RogerH Posted April 9, 2018 Report Share Posted April 9, 2018 Hi Folks, starting last week I have been putting a Redex type additive in my petrol (I don;t know why !!!). I filled up on Tuesday last week and added the stuff. The following evening I left my house and apprx 30 minutes or so driving on the M3 the engine started to misfire very badly. After 20 or 30 seconds it all cleared and drove happily. On Friday I drove up to Chesterfield for the TRR Spring Ball and after 30 minutes or so it misfired badly again and then cleared. This also happened on the Saturday - exactly the same condition - 1st start of the day after a nights lay up and the 30 minutes or so it misfires. Coming home on the Sunday it happened again but took a little longer to start to misfired. Once the misfired clears it runs very well. However for the Sunday afternoon we took a diversion through North Norfolk. All going well.. We turned off the main A149 coast road to divert inland and head home and the misfired returned - with a vengeance Dead. we were pointing up hill. So I rolled back down the road into a driveway. The front of the car was now sloping downwards. I waggled a few things and the engine started - you can't beat a good waggle. However about 400yds up the road - a very narrow road - it stopped again. Roll back again to a wider part of road. Replace coil - nothing. Remove fuel pipe to carb - nothing Something like this happened a long time ago but I thought I had done a permanent fix. Remove top of fuel pump and there was one of the NRV's sitting on the diaphragm. Repro pump, with ill fitting NRv's. I had peened the hole to keep the valve in place and then attached a washer to keep the valve from dropping - apparently that was a waste of time. Thankfully because I had found the 'no fuel' clue quite quickly I was able to sort the problem fairly easily. However I had to do the repair one handed as the other hand was blocking the fuel pipe from the tank So - was the previous misfire to do with the additive settling out overnight OR was the valve somehow dropping down and then being sucked back into place (surely not). This morning I shall repair the pump once and for all (where's the hammer) and then do a test on the additive to see if it settles. I shall also carry a length of flexible piping to stop the fuel coming out of the disconnected fuel pipe. It never ends. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted April 9, 2018 Report Share Posted April 9, 2018 Some people never learn! Why use an additive without knowing what to expect from it? Why use a repro pump when you can get a properly refurbished one from Dave Davis? Why not carry a hose clamp to use on the flexi-pipe inlet to the pump (or anywhere else in an emergency)? The hammer is a good idea though Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted April 9, 2018 Report Share Posted April 9, 2018 Please keep us posted on your progress Roger ~ Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2018 Some people never learn! Why use an additive without knowing what to expect from it? I was being kind to the engine Why use a repro pump when you can get a properly refurbished one from Dave Davis? I was being mean and cheap Why not carry a hose clamp to use on the flexi-pipe inlet to the pump (or anywhere else in an emergency)? I was being stupid The hammer is a good idea though I thought so as well Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted April 9, 2018 Report Share Posted April 9, 2018 Brian can you please elaborate on what the hammer is to be used for...... Iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morrison Posted April 9, 2018 Report Share Posted April 9, 2018 Hi Roger I always screw a 5/16th bolt into an exposed fuel pipe, works a treat. John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted April 9, 2018 Report Share Posted April 9, 2018 I just turn off the tap Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2018 Hi Roger I always screw a 5/16th bolt into an exposed fuel pipe, works a treat. John. Hi John, I have metal pipes at the pump. Hi Bob, good idea. I stick my finger over the spout. - now looking for a stopcock. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2018 I think I now have a proper fix for the falling out valve. I have made a very fancy plate that covers both valve to stop them dropping down. The plate has suitable holes to allow the fuel to flow. Now, what about the additive !!! Could it possibly come out of solution from the petrol and flow to the carbs as a plug of stuff. It is sold as two stroke oil but looks very much like DTD585 aircraft hydraulic fluid (mineral oil) I use a 0.1% dilution. Now the carbs are sorted I think I will fill up again thius week and stick more additive in and see if it repeats itself. Very odd. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rod1883 Posted April 9, 2018 Report Share Posted April 9, 2018 The redex possibly dissolved the gum/gunge that was holding the NRV in place? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted April 9, 2018 Report Share Posted April 9, 2018 I like Redex Roger. Just for fun i added some to a fresh tank of fuel on my 6 last summer, when i knew i would soon be leaving the car unused for a week or two, reasoning that the redex would have a good chance to do its work on any accumulated deposits. Never had any problems with engine after adding the redex, and i believe i can feel better pickup and I call this a success! Also use fuel treatment on diesel engines to help clean the system and on Amita to combat any water in the fuel. Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ChrisR-4A Posted April 9, 2018 Report Share Posted April 9, 2018 (edited) Roger, you should know better by now. Does your metal pipe go all the way to tank, no rubber joint. No mole grip in toolkit? Re additive, if it ain't broke don't fix it! Good weekend at Chesterfield Ball, how many of those onesies have they still got? We started Sunday with hood down but rain by 12.00 and then it never stopped until well into Essex. Chris Edited April 9, 2018 by potts4a Quote Link to post Share on other sites
littlejim Posted April 9, 2018 Report Share Posted April 9, 2018 Crud in bottom of tank, moves around when and where it likes. (Personal experience.) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2018 Hi LJ, I had thought of that but the timing didn;t really fit. Finding the pump NRV adrift threw a spanner in the works. I'll check out the additive with some more tests. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DaveN Posted April 10, 2018 Report Share Posted April 10, 2018 Stuff like Redex has been used for donkeys years and also it’s well diluted. So I’d say it would never give a problem. At the last winter shutdown just before killing the ignition I slung in two bottles of that millers stuff..( engine running to ensure some got through the system). No problems with the first start of the spring... in fact I was surprised it started so easily having only charged the battery for 20 mins or so. Um... considered changing the mechanical pump for something like a Facet electric job? After all you can’t be a stickler for originality when you use kitchen lights for reversing lights! Nought wrong with DTD585 either...tis what we used to use for a liquid decoke! Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2018 Hi Dave, I have been having deep thunks about the additive gathering in the sump and sending a plug of stuff to the carbs and have come to the conclusion I was grabbing at straws before I had all the evidence. The tank would be less than 1/2 full on the 1st start of the day so the concentration would be very low indeed. It must have been the NRV's. Anyway I shall take for a drive today and see what is happening. Kitchen lights my foot. They are Hi-Tech Halogen super bulbs (that can be used in kitchens) Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2018 Hi Folks, I did a trial run today with 40Ltr of Sainsbury Super petrol + 40mL of Faher two stroke oil (put in yesterday) and it went event free. So the coughing and spluttering was down to one of the two NRV's dropping out. The daft question now is if it dropped out to cause fuel starvation how the heck did it go back in to allow the engine to run properly for many many miles - until the last event. Most odd. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul J Posted April 11, 2018 Report Share Posted April 11, 2018 Hi Folks, I did a trial run today with 40Ltr of Sainsbury Super petrol + 40mL of Faher two stroke oil (put in yesterday) and it went event free. So the coughing and spluttering was down to one of the two NRV's dropping out. The daft question now is if it dropped out to cause fuel starvation how the heck did it go back in to allow the engine to run properly for many many miles - until the last event. Most odd. Roger Which valve was it Roger sucker or pressure. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2018 Hi Paul, it was the one towards the rear of the car. I think that is the one feeding the carbs. I see it coming out again as I have put a fancy plate over the two NRV's with a 2.5mm screw holding it in place. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Charlie D Posted April 11, 2018 Report Share Posted April 11, 2018 Roger, I think that the original pumps had a metal plate to hold the valves in. Later ones were just peened, I guess to save a couple of bob. In my box labled "Pumps" Ive seen both types. Charlie. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2018 Hi Charlie, I still have the original pump that came with the car in 1991. I dig it out and see what that has. I'll probably get it rebuilt and use as a spare. A simply push in valve always has the chance of vibrating out. The plate will stop that. Better still would be to have the valve with an external thread that could screw into the body - Hmm daft idea coming long. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john.r.davies Posted April 11, 2018 Report Share Posted April 11, 2018 Roger, "how the heck did it go back in to allow the engine to run properly for many many miles - until the last event. Most odd." Perhaps you need to recruit the Snitchers, or whatever elves inhabit your garage and hitch rides in your car, or else the crew that Peter is assembling: http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/65693-only-a-matter-of-time/&do=findComment&comment=577987 The Truth Is Out There! John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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