Agrace Posted April 8, 2018 Report Share Posted April 8, 2018 I've assembled the engine after reconditioning the head. In the process I've: Installed a Revotec fan New electronic dizzy and new plug leads Moved the new coil from the fender to the block. I've swung her over and got oil pressure. Tried to start her but no luck. Plugs are wet, so it looks like no spark. With the old mechanical dizzy, wiring was easy. Pos feed to the pos coil, wire from neg coil to dizzy. Now the dizzy has a neg and pos. Does the dizzy positive go to the coil pos? Thanks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Agrace Posted April 8, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2018 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted April 8, 2018 Report Share Posted April 8, 2018 What sort of distributor is it? Did it come with any wiring instructions? The polarity of the coil does have an effect but if its wrong it won't stop the ignition working, however some electronic systems need coils of a higher resistance (see attached) so check you have the right type. http://www.accuspark.co.uk/fitting_guide.html Its likely that the dizzy positive wire should go direct to +12v and the other wire to coil negative. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Agrace Posted April 8, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2018 It's an H&H dizzy with matching coil. Just read up the instructions and it confirms, pos to pos coil, neg to neg coil. Back to the drawing board. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bobble Posted April 8, 2018 Report Share Posted April 8, 2018 Andrew I had the same problem when I fitted electronic ignition and a new coil to my restored 4A. I tried everything, including reverting back to points, without success. To cut a long story short my car is now running great with electronic ignition, new coil, alternator conversion, plugs, leads, distributor cap, etc. The real issue - a small crack in the original rotor arm. I hope that your problem has an equally simple solution (without the time I wasted before doing the obvious). A new cap and rotor arm are cheap and a often good starting point. Can't comment on wiring to the coil as I don't know what make of electronic ignition you fitted - some use original connections and others have a small alloy power module that needs to be connected between the distributor and the coil's negaive terminal. I fited a Pertronix (magnetic) system to my 4A but a Lumenition (optronic with power module) to my MGB. Both have proved to be effective and reliable. Good luck Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Agrace Posted April 8, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2018 Many Thanks. Success. I managed to get a spark. Now just need to trailer it down to the local exhaust place to make a connector between the new Phoenix manifold and old twin system. Don't want to fire it up and wake up the whole neighbourhood. Can't wait to get it up and running. It's been a long Winter. Regards Andrew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark1965TR4aBRG Posted April 12, 2018 Report Share Posted April 12, 2018 "Moved the new coil from the fender to the block" Shouldn't it be the other way round? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted April 12, 2018 Report Share Posted April 12, 2018 What is doing on a guitar anyway ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Agrace Posted April 13, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2018 Is that a bad idea? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 13, 2018 Report Share Posted April 13, 2018 Hi Andrew, the coil may survive better if it was mounted on the wheel arch or there abouts. Attaching it to the block will make it run hot. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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