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Hubs, driveshafts & UJ’s - choices choices !?


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Hi all,

 

After 44 years (the car that is.. Ive done more!) I think its time to review the driveshafts and hubs on my TR6.. especially as I get various rear end noises, clicking, the odd (small) clonk on taking up drive etc.. and when I investigated the driveshafts there is definite play in the sliding joint..

 

Ive also read various alarming stories about hub failure, and I dont fancy the consequences!

 

The question is... what option to go for..

 

The car isnt used hard.. no track days etc.. just regular driving, with the occasional overtaking of the slower traffic ???? :-)

 

Im also not keen, from what Ive read, to go for Recon hubs..

 

I know there are CV upgraded options, but my use doesnt seem to justify the additional expense..

 

I was considering new hubs (as original) or upgraded ones.

And either new (as original) driveshafts, or upgraded ones..

 

But Im not sure if you can do a mix and match with these?

 

E.g. upgraded Hub, with standard replacement driveshafts?

 

Also.. what UJs would I need..?

 

Any advice from those that have been through this before would be very halpful..

 

Many thanks in advance..

 

Richard

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Richard

 

I've spent a lot of time researching this subject - you will find that replacing your existing set up on a like for like basis will be not a lot different in cost terms to a CV jointed set up from some of the regular specialists, if you go for new kit ( which personally I would recommend over reconditioned hubs)

 

To replace your current set up with upgraded/uprated driveshafts and hubs will cost you a lot more than the CV jointed equivalents - seems daft I know, but that's so people can stick to a standard looking set up but want something better than standard, apparently!

 

PM me if you want more info

cheers

Rich

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Hi Richie,

the original Standard TRiumph hubs lasted a considerably long time. I would replace with a similar NEW item (Both Moss and Bastuck do these).

 

DO NOT use recon hubs unless it can be conformed that the shaft has been replaced.

Duff bearings just make a noise a duff stub axle will allow the wheel and the brakes to disappear.

 

If you stick with the standard hub the get new drive shafts from https://www.yell.com/biz/proptech-ltd-kidderminster-7183165/(I think Moss use these people)

 

The updated form of the standard hub uses an ali body - time will tell if any differential expansion will or will not cause a problem.

 

CV shafts appear to work OK

 

Roger

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Hi Neil,

Original hubs are now 40 - 50 years old.

 

They may or may not have been rebuilt previously

 

Replacing the bearings and seals simply give it a face lift. The stub axle will still be 40 - 50 years old if it is not replaced with a new stub axle.

 

Over the last few years there have been a fair number of failures - AND it wasn't the rubber seal but the broken 40 - 50 year old axle that parted company.

 

If you are happy to use rebuilt hubs with the original stub axle then fine, but it will be just a matter of time when you will be driving a three wheeler.

 

 

If it does not have a new stub axle then it is not fit for purpose because it is an unknown quantity.

 

Roger

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Why do you doubt it.

 

The vulnerable item - the stub axle - is machined in the UK by a respected engineering workshop that does Aston/Jag/ etc etc. using the correct materials and treatment.

 

But time will indeed tell.

 

Roger

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Hi gents,

 

Many thanks for all of your replies. Much appreciated.

 

I’ll look into those prices at the suppliers mentioned, and I’m quite certain I will only be buying new rather than reconditioned.

More than likely I will opt for the ‘standard’ setup, since it has worked ok for over 40 years, which will do for me!

 

Thanks for the help all..

 

Regards,

 

Richard

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