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TR6 TR SHOP REAR TELESCOPIC CONVERSION


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Hi,

I have just received TRaction and see that the TR Shop has a TR6 rear telescopic conversion kit for TTR6s for 174 pds. That seems a very good price for a full kit.

Has anybody used them and what do you think?

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I have dealt with the TRShop a few times and I am happy with their replies and their parts, however, this kit is just too cheap. Mine is similar to the other one (300 pds version).

A good pair of adjustable shocks already cost about 174 pds....

With such a kit, I do no think you should try to go cheap, but get the best one out there and spend the money.

Jochem

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Hi John.

 

I'm in the process of converting my car to tube shocks and have ordered the following kit from the US which should arrive any day now.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Rear-Tube-Shock-Conversion-Kit-w-KYB-Shocks-Front-Shocks-Triumph-TR6-TR4A/171373137952?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

After having read a lot on various forums about potential problems with tube shocks fitted to the TR I decided to go ahead anyway and ordered this particular kit with the intention of adding a brace down to the bottom bump stop damper mount (which become superfluous after removal of the levers). There is also the possibilty I will run a 1" diameter tube brace or similar above the diff to join both mounts together and therefore add more stiffness.

 

At this stage I'm in no position to advise on the merits or otherwise of the KYB shocks in this application, however, I have read enough positive comments to give me confidence that they will be an improvement over the leaking rear levers (one) and budget front tubes I currently have, without going overboard with adjustable Spax/Koni/GAZ etc.

 

Anyway, the following very recent comment from the Triumph Experience forum is I think extremely important advice if doing a conversion, and failure to follow this process would seem to me to be the most likely cause of the lever bracket failures (this and no brace down to the bump stop mount or chassis rail that is).

 

"Don --- I'm not an advocate of the tube shock kits offered, but I did convert when my second pair of lever shocks gave out the second time (after about 250,000 miles). Thought this would be a good time to see if the 'tubes' were what was claimed. I do believe the reason the frame cracks at the attachment point is because, unless some things are altered, the shock will bottom out when fully compressed. With the road spring removed, it's easy to physically see what hits first. We want the conical bump stop to absorb this full upward movement, not the shock. If it's the shock, it will try pulling loose where attached to the frame.

First, the new, tall, bump rubbers are in order. To give even sooner contact, a 1/8 inch spacer under the bumper 'washer' was added.
Next was moving the shock's rubber donuts around to give more stroke to the upward process. Now the bump stop makes contact at least 1/4 inch before the shock it fully compressed.


Can't speak for the path that the trailing arm takes and any negative effect on the shock motion. I'll I can say is that I've had my KYB Silvers in place for maybe 12 years and there's no sign of any frame cracking, and believe me I checked many times after hearing the stories! "

 

End of quote.

 

Gavin

NZ

Edited by KiwiTR6
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Hi John.

 

I'm in the process of converting my car to tube shocks and have ordered the following kit from the US which should arrive any day now.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Rear-Tube-Shock-Conversion-Kit-w-KYB-Shocks-Front-Shocks-Triumph-TR6-TR4A/171373137952?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

After having read a lot on various forums about potential problems with tube shocks fitted to the TR I decided to go ahead anyway and ordered this particular kit with the intention of adding a brace down to the bottom bump stop damper mount (which become superfluous after removal of the levers). There is also the possibilty I will run a 1" diameter tube brace or similar above the diff to join both mounts together and therefore add more stiffness.

 

At this stage I'm in no position to advise on the merits or otherwise of the KYB shocks in this application, however, I have read enough positive comments to give me confidence that they will be an improvement over the leaking rear levers (one) and budget front tubes I currently have, without going overboard with adjustable Spax/Koni/GAZ etc.

 

Anyway, the following very recent comment from the Triumph Experience forum is I think extremely important advice if doing a conversion, and failure to follow this process would seem to me to be the most likely cause of the lever bracket failures (this and no brace down to the bump stop mount or chassis rail that is).

 

"Don --- I'm not an advocate of the tube shock kits offered, but I did convert when my second pair of lever shocks gave out the second time (after about 250,000 miles). Thought this would be a good time to see if the 'tubes' were what was claimed. I do believe the reason the frame cracks at the attachment point is because, unless some things are altered, the shock will bottom out when fully compressed. With the road spring removed, it's easy to physically see what hits first. We want the conical bump stop to absorb this full upward movement, not the shock. If it's the shock, it will try pulling loose where attached to the frame.

First, the new, tall, bump rubbers are in order. To give even sooner contact, a 1/8 inch spacer under the bumper 'washer' was added.

Next was moving the shock's rubber donuts around to give more stroke to the upward process. Now the bump stop makes contact at least 1/4 inch before the shock it fully compressed.

Can't speak for the path that the trailing arm takes and any negative effect on the shock motion. I'll I can say is that I've had my KYB Silvers in place for maybe 12 years and there's no sign of any frame cracking, and believe me I checked many times after hearing the stories! "

 

Gavin

NZ

Hi Gavin! Is there any chance of a photo of your install? thanks,

 

Bruce.

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I bought a used set off BSTrade, here on the forum they are a TR Shop set and they work very well.

 

Lever arm shocks are about as good as a chariot at Le Mans.{ but only my opinion}

 

I'm very pleased with them, well designed and they WORK

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Hi Gavin! Is there any chance of a photo of your install? thanks,

 

Bruce.

 

Hi Bruce. Yes, I'll definitely 'be posting some photos although it will be a few weeks away yet. The kit was in customs late last week so hoping to make a start next weekend.

 

Gavin

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With the telescopic shock absorbers my TR4A run like a wooden chariot in a stone quarry.

Very rough and uncomfortabel, I had to avoid every gully cover and sleeping policeman.

The reconditioned levers from "Peter" are much more comfortable.

 

Perhaps a matter of the absorbers, my TR4A came with Koni # 80 2167,

Google says they are for Mercury Bobcat / Ford Pinto.

 

Could anyone be so kind and check whats stamped on actual sold "suitabel" Koni.

The old brackets and Koni absorbers are still in my workshop.

 

Ciao Marco

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Were they adjustable Koni's Marco?

 

If set too stiff you will get a horrible ride but that's not because they are telescopics.

 

The thing to watch out for with any of the telescopic set ups is that when the spring is fully compressed the force is taken by the bump stops and isn't put through the shock absorber and with it the risk of a broken trailing arm.

 

The best way is to jack the rear of the car up, remove the spring and check that the bump stop takes the load and not the shocker.

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Could anyone be so kind and check whats stamped on actual sold "suitabel" Koni.

Ciao Marco

 

 

 

Is this what you are looking for?

80A "1784" is the identification number for the Triumph suitable KONI shock.

The softest setting is good for regular road driving.

 

Cheers

Walt

post-13442-0-20435200-1523879320_thumb.jpg

post-13442-0-01694700-1523879334_thumb.jpg

Edited by Sapphire72
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Hi Andy,

 

I checked all of that and everything was "OK", but too stiff - but perhaps I check twice next winter.

 

Hi Walt,

 

thank you but sorry, the shock absorbers on your photos do not fit the IRS.

 

Ciao Marco

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Spring choice is also important. If you run lowered, uprated springs, you may need a different shock than would be the case with standard springs.

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Hi Walt,

 

thank you but sorry, the shock absorbers on your photos do not fit the IRS.

 

Ciao Marco

 

 

 

Marco

The part number I gave was for the front shock absorber, sorry.

For the rear Type 1 conversion kit, check out this Koni Shock number: 821389

Walt

 

 

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For the CTM conversion the Koni ref. is 80-2119. They are quite short. I'm not sure if they would fit any other suppliers's conversions.

 

 

Andrew

 

Yes, I think Colin's brackets are designed for use with lowered springs.

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Stick to original lever arms thats what the car was designed with and they work when in ship shape.

 

Other mods are seen are telescopic shocks bolted to the body which is dreadful, or a funny lever arm number off the chassis that connects to the top of the telescopic shock.

 

Neither work very well and they look awful !

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Hi Gavin! Is there any chance of a photo of your install? thanks,

 

Bruce.

 

Hi Bruce.

 

I've finished the install today and I'm quite happy with the outcome. The bracket as purchased fitted on the kerb side without any clearance issues, however on the offside I had to trim the inner guard for clearance so that the bolt holes would align. After considering various options I ended up fabricating braces to the chassis bump stop mounts out of some 25 x 25 x 3mm angle and small pieces of 6mm plate. These were tacked in place on the vehicle and then fully welded on the bench, cleaned up, painted and fitted in place with pieces of thin closed-cell foam between the bracket faces and inner guards.

 

The shocks were then dummy fitted with the springs removed to check for bottoming out. With the wheels lifted as high as the bump stops would allow (using my transmission jack under the trailing arms until each corner of the car in turn was lifted off the hoist arms) the shocks were virtually at full compression and probably OK. However, to play safe I turned up a couple of 6mm thick alloy spacers and placed these under the bump stops giving several mm of available stroke at full compression.

 

The following photos will give a clearer picture of what I've done.

 

post-14246-0-10504800-1524898916_thumb.jpgpost-14246-0-77100100-1524898932_thumb.jpgpost-14246-0-61256400-1524898949_thumb.jpgpost-14246-0-72476200-1524898966_thumb.jpgpost-14246-0-95047600-1524898979_thumb.jpgpost-14246-0-13869900-1524898991_thumb.jpg

 

Hope this helps anyone else looking to do the same :rolleyes:

 

Gavin

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I must say that 30% upgraded and reconditioned lever arm dampers give a cracking ride in my TR6. Beautifully damped and comfortable. I suppose if you’re planning on track days or competition stuff you might consider something different, but for pretty much any road conditions I have experienced, they are spot on. JMHO you understand.

 

simon

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