Front Stub Axle Day -

[F1loco]

So decided to pull the front axles and replace with the heavy duty ones that came with the new hubs. The two hammer tricked worked well and the old ones are out - what dinky things compared to the ones that came with the aluminum hub kit. So, kit per wheel has the hub, two bearings (need to go buy a press plate to press them in, and two spacers? They are the ID of the insert where the stub axles goes through the suspension and bolts from behind but the axle clearly moves in both of them. The ID is not small as to fit the taper - so guessing they have to be spacers. Do both go on before the rotor base? Tried to play with variations but unsure and don't want to repeat this process.

 

UPDATE: bearings all pressed in and ready to assemble. Another query -How tight do I pull the back nut/washer up? I put the nut on front, tightened it down, then worked with a wrench on the back as tight as I could get it. As tight as the old one was, I can't imagine it being in place just hand tight?

 

Now I got a bigger problem - went to slide the hub/rotor and bearings on they won't go on and the back bearing is stuck right at the lip of the front of the axle?? Seems the ID of the bearing is .95" and the OD of the new stub axle is 1.0"??

 

Thanks.

 

Don

Edited April 22, 2018 by F1loco

[F1loco]

Well with some 1000 and patience, got the bearings and one wheel done. Ended up putting one washer behind and one in front behind the nut. Same OD as the inner bearing so my guess that was the plan when they made the kit. One more to go.

[Steves_TR6]

Hi

 

What kit is it you are fitting?

 

I fitted the CDD kit and it does have one spacer behind and one in front of the hub

 

My first fit saw the disk fouling the caliper, but CDD soon provided new spacers to correct this

 

So maybe build up the brakes fully by way of a test?

 

Steve

Edited April 22, 2018 by Steves_TR6

[F1loco]

Not sure of the brand - bought it from British NW Parts here in the US - out of Washington.

 

Funny you mention the brake - I think the driver side ended up "ok" but tight clearance, however the passenger side the rotor is rubbing on the caliper.

 

First two are the passenger side and last one is the driver side. Then the hub kit.

 

 

 

 

[Steves_TR6]

Looks like the inner spacers are too think.

 

The centre of the disk should ideally line up with the centre of the caliper.

 

The spacers could be machined but maybe better to measure the change in offset required and have new, thinner, inner spacers made?

 

They do look like CDD kits, but i’m no expert!

 

Steve

[F1loco]

Don't suppose you have their point of contact information? I know you said they made you up another spacer to make it work.

 

Will making the spacer smaller cause issues with making contact with the rear bearing and/or keeping the hub from rubbing the plate where the stub axles goes in due to the increased diameter? From looking at it on install, that looked to be the main reason for the spacer to begin with.

Edited April 23, 2018 by F1loco

[Steves_TR6]

Classicdrivingdevelopments.co.uk

 

There is a contacts page, person to speak with is Alastair.

 

The modified spacers worked fine for me, several years now !

 

Steve

[F1loco]

Classicdrivingdevelopments.co.uk

 

There is a contacts page, person to speak with is Alastair.

 

The modified spacers worked fine for me, several years now !

 

Steve

Great, thanks.

 

Don

[F1loco]

Question if any have used sealed bearings with the aluminum hub kits - is there still supposed to be a rear seal ring that locks the bearing into place? W/o a spacer, the bearing won't make contact, but with it, it pushes it too far forward for the calipers to hit. Not to mention it's a PITA to be sure the seal is seated correctly in the rear as it goes on and pushes to the rear.

[stuart]

Question if any have used sealed bearings with the aluminum hub kits - is there still supposed to be a rear seal ring that locks the bearing into place? W/o a spacer, the bearing won't make contact, but with it, it pushes it too far forward for the calipers to hit. Not to mention it's a PITA to be sure the seal is seated correctly in the rear as it goes on and pushes to the rear.

Some kits are better designed than others. I found the Moss kit

https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr5-6/steering-suspension/front-suspension/aluminium-hub-stub-axle-bearing-kit.html

was much better than the other available one over here which had washers as spacers which if you needed to remove the inner one to line up the caliper you struggle to get the hub off again. (very poor design.)

Stuart.

Edited May 6, 2018 by stuart

[F1loco]

That's pretty much the same one I bought here through BPNORTHWEST. Problem is w/o that washer, the bearing won't make contact and the hub will ride on the frame where the stub axles go in. But with it, hub will spin fine and bearing will rest on the washer, but it pushes the hub too far to the outside and rubs the front of the calipers. I don't see an easy work around save either grinding 2mm off the front of the calipers where the ends rub on the rotor, or grinding 2mm off the mounting holes of the caliper on the frame towards the inside - that should shift the hubs back in 2mm and give enough clearance.

 

Or possibly another set of rotors with a smaller offset?

 

Don

Edited May 6, 2018 by F1loco

[stuart]

That sounds as if the stub itself may not be correct then as I found at worst with the last moss kit I fitted I needed a shim washer on the caliper mount to bring the caliper in by about 1mm to centralise on one side and the other side caliper was perfectly centralised. Which is par for the course with original hubs.

Stuart.

Edited May 6, 2018 by stuart

[F1loco]

Thanks. I'll run up to ACE Hardware and find the right size washer to insert and hope that solves it. Just buttoned up the new sump filter and oil pan gasket - getting closer.

 

Don

Edited May 6, 2018 by F1loco

[F1loco]

Well I didn't think that through - washer on the caliper mount only pulls the front of the caliper back and tighter on the rotor. I hate to break the grinder out and grind 2mm off the mounts for the calipers but beginning to thinks that's the only way to make these things fit short of finding a rotor with a different offset. I don't think I can just that much of smaller shim on the rear of the hub as the center of the bearing won't make contact and likely walk out of the race seat.

 

Don

[F1loco]

Here's a thought, what about getting some washers to sit between the hub and the rotor? It just needs to shift back by about 2mm, so maybe 1-2 washers at most? But then I worry the center hub won't sit flush and put potential stress on the hub?

 

 

Don

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

First - Talk to your supplier -you wrote-- bought it from British NW Parts here in the US - out of Washington.

 

Send the photos and discuss the issues you have.

Do not modify, adapt, hack, grind, bend, etc. any part of the kit or your car.

 

Peter W

Edited May 7, 2018 by BlueTR3A-5EKT

[F1loco]

Gas Monkey Garage!

 

Yes, waiting on a call back from them.

 

Don

[F1loco]

Suffices to say I won't be buying from BPNorthwest.com again - sad customer service. Claims him and his source never heard of this issue when installing the hubs, but that's clearly not the case in the all the chat rooms. I may just get your guy to box some up and send them across the pond. I can't find the right ID/OD and thickness here.

[F1loco]

Well, it's been a long time coming, BUT, after a lot of calls and referrals, I finally managed to find a proper machine shop here in Florida to give the hubs a proper haircut. I am hoping tomorrow will be the day for the final install/fitment. What a nightmare it has been. Notice the lack of stepped lip which is present in the second picture. If you ever need anything milled in Florida, let me know - I got the hook up. This little shop, in a beat up looking warehouse, was absolutely state of the art inside.

 

 

[Tr4aJim]

Don,

Just my opinion, but I’d suggest using The Roadster Factory as a parts source in the US. TRF has very good prices and great support.

 

For a UK source I’d suggest Rimmer Brothers or Revington. I’ve had good experiences with both.

 

Jim

[F1loco]

Thanks. Hoping once I get the dash put back together I'll be up and running in time for the sub 90 degree weather (hopefully) here in Florida in October. Decided to knock out the replacement dash while I was at it, but alas, another Pandora's box was unleashed from the previous owner. Not sure how they did it, but one of the dash crash pads, the nut is tight, but right up against a bend in the metal frame, so no socket can get on top. Then, he "cut" his own dash, with a hole cut out, over the steering column and installed the crash pads on top of the dash which was taller than OE. So, I'll have to do some Dremmel work under the column to get it out, once I manage to loosen the last crash pad on the driver side. Nothing is simple it seems. Got to pick up a new battery as well. Opened the hood to find a massive amount of corrosion on the battery. After cleaning, I noticed the positive terminal on the battery for some reason seemed to be raised at the base and loose - most likely leading the excessive hydrogen causing the massive white mountain top across the entire top of the battery. Never seen a terminal do that in 50 years. Truly odd.

 

Don