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Thermostat gasket


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If you read here my post #52 you understand why the 1/8" advice sounds very stange to me, 3/8 seems to be reasonable.

https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/39676-thermostat/page-3

Yes a very interesting article and research.

 

I chose 1/8" (3.2mm) as it was the size Western Thompson (the thermostat maker) suggested to me as a simple air bleed for the water pump, rather than blocking the bypass completely. Your work suggest a larger hole to be of benefit.

 

The 11G176 blanking sleeve to replace the thermostats when racing has 1/8" holes in its periphery.

https://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/11G176.aspx

The BL Special tuning department offered it. The thing was originally specified for older cars that had the bellow thermostats.

 

I have a waxstat 82 degree thermostat fitted.

What I do see when starting from cold is the temp gauge in the car rises to just over 185.

Thermostat then opens and the indicated temp drops quickly. Temp drops to 165-170 (two needles width below 185)

Temp then rises back to 185 and drops again as the thermostat opens again.

After 15 mins driving - The temp indication then cycles up and down from just below 185 to 185.

 

Stant, the US thermostat maker suggest their items have a V groove in the poppet valve to allow continuous water flow.

Tridon the Australian thermostat maker suggest their thermostats have a bigger hole to allow better/improved water flow when the poppet is opened.

 

Ho Hum

 

Peter W

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Hi Folks,

just what is the problem :blink: . I use a modern stat with no blocked waterways and all is well. !! B)

 

Roger

4a has a different sized by pass so will work quite happily with a standard thermostat just as mine has for the last 25yrs.

Stuart.

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4a has a different sized by pass so will work quite happily with a standard thermostat just as mine has for the last 25yrs.

Stuart.

Yeah I know :)

that works wonderful on the TR4A and that`s why I also want to test a TR3 water pump housing.

Ciao Marco

Edited by Z320
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