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Richardtr3a

SU tuning

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I am trying to improve my mpg and the carbs have been overhauled. The engine runs and ticks over smoothly.

 

If I lift off the top of the float chamber, how far below the edge of the chamber should the float be resting.

 

Please advise.

 

Thanks Richard

Edited by Richardtr3a

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Hi Richard

 

the wsm has a simple guike to setting float hieghts. They should be set at 7/16th of an inch or in metric 11mm

 

cheers

 

Alan

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Thanks. The lid has been set up, but I was wondering what the mesurement was from the float to the rim of the float chamber. Just checking to be on the safe side.

 

Thanks

Richard

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Thanks. The lid has been set up, but I was wondering what the mesurement was from the float to the rim of the float chamber. Just checking to be on the safe side.

 

Thanks

Richard

Nobody measures it that way Richard, as Alan says workshop manual setting of 7/16th inch spacing works on the lid, as you can imagine a dimension shown as a fraction isn't all that critical. How long has the engine been built and how many miles has it covered ?

 

Mick Richards

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Hi Richard,

You say they have been overhauled, professionally? If so why should float level be the issue. A good overhaul should not only include this but new spring , needles, jets, play on butterfly spindles etc.

If you are not certain the needles and jets are new replace them first as you can not really determine their true condition, this is the starting point to get a good tune state. Tiny darker marks on the shank indicate wear and these are critical profile related items.

Once you get the float level/ jets right, use a Colourtune.

I use 4 of these and this lets me compare flame colour and highlights any air seal/leak issue.

Do this at night and light show is really good, hee hee!

 

Seriously, a much overlooked piece of kit.

 

NB, I suggest that you also replace the float needles with Modern ones from Burlens, this prevents overfueling and leaks.

Rod

Edited by Rodbr

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Hi Richard ~

 

Like Rod I also use four Colortunes which makes adjusting the carbs. much easier, I've also fitted the Grose valves to my

3A and 'E'-type with absolutely no flooding problems. I attach a photo. of the type of Colortune I prefer.

I'm not keen on the current 'fiddly' model. I Googled up Colortune and found four of the original models.

I've been using Colortune since they first came out in the 60's.

 

Tom.

Edited by Fireman049

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My carbs were overhauled by Alan Turner and he made a very good job. I have had to replace the cork seals and next time they leak I have a special

uprated kit from Burlen.

 

The valves are viton tipped and are adjusted as per the manual..

 

Thanks for the advice. I am taking the fuel tank out this morning to check the connections and the condition of the tank base. It was sealed with slosh tank sealant but 32 years ago. What is a good sealant now.

 

Thanks Richard

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Hi Richard

 

the wsm has a simple guike to setting float hieghts. They should be set at 7/16th of an inch or in metric 11mm

 

cheers

 

Alan

Wrinkle free gaffer tape shows a person cares..........but not enough

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Hi Richard,

Given that it has already been sealed once I hesitate to suggest that it's time for either a new tank or at least a good used one. Beg borrow or steal and endoscope and have a good shufty round the inside. If it is smelly again then fuel has perhaps gone behind the slush sealant and opened a new area. The thought of 10 to 12 gallons of fuel 2 feet behind me with the potential to leak into boot and pax compartment leaves me cold.

I bit the bullet and had the first Alloy tank made for a TR2 in alloy by a first class alloy fabrication company. It is a shame to cover such a work of art.

Best of luck

Rod.

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Wrinkle free gaffer tape shows a person cares..........but not enough

:D :D

Edited by Kiwifrog

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