Front Hub Replacement

[Mark1965TR4aBRG]

Folks

 

As my gearbox is away having a refurb', I'm about to replace the standard front hubs for the CDD ones that have been sitting in my garage for nearly a year..

 

I'm also planning to change the fulcrum pins & I haven't given it any thought yet, so before I start what's the best way to go about these jobs?

 

Cheers

 

Mark

[Steves_TR6]

Hi Mark

 

I fitted the cdd hubs with the bigger stub axles a few years ago.

 

Getting the old stub axles out was interesting, one came out quite easily the other needed a 20 ton press and hammering!

 

By fulcrum pins do you mean vertical links, which would obviate the above problem?

 

The only other difficulty that i had was the spacers supplied were incorrect and caused the disk to foul the calliper, CDD promptly sent me replacements that were perfect.

 

Otherwise an easy and worthwhile job.

 

Steve

Edited April 18, 2018 by Steves_TR6

[aardvark]

I recently replaced a fulcrum pin bought from Trgb. The part was stamped TRF which I presumed was the roadster factory. Its a top quality part from what I can make out - nicely made and fitted perfectly.

[Mark1965TR4aBRG]

Hi Mark

 

I fitted the cdd hubs with the bigger stub axles a few years ago.

 

Getting the old stub axles out was interesting, one came out quite easily the other needed a 20 ton press and hammering!

 

By fulcrum pins do you mean vertical links, which would obviate the above problem?

 

The only other difficulty that i had was the spacers supplied were incorrect and caused the disk to foul the calliper, CDD promptly sent me replacements that were perfect.

 

Otherwise an easy and worthwhile job.

 

Steve

Not replacing the vertical links unless there's an issue with mine and I understand getting the stub axles out can be challenging..

[PYU940F]

Hi Mark

Getting the stub axle out of my vertical link was deemed nigh on impossible so for the sake of £20 replaced it with a new one. However, the axle from Moss was made incorrectly oversize and the bearings would not fit. Ask your supplier to check that the bearings fit.

If you are changing the fulcrum pin (bolt), unless it had previously been changed in the last 20 years it will be seized, not only in the fulcrum but in the lower outboard wishbone bushes, so change these bushes. As now all apart, worthwhile to do a complete polybush upgrade for the front suspension, not hard but a bit time consuming. It is much easier to wrestle out the fulcrum bolt on the bench rather than in situ. I got one wishbone off the bolt but ended up having to put the rest of it (one wishbone, and fulcrum) in the oven for an hour before the bolt would even turn. Again, unless fulcrum and vertical link have been changed before they are most likely to be corroded/rusty. If in doubt change them. they are pretty critical to your safety. A lot has been discussed on the site about this subject in the last few months. If you do not change the rest of the bushes you will have to slacken off the nut (nuts if modified) of the lower inboard wishbone attachment brackets in order to get the fulcrum bolt through the outer wishbone bushes as there is not enough slack in the system, unless your inboard lower wishbone bushes are completely shot in which case they should be changed anyway.

It is very difficult to do just a bit of the suspension as one thing leads to another. For instance are the lower inboard attach brackets the modified ones with two studs? Have you checked for cracks on the chassis where these brackets attach? If not then then the chassis section will be cracked on the top flat but only on the passenger side. Speak to Jeff at Moss he is an expert on this matter.

I set out a couple of months ago just to change the upper wishbone bushes but ended up doing a complete overhaul. It has transformed the car.

I knew very little about the front suspension before I started but now consider myself a bit of an expert as I cocked it up so many times before I got it correct.. Are you in the South of England as I am happy to come over one afternoon to show you how NOT to do it!! You are very welcome to use my spring compressor.

 

 

 

Good luck

Simon

[Mark1965TR4aBRG]

Hello Simon

 

I'm near Cambridge..

 

I've had the whole car in pieces at some point in the past, so like you have had the front suspension totally apart before and it is all poly bushed. I do have a spring compressor thank you - might need a new piece of studding if I recall from the last use..

 

Yes, I have the modified mounts too and thanks for the thought..,

 

Will not get to this job now for a few weeks, so I will postpone the hammering fun for a while..

 

 

Cheers

 

Mark

[F1loco]

Literally just did this last weekend. Two 3lb hammers and some well synchronized hits on both sides of the stub axle and they should pop out - well at least the passenger side went to two strokes. That said, my driver side did work the forearms a bit before letting go. Good thing I did this, as the previous owner put some crap grease in - sticky molasses mess. I do have the caliper rub issue on the passenger side and waiting for a new spacer to make the offset correct. Other than that, pretty straight forward, though I realized I should ordered a poly bushing kit and new upper ball joints while I was at. Of course, the previous owner ground down the outside bolts/nuts on the upper ball joints and fear I will need new A-frames as well for that project. There's always another weekend I suppose.

[RogerH]

Literally just did this last weekend. Two 3lb hammers and some well synchronized hits on both sides of the stub axle and they should pop out - well at least the passenger side went to two strokes. That said, my driver side did work the forearms a bit before letting go. Good thing I did this, as the previous owner put some crap grease in - sticky molasses mess. I do have the caliper rub issue on the passenger side and waiting for a new spacer to make the offset correct. Other than that, pretty straight forward, though I realized I should ordered a poly bushing kit and new upper ball joints while I was at. Of course, the previous owner ground down the outside bolts/nuts on the upper ball joints and fear I will need new A-frames as well for that project. There's always another weekend I suppose.

quite often these nuts/bolts are ground back to allow the wheel to turn fully. It shouldn't make the arms U/S

 

Roger