather impressive, if it can be done at the side of the road it shouldn't be so difficult do do it in a nice warm garage..............even for me.

 

I have faith in the TR engine it's so willing and tries so hard despite my ineptitude.

 

David

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The small ends normally run quite happily for many miles making little clucking noises when cold and then becoming silent upon warming. They usually give increasing warning of wear as they increase in noise and eventually refuse to become silent even with a fully warm engine.

Given that we are into June allready and in about 4 months you'll be thinking about taking the car off the road for winter lay up, unless you have a continental tour in mind and thinking that small end bush wear doesn't damage any other component I can think of in a "cooking" engine, maybe you could postpone any action until winter...your call.

 

Also Chiliman John is on the money, our TR engine is a design classic and although regarded as being crude has the benefit of "being hewn out of granite". It also has the ultimate in " individual component replacement " at the side of the road or other gentle resting place with even the crankshaft if snapped being able to be replaced from underneath. The operation being listed in the TR Technicalities CD with a handy warning not to let half of the now "bipod" crankshaft fall on you !

The removal of pistons and con rods can easily be achieved by removing the head and sump and pushing the Pistons and con rods up from underneath, as John says, immediately secure the liners in place with large washers clamped down to prevent the Figure of Eight gaskets lower down the liners being disturbed.

 

Mick Richards

Edited by Motorsport Mickey

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David,

 

I removed and replaced my pistons with the engine in situ a month ago.

It’s tedious, makes your arms ache, and as soon as you have finished you will say to yourself “I’m never going to do that again.”

 

However, now four weeks have passed I’m saying ” Well … it wasn’t all that bad… I’d do it again if I had to.”

 

Just make sure you have all the gaskets ready for the rebuild and wear a pair of thick gloves so that when your torque wrench slips tightening up the big end bolts you don’t end up smashing your thumb on the chassis.

 

Back in the 1970’s I changed my big end shells on a beach near Monte Carlo.

Not having any axle stands I simply dug a shallow pit in the sand and crawled into it.

Amazing what you can do when you have no alternative. (and you are only 24 years old.)

 

Charlie.

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Thank you Mick

That's just the sort of advise I wanted to hear, my fear was the bush wear would in turn damage the con rods.

The "noise" I have happens no matter if the engine is warm or cold, so I have to assume the little end bushes are well and truly shot

I did't have any long distance driving planed and I will take it easy for the rest of the summer and get stuck in this winter.

 

Thank you David

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Drive it, fix it in the winter. Sump off, head off, doing the middle bits is no problem

 

Simon

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Hello Charlie

 

As you say at the time you say "that's it, never doing that again" and a week or so later it never seems so bad, especially it the jobs gone right.

 

Digging your own inspection pit ..........in the sand! seems like a very cunning plan if your 24, when your knocking on a bit it seems perhaps just a little risky?

 

As Mick Richards has suggested it may not be too big a problem to leave it 'till later in the year I think that's what I will do.

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The removal of pistons and con rods can easily be achieved by removing the head and sump and pushing the Pistons and con rods up from underneath, as John says, immediately secure the liners in place with large washers clamped down to prevent the Figure of Eight gaskets lower down the liners being disturbed.

 

 

Presumably the "immediately" refers to immediately after removing the head Mick, before removing the pistons?

 

Pete

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Presumably the "immediately" refers to immediately after removing the head Mick, before removing the pistons?

 

Pete

Yep...head off and next job is straight onto clamping the liners with heavy duty washers over cylinder head studs where the liner "Siamese" ie...OO a washer either side. Use a substantial tube on top of the washer ( I use old gudgeon pins) and tighten down to about 40 lb ft ( not critical) to prevent the liners being disturbed. After that you it should be bomb proof to do what anybody wishes, undo the big ends and push up Pistons and conrods from underneath, I don't suppose I need to say mark the Pistons in order so they go back in the correct cylinders...do I ?...thought not. Scratch 1.2.3.4 inside the piston skirt in case they get wiped off whilst they are being handled.

 

Order the small ends and have them ready to fit, then remove the Pistons and take conrods and new small ends with the old gudgeon pins to a near by engineering firm and ask them to press out and fit new small ends and hone to fit the gudgeon pins. Try and keep the gudgeon pins in order to match the Pistons, they should be within a few 1/10s of thou between them anyway, but be finicky. It gives the components the best chance.

 

Mick Richards

Edited by Motorsport Mickey

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All good advise, thankyou.

I don't plan to start this until September, promise I'll take it easy 'till then.

 

David

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