Jump to content

RENEWING REAR ENGINE OIL SEAL


Recommended Posts

Hi Willie,

PCV = Pollution Control Valve.

If you have it it will sit next to the rocker cover on the offside of the engine.

It looks like a 3" diameter flying saucer.

 

It would be worth removing ti to see what happens.

 

In my case the removal improved my oil usage 100% from 300Miles/ltr to 600+ and improving.

 

Roger

Link to post
Share on other sites

Is removing the PCV the answer to all engine problems?

 

Always had my PCV fitted and even renewed the diaphragm last year, but after reading all the advise about removing it, I have. Immediate changes:

1/ Idle has dropped from lumpy 1000rpm to a not so lumpy 600 rpm

2/ Engine feels like it picks up better

3/ More high rpm power. (went to Castle Coombe and anything above 4250 rpm was a waste of time......not now)

 

Have the normal rear crank oil seal leak........will report if this gets better

For years have had no 2 plug fowl if I use choke to start. (not No. 1 and have new carbs fitted) .... will report if this goes away.

 

If this PCV is such a nuisance why was it ever fitted? American market??

 

Cheers

 

Simon

Edited by PYU940F
Link to post
Share on other sites

Just noticed my deliberate error. Just be aware I do not have a chicken living in number 2 pot simmering away.

Link to post
Share on other sites

My 4A has dripped oil from the rear seal since purchased 12 years ago. I have learnt to live with it but it is a little embarrassing @ some locations I attend (smart drive ways etc!).

Some years ago I decided I would replace with the Marx seal only when the engine needs to come out for something more serious although I have heard that things are not always cured & that damn design can still leak whatever you do!

I installed the full Racetorations engine breather kit after junking the other awful bit of TR design, the PCV! A possibly slight but only slight improvement may have occurred.

One consolation, at least one is keeping the oil clean, with replenishment of around a pint every 400/500 miles or so! Keeping the level only halfway up the dipstick does help things but I think one problem is the high oil pressure of around 80-85 for the first few miles from cold, until it settles @ a more normal 70-75 (15-20 @ idle).

My advice would be to buy the best seal kit available (probably the Marx item) & hope for the best!

Cheers.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Chris, forgive my ignorance, but what is a PCV closed circuit valve, and would a late TR4 have this fitted? Best wishes Willie

Hi Willie, if your car has "Closed Circuit Breathing" as you mentioned then I would expect it to have a PCV. See Rogers reply also.

Chris

Link to post
Share on other sites

They're the things at the side of motorways. On our cars, PCV = Positive Crankcase Ventilation.

 

Pete :P

That's the thing.

 

I was initially thinking of Pressure Control Valve but knew that was wrong.

 

Roger

Link to post
Share on other sites

I fitted the mad Marx seal to my TR4a. If the car is on a bridge it can be done with out removing the engine from the car. It is even not necessary to remove the crank from de engine. I did it in situe. Remove the fly wheel and sump. Then undo the bolts of the rear seal. Remove the rear bearing cap and then the rear scroll comes out. Fit the seal to the crank.apply glue to the machined rear scroll and the top half rotates in to place.then refit the rear bearing block and the bottom half of the seal. I packed some spaces between the crank rear flange and the seal to press in to place. Let the glue dry. Now the important bit. The bolts of the fly wheel are now too long! They need to be shortened and to not protrude the crank flange. The car is up and running with no leaks

Link to post
Share on other sites

interestingly, I have only just bought a TT1032 from DMG/Moss as I'm trying to get enough parts together to build another engine.

This thread has made me go off to the back of the car to look at what I have actually got as I was going to drop it off at the machining guys as I remembered from 25 years ago it has to be machined!

 

It says on the invoice "this kit requires machining of the crankshaft prior to installation and for this reason it is not considered a DIY operation"

 

The fitting instructions sheet that comes with the kit is headed "Part No CNA418K"

It goes on to say "regrind the scroll area and also drill 2no extra oil drain holes in the bottom of the rear main cap, (one either side of the original) at a similar angle. This will remove all unnecessary pressure from the seal and will not affect your oil pressure"

 

also, also, I've just noticed on your link that you need a fitting tool for this seal conversion? doesn't say anything about it on the invoice or the fitting instructions

 

confused of Bromsgrove.............

Edited by Nigel C
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Nigel,

why have it machined. Get the Christian Marx rear seal and it fits without too much tears.

 

Be careful though as there is a cheaper version on the market that doesn't fit/last as well.

 

Roger

Link to post
Share on other sites

interestingly, I have only just bought a TT1032 from DMG/Moss as I'm trying to get enough parts together to build another engine.

This thread has made me go off to the back of the car to look at what I have actually got as I was going to drop it off at the machining guys as I remembered from 25 years ago it has to be machined!

 

It says on the invoice "this kit requires machining of the crankshaft prior to installation and for this reason it is not considered a DIY operation"

 

The fitting instructions sheet that comes with the kit is headed "Part No CNA418K"

It goes on to say "regrind the scroll area and also drill 2no extra oil drain holes in the bottom of the rear main cap, (one either side of the original) at a similar angle. This will remove all unnecessary pressure from the seal and will not affect your oil pressure"

 

also, also, I've just noticed on your link that you need a fitting tool for this seal conversion? doesn't say anything about it on the invoice or the fitting instructions

 

confused of Bromsgrove.............

I have the fitting tool for the Marx seal if you want to borrow it Nigel.

Stuart.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Marx seal is only way to go to stand a chance of no leakage, in my opinion.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the offer Stuart, very kind of you. Firstly though, were do I get my hands on one of Christian's seal kits? I@ll gladly be advised down this route as this is what forums are all about, hands on knowledge and personal product testing :)

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Folks,

Just an update on the seal. Gbx is currently out of the car being overhauled and clutch renewed. This is the seal we exposed. Is this the TT1032 seal type [i have got one - see pic]? We are of the opinion that as the oil leak in no way was contaminating any part of the clutch that we are going to leave sleeping dog lie!

One issue we uncovered was that the clutch release brg was very loose and noisy. Centre appears to be white plastic! New brg all metal. The carrier was a drop fit into the brg so that is being replaced as an 11th hour extra. Hope carrier will be in Herefordshire today and the car in Barry, South Wales on Sunday!!

 

Best wishes Willie

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.