Hawk Posted April 21, 2018 Report Share Posted April 21, 2018 As the sun was shining and I finally had a free weekend, I decided to get the TR out. By way of background, I haven't run it since January when I did 150 miles without any issues. It took a few cranks to start this morning but all was good and after a few minutes settled into a steady idle with no choke. And I went for a quick blast and then filled up with petrol. About 10 minutes after filling up with petrol, the car stalled at a set of lights but it started with no problems. Then I noticed that noticed that I had no fuel or water temp (other gauges working fine) and then a chap told me my brake lights didn't work. At this point the car also started spluttering and misfiring. And the overdrive stopped working as did the wipers. I managed to get it home (oddly it was quite happy at 60mph on minimal throttle) and have come straight to the laptop for advice. I'm guessing electrical given loss of gauges, wipers and OD but hoped somebody had experienced this and could point me in the right direction. The car is running standard fuel injection. Any ideas? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted April 21, 2018 Report Share Posted April 21, 2018 (edited) Since you have lost the brake lights and instruments but the ignition and fuel pump were still working, its possibly a fuse blown or not making proper contact . Try checking the one with the green wires going to it as that powers the circuits you have lost. If it is that you then have to find out why the fuse blew as there may be something faulty which is taking a lot of current. Do you have any test gear for electrics? At a pinch a bulb with two wires will do. Edited April 21, 2018 by RobH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hawk Posted April 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2018 (edited) Quick update. It was a blown fuse - quickly replaced with a spare 35a that was in the holder. All electrics (inc OD) all now work. BUT I still have a misfire. Literally nothing has changed since my last outing! I have now run out of time this afternoon (typical) - any ideas? It seems strange that the car ran perfectly a coupe of months ago and now is playing up? Edited April 21, 2018 by Hawk Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hawk Posted April 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2018 Another update before I sign off - alternator charging fine so no isue there. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hawk Posted April 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2018 I am an idiot with electrics I'm afraid. I have a tester and can check battery voltaga eetc but anything more than that and I would need step by step instructiuons! Since you have lost the brake lights and instruments but the ignition and fuel pump were still working, its possibly a fuse blown or not making proper contact . Try checking the one with the green wires going to it as that powers the circuits you have lost. If it is that you then have to find out why the fuse blew as there may be something faulty which is taking a lot of current. Do you have any test gear for electrics? At a pinch a bulb with two wires will do. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Austin Branson Posted April 21, 2018 Report Share Posted April 21, 2018 I would suspect the fuel. Are your injectors all spraying correctly? Austin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hawk Posted April 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2018 Hi Austin. I have no idea and would not know how to check. Can you give me an idiots guide? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted April 21, 2018 Report Share Posted April 21, 2018 As Austin says - it sounds like the misfire may not be electrical but the easy first step is to check the ignition anyway to eliminate that. Points (if not electronic), connections to the coil, condition of the rotor arm and distributor cap etc. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John L Posted April 21, 2018 Report Share Posted April 21, 2018 You can try and identify which cylinder is not working correctly by holding each injector line/pipe in turn and feeling a pulse as each injector fires, you may have to increase the revs a little to feel a pulse, as there is very little fuel being injected at idle. It could also be a lazy valve if the car has been laid up a while, perhaps a compression test would help here, or even a bad spark plug. Where about's are you located there could be a local group or person who could help you out perhaps. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted April 21, 2018 Report Share Posted April 21, 2018 Redex and an Italian Tuneup? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hawk Posted April 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2018 (edited) I'm on the Oxfordshire Warwickshire border if anyone is local and willing to help. Edited April 22, 2018 by Hawk Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted April 22, 2018 Report Share Posted April 22, 2018 I suspect that the electrical and misfiring are separate issues, it's pretty common to have a few different problems after a few months lay off. I'd suspect the fuel you filled up with. Is stale/contaminated fuel common in your area? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hawk Posted April 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2018 Never had any issues with stale or old fuel before from this station Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hawk Posted April 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2018 Update. Have just checked everything and couldn't find any obvious faults / issues so decided to road test ..... And it was perfect. Bicester Scramble here I come ???? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hawk Posted April 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2018 And another update. The TR was perfect for the first 30 miles and then I had a couple of pops and bangs but all was good until I got in the queue for Bicester Scramble. It began stumbling and then wouldn't rev over 3000 rpm or pull cleanly. And then it stalled not to be started. Have left for a bit but presume over fuelling? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted April 22, 2018 Report Share Posted April 22, 2018 Are the plugs sooty Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hawk Posted April 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2018 (edited) Aarrghhh!! this is driving me mad. Car started absolutely fine when I got back to it and drove most of the way home without issue. Then I got stuck in a bit of traffic and the problems started. It began being a bit lumpy and then refused to rev cleanly. It's back under cover again now but a quick check didn't identify any obvious problems. Not sure if it relevant but the same fuse blew again on the way home!??? Edited April 22, 2018 by Hawk Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted April 22, 2018 Report Share Posted April 22, 2018 First the fuse: Obviously there must be something taking too much current, which since the fuse does not blow immediately may be an intermittent fault like a short circuit to earth somewhere . That is going to be difficult to trace and you can really only do it by a visual inspection of any wiring running from that fuse. Its most likely to be at the ends where the wires come out of the bundle and connect to something. Can you identify what happened immediately before it blew, maybe like switching into overdrive or applying the brakes for instance? Your running problem sounds temperature-related; the symptoms you describe are like fuel vapourisation - could it be a fuel pump problem perhaps? Here are a couple of old threads on the topic: https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/4810-fuel-vapourisation/ https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/24003-overheating-fuel-pump/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hawk Posted April 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2018 Thanks Rob - agree with your comments about fuel. That really is the most obvious cause (although I once had a motorbike with similar issues that was caused by a fault coil which was only failing under load) I can't recall anything obvious causing the fuse to blow but ..... I spent a couple of hours testing everything last night and couldn't find any obvious faults but I did notice this ..... when attaching the missing connector it sounded the horn! 20180421_152702 by Peter Hawkins, on Flickr Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted April 23, 2018 Report Share Posted April 23, 2018 (edited) That is the horn relay and if you connected that purple link wire (live) to the 'spare' terminal with the purple/yellow wire ( horn ) it will sound. I'm not sure why that link is there but that may be for a different type of relay. The schematic drawing shows the relay having four terminals in which case the link is needed to connect power to the contacts for that, but your relay looks to have only three terminals with an internal connection in which case it is correct to leave the link disconnected - although it would be a good idea to cable-tie it to the others to stop it flapping around. This isn't the source of your fuse blowing as these come from a different fuse. ( There are several types of 6RA relay. Yours looks to be an SRB501 while the loom has been made up to take an SRB121. Either will work but the 501 doesn't need the link wire. ) Edited April 23, 2018 by RobH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 23, 2018 Report Share Posted April 23, 2018 (edited) Hi Hawk, attaching that loose purple wire should allow the horn to work when the button is pressed, Without that connection the horn will not work. http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr2506.pdf Does yours work with the wire disconnected??? Roger PS - just read RobH's reply. Edited April 23, 2018 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hawk Posted April 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2018 Thanks Rob - this is all very useful. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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