stillp Posted May 9, 2018 Report Share Posted May 9, 2018 As stated elsewhere, my top rad hose sprung a leak over the weekend. Picked up a new one from TRGB yesterday and fitted it today, but to get it to fit I had to cut about 10 mm off each end, soak it in boiling water to soften it, and lever it into place with a screwdriver. I had a similar problem with the one fitted last year. I have a couple of very old spare top hoses, and all seem to be about the same length, i.e., about 20 - 25 mm too long to fit between the thermostat housing and the radiator header tank. As far as I know my engine is in the right place, and although the radiator has a slight lean backwards the radiator support brackets are in place, and don't allow the radiator to be any further forward. Does anyone else have this problem with the top hose on the 4 cylinder engine? Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MikeF Posted May 9, 2018 Report Share Posted May 9, 2018 On my [early] 4 the top supports are threaded rods with nuts that are screwed tight to the rad brackets. I replaced the top and bottom hoses easily enough using silicone upgrade type from Moss. This was 12 years ago when I had just got the car. [These days I would probably go on line and buy the hose direct.] So far as I remember the top hose was a little shorter than the original and I eased the rad in a little to accommodate by winding the nuts down the rods a little Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted May 9, 2018 Report Share Posted May 9, 2018 As stated elsewhere, my top rad hose sprung a leak over the weekend. Picked up a new one from TRGB yesterday and fitted it today, but to get it to fit I had to cut about 10 mm off each end, soak it in boiling water to soften it, and lever it into place with a screwdriver. I had a similar problem with the one fitted last year. I have a couple of very old spare top hoses, and all seem to be about the same length, i.e., about 20 - 25 mm too long to fit between the thermostat housing and the radiator header tank. As far as I know my engine is in the right place, and although the radiator has a slight lean backwards the radiator support brackets are in place, and don't allow the radiator to be any further forward. Does anyone else have this problem with the top hose on the 4 cylinder engine? Pete Peter you have a pm. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted May 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2018 Peter you have a pm. Peter W Peter you have a reply! Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted May 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2018 On my [early] 4 the top supports are threaded rods with nuts that are screwed tight to the rad brackets. I replaced the top and bottom hoses easily enough using silicone upgrade type from Moss. This was 12 years ago when I had just got the car. [These days I would probably go on line and buy the hose direct.] So far as I remember the top hose was a little shorter than the original and I eased the rad in a little to accommodate by winding the nuts down the rods a little Mike Thanks Mike. The brackets on the 4A don't allow any adjustment, unfortunately. Interesting that your replacement hose was too short, whereas all mine have been much too long. I think when I first fitted hoses to the car back in 1988/89, I took the rad out to fit the top hose, but it's a bit more difficult now with a Kenlowe fitted to the mounting brackets after my original fan threw a blade! Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
graeme Posted May 10, 2018 Report Share Posted May 10, 2018 Pete, Have you checked your engine mounts, they could be deteriorating or even fitted incorrectly. Cheers Graeme Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 10, 2018 Report Share Posted May 10, 2018 As stated elsewhere, my top rad hose sprung a leak over the weekend. Picked up a new one from TRGB yesterday and fitted it today, but to get it to fit I had to cut about 10 mm off each end, soak it in boiling water to soften it, and lever it into place with a screwdriver. I had a similar problem with the one fitted last year. I have a couple of very old spare top hoses, and all seem to be about the same length, i.e., about 20 - 25 mm too long to fit between the thermostat housing and the radiator header tank. As far as I know my engine is in the right place, and although the radiator has a slight lean backwards the radiator support brackets are in place, and don't allow the radiator to be any further forward. Does anyone else have this problem with the top hose on the 4 cylinder engine? Pete Hi Pete, I have had a play recently with the top hose. The easiest way to fit/remove it is to remove the two bolts holding the thermostat housing to the block (and the bypass hose). Slide into position and then refit housing. Make sure the hose is cut to length before trying to fit. Usually don;t need a new gasket. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rem18 Posted May 10, 2018 Report Share Posted May 10, 2018 Personally I dont use TRGB anymore as I they sent me the wrong stuff and when I complained after going to fit It they played the trick regards saying I was overdue for a return. Strikes me if you work in good faith you shouldnt try and play childish games. If what was ordered was for a 5 and you send parts for a 6 them you are wrong full stop. The real character shows through when people play games so how can you trust them not to cut corners elsewhere? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted May 10, 2018 Report Share Posted May 10, 2018 (edited) Yes the top hoses of side-screen cars are about 1/2" shorter than those for the wind-up window cars. The other obvious check for this is that the front crank/fan mount extension of a sidescreen engine is shorter by about that amount, than a TR4-4A item. The original 3 convolution TR top hose was covered externally by stockinette - concourse judges please take note. My NOS TR4 top hoses are getting on for 5" long, whereas my used TR2-3 items are nearer 4.5" long. The parts world has more frequently in recent years supplied the longer hose for a TR4-4A and expected the owner/fitter to cut accordingly for side-screen cars. Sadly the current stock of black rubber hoses in the marketplace are almost 1/2" too long again for TR4-4A cars. The hose found to be too short for a TR4-4A will probably be a Lee Healey mfct. item that is not reinforced and based on the side-screen car top hose. When fitting a top hose simply measure from header tank face to thermostat cover outlet, and cut the hose to suit. - I use an electric B&D band saw, but a hacksaw will work. Do as Roger says, just undo the two bolts that hold the thermostat housing to the head and slide the assy out, fit new hose and slip back into place. Side-screen car owners have to be careful here as the capillary temp sender needs to be treated delicately. When refilling. Leave the upper bypass hose clip loose to allow water to fill as high as possible into the thermostat housing before tightening. - My own car has a small tapered bleed screw plug threaded into the top face of the thermostat housing for water system bleeding. like this https://www.air-compressorsdirect.co.uk/bsp-fittings/plug-bsp/1-8-n-bsp-male-tapered-hex-plug.html A 1/8" BSP tap is about a fiver. I have also fitted the winged type radiator drain taps to housings. https://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk/products/536-drain-tap Cheers Peter W Edited May 10, 2018 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted May 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2018 Pete, Have you checked your engine mounts, they could be deteriorating or even fitted incorrectly. Cheers Graeme They look pretty good Graeme, as does the gearbox mount, and the engine doesn't seem to move forwards/back when persuaded with a length of wood. Of course the engine and g/box are attached to the chassis, while the radiator support brackets attach to the body, which might explain the slight backward slope to the rad, but I'm not going to try shifting the body forward! I might just take those brackets off and slot the holes a little... or more likely I'll just keep trimming a bit off new top hoses! Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted May 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2018 Hi Pete, I have had a play recently with the top hose. The easiest way to fit/remove it is to remove the two bolts holding the thermostat housing to the block (and the bypass hose). Slide into position and then refit housing. Make sure the hose is cut to length before trying to fit. Usually don;t need a new gasket. Roger Roger, my thermostat housing hasn't moved in 29 years - I think I'd better get a spare gasket just in case! Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 10, 2018 Report Share Posted May 10, 2018 Roger, my thermostat housing hasn't moved in 29 years - I think I'd better get a spare gasket just in case! Pete Hi Pete, you may need new bolts and possibly a replacement head Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted May 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2018 Damn, that means I'll have to check the liner protrusion, which will be wrong, and the cam will be worn... is it worth putting a new engine and g/box in this old chassis, or should I just buy a new car? Joking aside, I probably have a few NOS thermostat gaskets in the large bag of leftovers from various engine rebuilds. It was fitted with a smear of Hylomar on both sides, so might well be cemented on by now as Hylomar does set eventually. Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rem18 Posted May 11, 2018 Report Share Posted May 11, 2018 You may find the threads are corroded when you take the thermostat housing off as the water gets in. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 11, 2018 Report Share Posted May 11, 2018 But better to take it off now, rather than in another 29 years when it will be even more corroded ! Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted May 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2018 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted May 15, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2018 Well, hose replaced, without drama, except for a cut wrist where a cable tie attacked me while reaching behind the rad to drain the water. System drained, flushed and refilled with fresh antifreeze. Went for a drive to make sure all the air was out of the cooling system, and... no temp gauge, or fuel guage, so back home to replace the voltage stabiliser. I think I should follow Mr Witt's advice, and use my TR even less! Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Will Posted May 16, 2018 Report Share Posted May 16, 2018 Pete, Mines a 6, but recently I had intermittent failure of the temp and fuel gauges, and overdrive. It was a loose riveted terminal at the fuse box building resistance which manifested itself in melted plastic. Replaced it with a spare fuse box but took the precaution of soldering each terminal on the back. Can’t be too careful with this Lucas India stuff. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PYU940F Posted May 18, 2018 Report Share Posted May 18, 2018 (edited) Make sure the housing the hose attaches to is the correct way up. Mine was (and probably had been for years) upside down and it made fitting the hose very difficult. I noticed it when a friend with a TR noticed I had a tiny hole in the bonnet where the hose jubilee clip had been rubbing. The pipe outlet should be in the bottom position but the housing fits very happily either way around. Simon Edited May 18, 2018 by PYU940F Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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