Ignition light on

[Richardtr3a]

Hi Hamish,

 

I once drove home , 6 miles, at night with the red light on. I thought that it was the dynamo. However next day it turned out to be the RB106/2 regulator which needed only a flip with a light finger and it worked again. However the wiring from the dynamo had been cooked. I did not want to replace the loom so I chopped off the cables at each end and fitted an independent loom to connect the dynamo to a reconditioned regulator. It has been OK for a long time but I keep a reconditioned regulator in the boot.

 

This year I am upgrading to a solid state regulator inside the original casing.

 

Good luck Richard

[Don H.]

I regularly pass a piece of paperboard between the contacts on my (original) regulator to, in theory, prevent oxidation from closing or opening the contacts. I blow out any dust too, with a can of Dust Off. Those old regulators work surprisingly well, but they are in the end electro-mechanical.

 

Who makes solid state original-looking regulators now, Richard? There was a Mister Geppetto who used to make them in the US, but he died and I don't think anyone continued his cottage shop business.

[Lebro]

Don.

I bought mine from here: (for the 6V AeroMinx)

 

http://www.dynamoregulatorconversions.com/

 

Bob.

[Z320]

Hi Richard,

sorry me for that question:

you closed the contact of the cut-off manual while the engine / dynamo was not running?

Saluti Marco

Edited April 10, 2018 by Z320

[RobH]

Hi Richard,

sorry me for that question:

you closed the contact of the cut-off manual while the engine / dynamo was not running?

Saluti Marco

 

Not a good plan if he did. Doing that passes a very heavy current from the battery direct into the dynamo even if the ignition is turned off. Not nice for either the loom, the armature, the regulator or the ammeter and on the TR it is not a fused circuit so some damage is virtually certain. You shouldn't fiddle with the regulator contacts unless the battery has first been disconnected - and then only if you really know what you are doing.

 

(Not suggesting that you did do that Richard - just pointing out the dangers)

Edited April 10, 2018 by RobH

[Z320]

 

Not a good plan if he did. Doing that passes a very heavy current from the battery direct into the dynamo even if the ignition is turned off.

Yeah, I know.

 

That would be exactly the opposite of that what the cut-off is made for - and would explain the whyever cooked wiring.

 

But I wanted to ask polite....

 

 

.

Edited April 10, 2018 by Z320

[Hamish]

Hi

 

 

Finally got round to looking at the dynamo (work gets in the way)

 

stripped carbs manifold out and got dynamo out

Found the rear of the mounting bracket broken so need another of these to put it all back.

I had ordered a dynamo service kit so have new bearing and brushes etc.

 

I just dont know what Im doing electrically ?!????

 

I cant run the car to test.

I can spin the dynamo with a drill

 

But I dont know what Im testing, connecting too or what result Im looking for on what setting of a digital multi meter. !!

 

I know some will say why am I messing then. But I try and look after my car and on a tight budget.

 

Electrics just baffles me

 

I have tried some of the tests suggested and the wires have continuity is no ohms reading.

 

Connecting the D terminal on the dynamo to + multi meter and - to body of dynamo and spin with a drill I get 0.42 set on V - - - 20

 

If a connect F and D together and contact the + multi meter to this bridge and the - to the body of the dynamo I get 6.6 v on same setting

 

Any ideas to help me.

I dread putting it all back inc carbs/ manifold etc just to find out it still knackered.

 

Ta

H

 

https://www.howacarworks.com/electrical-systems/testing-a-dynamo-and-checking-output

 

Looking at this my guess is field coils problem. But cant simulate many rpm with a little hand drill on dynamo ?!???!!

Edited April 15, 2018 by Hamish

[Don H.]

There are still old skool auto electric shops here in the US (although not many!) A buddy of mine brought my dynamo to the guy he's had work on his TRs for decades, and he did a full rehab, including machining some parts that I'd never have been able to do here at home.

 

Given the craft suppliers to the classic car hobby seem to be stronger in the UK, I'm *sure* there are multiple shops that could get your dynamo back in condition, Hamish. I'm betting that's a good use of your budget for and would provide the most security for you going forward.

 

I'm sure folks on here will have multiple recommendations of shops you could consider.

[RobH]

It sounds as though the dynamo may be OK Hamish.

You got very low output with the field disconnected - which is exactly what you would expect.

With the field connected there was some output, showing that the field coil is working as it should but the voltage you get will depend on how fast you can turn the shaft. Don't forget that the dynamo output only exceeds 12v at the speed where the ignition light normally goes out - so if your test speed is a lot lower than that the 6.6v output you saw may well be correct.

[Lebro]

+1 I agree with Rob, it sounds like dynamo is OK, so I would suspect dirty contacts in the voltage regulator.

 

Bob.

[Hamish]

The readings I get today are after I have had a go at fixing dynamo with the kit thus new bushes (not that the old ones were badly worn !) new bearing cleaned commutator inc grooves cleaned out. (They looked ok)

 

So hoping strip clean and replace may have done something.

 

Pic of broken bracket

And of all carbs etc removed to get to dynamo

Edited April 15, 2018 by Hamish

[Richardtr3a]

My bracket broke in just the same way. My welder mended it and fitted a triangular plate horizontally to support it so that there would be no repetition. It has been OK for years.

 

Good luck.

 

Richard

[Graham Harris]

Make sure you put plenty of gasket goo on the bolts when you refit the bracket, they go into the crank case so will leak oil if you dont seal them

 

Graham

[Hamish]

Make sure you put plenty of gasket goo on the bolts when you refit the bracket, they go into the crank case so will leak oil if you dont seal them

 

Graham

 

Great tip thank you

H

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

I had a couple of these brackets powder coated recently. Assuming I can find one do you want one? I welded a washer each end to repair the egg shaped dynamo bolt mounting holes.

 

 

 

PM Me

Peter W

Edited October 25, 2019 by BlueTR3A-5EKT

[Hamish]

Peter you have PM

[Hamish]

Hi all

Thought I would give an update.

Fitted a new dynamo bracket and for £50 fitted new dynamo (TR Bitz is local

Edited April 20, 2018 by Hamish

[brenda]

Great job well done, hope to see you on the Redrose drive it day Sunday. Macclesfield 10 am. Let’s hope for good weather.

 

Mike

Redrose group