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Tr4aJim

Tr4a new brakes pull to the right

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Folks,

 

Over the winter I replaced the entire braking system on my live axle TR4a. Rotors, calipers, pads, shoes, lines, hoses, MC, the lot. I also went with silicone fluid for the first time.

 

I took the car for a test drive yesterday, and found that the car pulled slightly to the right under braking. If I applied the brakes multiple times in a row, it seems like the pull is greatest the initial time and diminishes. However if I wait and apply them again, the pull returns.

 

I tried bleeding the brakes again, but no air came out. With the front jacked up, I had my wife apply the brakes and found both front wheels will lock up solid.

 

When I did the installations, I bench bled the MC, and I adjusted rear brakes by tightening the adjuster until the brakes locked, then backed off the adjusters one flat.

 

Any ideas what else to check?

 

Thanks

 

Jim

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Folks,

 

Over the winter I replaced the entire braking system on my live axle TR4a. Rotors, calipers, pads, shoes, lines, hoses, MC, the lot. I also went with silicone fluid for the first time.

 

I took the car for a test drive yesterday, and found that the car pulled slightly to the right under braking. If I applied the brakes multiple times in a row, it seems like the pull is greatest the initial time and diminishes. However if I wait and apply them again, the pull returns.

 

I tried bleeding the brakes again, but no air came out. With the front jacked up, I had my wife apply the brakes and found both front wheels will lock up solid.

 

When I did the installations, I bench bled the MC, and I adjusted rear brakes by tightening the adjuster until the brakes locked, then backed off the adjusters one flat.

 

Any ideas what else to check?

 

Thanks

 

Jim

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Hi Jim, check the front wheel bearings, pads on one side could be pushed back by disc if too much play on bearing.

Chris

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Grease on one of the discs?

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Could just be that the RH pads are bedded in better than the LH pads. If the pull isn't strong enough to be dangerous I'd drive it for a while until both sets of pads are well bedded in.

Also check that both front tyre pressures are equal and the steering geometry is correct.

 

Pete

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My first step would be to (try to) work out

whether it's the front or rear brakes at fault.

 

If it's the front, I would expect the pulling to

be more pronounced under heavier braking.

 

Rear shoes can take a little time to bed in -

that would be my (speculative) guess.

 

AlanR

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I agree with Chris. Pad knock back is a possibility. Too much bearing slack on the opposite side to which the car pulls means that the other side bites first when the brakes are applied. Once you have full brake pressure applied do they still pull?

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Thank you everyone for the responses!

 

The pull is subtle but noticeable, but very controllable. I did give both rotors a shot of brake cleaner, but it had no effect. I will check how the left side bearing tightness compares with the right. If that doesn’t help, I’ll drive it a bit and see if front/rear pads are still seating.

 

Thanks again,

 

Jim

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Jim

 

Try swapping the pads over if there doesn't appear to be any difference in bearing play between each side

 

Cheers

 

Rich

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Had something similar on a Ford Escort. All new components. Slight brake pull in the dry. A lot worse in the wet. Turned out to be unmatched discs with different coefficients of friction.

Alan.

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Alan, Rich, thanks.

 

Things to do today:

Check bearing tightness.

Swap front pads side to side.

 

I bought both rotors from Rimmer Bros, so hopefully they are matched.

I didn’t touch the front suspension, and the car braked straight before my work, so I’ll assume for now that the front geometry is still ok.

 

Jim

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Jim,

 

If you renewed and oiled the front wheel bearing felt seals, make sure there's not a dribble of oil running down the back face of disk.

 

Steve

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Jim,

 

If you renewed and oiled the front wheel bearing felt seals, make sure there's not a dribble of oil running down the back face of disk.

 

Steve

Good call!

 

When i bought my first tr6 the brakes were terrible.

 

Much investigation eventually led to replacing the disks, transformation!

 

I have no idea what the po had done to the disks but they were slipperier then the leader of the Eel party when asked about their expenses!

 

Steve

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Steve, I had thought of that too, but didn’t see any evidence. Still I gave both rotors a good wash with brake cleaner. Yesterday I pulled both sets of front pads, gave then a good clean, and swapped each pair side to side. I also checked the bearing looseness and convinced myself that the left side was slightly more loose than the right, so I tightened the left hub nut one more flat. I also checked the front tire (tyre) pressures, and both are still at 24lbs (I set the fronts at 24 and the rears at 26, does that sound reasonable?). All set for a test drive, but it’s been raining pretty hard, so waiting for a break in the weather. Will report what I find.

 

BTW - A tip of the hat to the members of this board. You’ve all been very helpful (and patient) with my various inquires!

 

Jim

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Folks, well the clouds parted long enough to take a test drive, and the brakes are sorted!! Unfortunately I made the classic diagnostic mistake of changing two things at once, so I don’t know if cleaning/swapping the front pads or tightening the left bearings, was the solution. Anyway it’s stopping true. Thanks again for all the suggestions.

 

Cheers,

 

Jim

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Glad it’s sprted Jim

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