Jump to content


Photo

Door frame bottom repair


  • Please log in to reply
6 replies to this topic

#1 PodOne

PodOne
  • Registered User
  • 52 posts

Posted 12 May 2018 - 07:53 PM

Hi all

 

While replacing the inner/outer sills I noticed that the bottom of the door frames are in need of repair. The prevoius owner has replaced both the door skins so looks good on the outside but it won't be long before the rusting frame ruins the result later on.

 

I looked at the usual suspects with regard to repair panels and there seems to be none available unlike for other classics. Has anyone have any experience of repairing the frame without the need to remove the skin? Could the lower lip be bent back and the repair done?

 

Thanks all

 

Andy


  • 0

#2 SeanF

SeanF
  • TR Register Members
  • 626 posts
  • Location:South East UK

Posted 12 May 2018 - 09:20 PM

Hi Andy,

 

it seems incredible that someone would go to the trouble of fitting a new door skin but not repair the rusty frame at the same time.

 

I'm sure Stuart will be along to advise, but I would have thought that it is possible to carefully fold back the flange on the door skin and repair the frame. An old flat screwdriver with the head bent over at 90 degrees is useful for opening flanges like this. The flange may have been tack welded or spot welded to the frame so look out for that.

 

I had to repair both of my door frames but on one I removed and replaced the skin and on the other I replaced the bottom 4 inches of the skin.

 

Cheers

 

Sean

 

Attached Files


  • 0
Many thanks.
 
Sean

#3 PodOne

PodOne
  • Registered User
  • 52 posts

Posted 13 May 2018 - 07:30 AM

Thanks Sean for the screwdriver trick.

 

Agree a daft idea of a bodge.

 

Out of interest what gauge steel did you use? I suspect 18 gauge will be difficult to use  here.

 

Regards

 

Andy


  • 0

#4 SeanF

SeanF
  • TR Register Members
  • 626 posts
  • Location:South East UK

Posted 13 May 2018 - 08:16 AM

Andy,

 

I think I used 18 for the frame and 20 for the skin bottom, but TBH it was a few years ago and I can't really remember.

 

Cheers, 

 

Sean


  • 0
Many thanks.
 
Sean

#5 RogerH

RogerH
  • TR Register Members
  • 21,504 posts
  • Location:West London

Posted 13 May 2018 - 08:25 AM

Hi Andy,

  if you decide to fold back the return on the door skin place a solid block on the door skin to reduce any distortion.

18SWG is nice to work with, assuming you can bend it etc.  If it is thicker that the original skin make sure that where the door skin contacts it it is flush.

 

The corners may be brazed to hold them.

 

Roger


  • 0
Time is a drug - Too much will kill you
Forgive your enemy, but remember the ass-hole's name.
never surrender, never give up and always balance your butterflies

Veni Vidi Flati
TR4A - July 1967 daily driver         2010 RBRR No.22  2014 RBRR No.69
TR4 - March 1962 transforming like the proverbial caterpillar - it's now Royal Blue and now with the chromy bits.
 
 
 
 
 

#6 stuart

stuart
  • TR Register Members
  • 18,508 posts
  • Location:Grampound Road Cornwall
  • Cars Owned::TR Restoration,. Owner of Watermill Carriage Co Ltd restorers of 50s and 60s British sports cars, especially TRs.

Posted 13 May 2018 - 03:49 PM

Its relatively easy to do and yes a bent screwdriver will help to lift the edge but be careful you dont distort the outer skin. Best to only lift the lip to 90 degrees so you can remove the rotten part, use some Bondarust between when you fit the repair section too. I always use 18SWG for all panel repairs as its much stronger, easier to weld and matches in with most of the original better.

Stuart.


  • 0

TR4A Royal blue TR5 White  Volvo V70 D5 twin turbo
Plus whatever TR is in workshop for restoration.
 


#7 PodOne

PodOne
  • Registered User
  • 52 posts

Posted 13 May 2018 - 03:53 PM

Thanks all for the input and "tips".

 

Regards

 

Andy


  • 0




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users