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AF178 contact adhesive for dashtop

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Hi Troops,

Been doing loads of research and you are recommending AF178. I'm anxious about applying this glue and then having to line everything up and feed the front into the scuttle and screwing down before it sets..

I haven't seen or ordered the glue yet. Is it possible to put some in a squeeze bottle with a long nozzle and then squeeze it under the dashtop through the demister Escutcheon slots to get it to the front where it is needed most or is it too thick for this?

 

I'm tempted to find an adhesive that gives more drying time. When we removed the old dashtop there was barely any glue but it had risen up at the front. The windscreen has been removed.

 

Now to watch some upholstery videos on you tube!

 

Christine

 

PS - whilst hunting the forum, I came across this 2014 post by Roger - It did make me laugh - Tomorrow I shall make a full powered convertible soft top using only a Kellogs cornflake packet and a ball of string.

Wonder if he's finished it yet :)

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I should have described to you the way I used this stuff to do really tricky stuff like Vinyl on the screen-frame.

 

I DIDN'T paint the whole thing with glue on both sides and then hope to drop it in the right place.

 

I did about 6 inches in the middle and positioning this was quite easy because the ends didn't stick.

Then do a a bit more at a time. Work out both sides from the middle.

 

Don't build up extra thickness of glue where you leave off.

 

Stagger the leaving off point on each side. So maybe 6in of glue on the metal bulkhead and only 4in on the dash-top.

 

I used a Moss dash-top and these are a kind of flexible rubber. If you have a stiffer type then you will need to do bigger areas but it will be easier to position than a more floppy one.

 

You could use some kind of plastic film, like the old fashioned Fablon, between the two parts so the glue does not touch. Then gradually withdraw this. Even waxy baking paper would be OK for this I think.

 

I'd put "alignment" dots with a marker of some kind every 2 inches and make sure to work to them.

 

The risk is you stretch out the dash-top as you go which then winds up too long.

 

All the upholstery type work and stuff like screen rubbers and boot seals has this stretching out problem.

 

Oh and do a DRY-FIT including the screen-frame to make sure it will all go. This will be much easier than trying to trim some off after you stuck it down and find the frame won't fit.

Edited by AlanT

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Hi Christine,

this stuff from Woolies will allow more time but I've never used it so don;t know how good it is

 

https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/product/1652/thixofix

 

 

The convertible roof was done. I then made a fully working Lancaster complete with bouncing bomb from little trinkets I found on a hedgerow.

 

Dreams are good.

 

Roger

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I used ThixoFix to secure wood veneer. It lasted about 45 years INDOORS. But it did come loose. It's about the same as ordinary EvoStick.

 

These all have the problem of grabbing, even though you are not exactly in the right place.

 

AF178 is a bit harder to handle but not much.

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Hi Guys - thanks Roger but on checking Thixofix it's not suitable for polystyrene which my TR Shop dashtop is made from. AF178 is suitable for polystyrene.

Thanks Alan for the detailed instructions, unless any other suggestions are forthcoming it looks like I will have to bite the bouncing bomb Roger!

 

Scary...

 

Christine

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If TR shop dash-tops really are polystyrene, I think they maybe dissolved by AF178 also.

 

I'd run a test on a small area and possibly fall back to some less secure kind of adhesive like Gorrila.

 

The originals would have been expanded-polyurethane I believe.

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You dont need to glue any of the actual top down, you only need a bit of glue around the front lower edge where the actual plastic return goes down around and behind the steel dash. The rest is perfectly well held down by the vents and the screen frame. The AF 178 glue works fine for this job, I have fitted quite a few with no problem using this method. The TR Shop dashtop is the closest you will find to original in both construction and looks. The only problem you may encounter is the vent fixing holes need a little trimming as do the vent slots and the holes for the screen frame inner bolts may also need a little trim, do all of them carefully with a scalpel

I fit the dash top dry, get it lined up checking how the rear folds over and that the holes for the dash bolts line up and get the vents fixed and then fit the screen frame and finally do the glueing at the rear making sure the dash bolt holes are clear (You can loose fit these bolts at this stage as the metal dash just slips on over them)

Stuart.

Edited by stuart

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For the record, a Moss dash-top is NOT the way to go.

 

I made it work OK but it took a bit of extra work.

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For the record, a Moss dash-top is NOT the way to go.

 

I made it work OK but it took a bit of extra work.

No they`ve never been a patch on the TR Shop ones Im afraid.

Stuart.

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Hi All - many thanks for input and yes it is expanded polyurethane covered with vinyl...I can only blame a senior moment for this misnomer!

Glue ordered and with all your advice it should all come together nicely. Fingers crossed for the switch plinth holes next...

 

Christine

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