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Cobra 8510 Immobiliser fitting


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Hello

Has anyone had a Cobra 8510 immobiliser fitted to their TR4a ? I could use some help regarding connecting it up.
The basing wiring looks fairly straightforward (!) and I can see how to connect the immobiliser No1 to the ignition.
But the Cobra 8510 has immobiliser No2 wires, which I assume would be used for an electric fuel pump.
My TR4a still has the mechanical fuel pump, so I am not sure what to do with the Immobiliser No2 wires.
Any suggestions?
So far I think my options are:
1. Fit an Fuel cut off switch upstream to the fuel pump and connect up to the Immobilizer No2
2. Use the immobiliser No2 to ensure the headlights cannot be left on when the ignition is off, not sure if the max 10amp would safely support this option.
3. Leave unconnected, in which case do I connect the Immobiliser No2 together or leave unconnected?
Appreciate any comments or suggestions as to how other people have connected the immobiliser up.
Attached is a wiring diagram - just for reference

post-10005-0-64760900-1523386039_thumb.jpg

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1 - That will work

2 - 10A is a bit marginal for headlight main beam as 2 X 60 watts at 12V is 10A, The actual voltage could be 13.8V in which case the lights will draw >11A. You could use this output to power a relay which switches the lights though.

3 - Supposing this output is a volt-free contact you could either leave it open or short them together. The diagram is a little odd - what do the scissors represent I wonder -are those wires connected together initially?

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Hi Martin,

 

If you have the standard ignition system then an immobiliser is easy to by-pass, so an additional fuel inline switch would seem to be a good idea. I think incorporating your high current headlights into an alarm system is asking for trouble, yes you could use headlight relays but seems a lot of effort for not much gain. If you find that you leave your lights on (very easy to do with a TR6 as I know only too well) perhaps installing an interior light on your 4A if you don't have one already and linking the door contacts up to a 'light on' buzzer alarm as per modern cars would be a better answer.

If you don't use immobiliser No2 then it would appear that you just need to insulate the wires.

 

Regards,

 

John

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