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Tenax Windscreen Fittings (late / early)


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Hi guys

Following a recent soaking, I've decided the time has come to get the soft top fitted to the car.

 

I have the soft top and also have LTD fittings and 10no. new Tenax fittings (male and female) for the screen top.

 

The existing male Tenax's on the car are much smaller than the new ones I bought a few years ago (from Rod on here). See photo below. Can someone explain the difference? The car is a post 60k model so i thought it should have the larger Tenax fittings? Photo of old and new is attached.

 

I presume that to fit the new studs, all i need to do is cut down the threaded portion so it doesn't crack the screen? I have checked the thread, and it is correct, and screws a long way in before contacting the screen, certainly much further than the smaller Tenax.

 

TIA

post-11403-0-26131300-1522627057_thumb.jpg

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I would for sure cut the threads, even if you had one pass the edge of the glass, next one might not and you just need to touch the edge of the glass to crack the windscreen. I cracked a windscreen with a thread just .5 mm to long

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THanks for the input guys, but still looking for some background info so i can understand the choices to be made rather than just being told what choices to make.

 

I believe that cars up to TS5513 had 'baby' Tenax fasteners. Cars after that had 'Standard' Tenax fasteners. True or False?

 

From the photo, is it possible to tell if the smaller Tenax in the photo is a baby one from an early car? My car is TS72xxx so much later.

 

SImilarly, does the larger, newer Tenax stud in the photo look like a 'Standard' item from TS5514 +?

 

Finally - what material is the original screen frame? If it is not aluminium as i suspect, then the suitability of the linked fittings to aluminium doesn't come into the equation.

 

Thanks again and looking forward to some pearls of wisdom...

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The small Tenax are very small indeed and cant be mistaken for the later type. What you have in the picture is the original standard Tenax stud as fitted from new, the new one next to it is the repro type generally available now. The link to the TRF ones show the difference between theirs and the ones available over here. So if you want to be "Correct" then buy the TRF ones.

The screen frame will be chrome on brass and when fitting new studs be very careful and check with a depth gauge each one and cut the studs down to suit otherwise you will break the glass. Also if you are going to use the above illustrated new stud do be aware that the thread doesnt go all the way to the end so it may sit slightly proud. Be very careful when fitting the studs anyway as there is minimal thread in the frame.

Stuart.

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I have recently swapped my LTD studs on the screen for Tenax (the pointed modern type) I also found that they could not be screwed all the way down as the thread does not go all the way up. I fitted a small (M4 I think) Stainless washer under the head, & shortened the studs to suit.

 

Bob.

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Another thing to note with those pointed Tenax and the new repro Tenax receivers is they dont grip too well unless you make sure that the catch is pulled back fully.

Stuart.

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Stuart -

 

What I really wanted to know is - I know the top part

of the small tenax fasteners is (obviously) smaller,

BUT

Is the windscreen fitting smaller as well?

My suspicion is NOT - but I wasn't going to open

my big mouth just to have you put me straight!

 

AlanR

Edited by TR 2100
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Tom,

 

The tenax fastener comes in two parts - the fitting in the

windscreen and the fitting in the hood.

 

I know the fitting in the hood came in two (external) sizes,

(the small early ones and the later, more usual, larger ones)

but I was wondering if the internals were the same (so same

size fitting in the windscreen) or different.

Hope that is clear.

 

My vague recollection is that the internals of the small tenax

was the same as the larger tenax.

But - I really don't know for sure. Hence my question to Stuart.

 

AlanR

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The internal dimensions of a baby Tenax button and a standard Tenax button are different.

A standard Tenax button will be a very loose fit on a baby Tenax stud, but a baby button will not accept a standard stud.

 

Ken

 

And as Ken notes, this is the whole problem with baby Tenax, of course. If a tiny stud would fit in a standard button there would been hens-teeth hunting for original parts. I believe the tooling costs for baby Tenax buttons has been what's kept modern production from coming to market.

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Does anyone have the dimensions of a baby Tenax stud? I have some small (round not pointed) Tenax from some early windscreens which may or may not be babies.

I guess it's worth trying one with a standard button.

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Hi Ken

I have some medium sized Tenax, the head is slightly larger than the small Tenax but they take the male part of the large Tenax. Where do they fit in the great scheme of TR weather proofing?

Cheers

Richard

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  • 6 months later...

Off at an angle here....

LOXX make a thing that looks quite like a baby Tenax.  They state the thing will not fit made in England Tenax, so clearly the ball of the peg is metric rather than imperial sized.

Any one had one in their hand and tried it?

Link to Australian seller of the fastener with image of small headed fastener.    https://www.classicfasteners.com.au/loxx

LOXX USA  https://loxxfastenersusa.com/

LOXX maker in Germany seem not to mention this small headed version.  https://www.loxx-products.com/live/marine-saltwater-proof-stainless-steel-snap-fastener/marine.aspx

The challenge will be the peg and ball fitted to the windscreen, the body ones can easily be accommodated if metric.

Keep us updated please as there are a few early TR2 owners seeking these things.

Peter W

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Direct links here

https://www.classicfasteners.com.au/loxx

https://loxxfastenersusa.com/

https://www.loxx-products.com/live/marine-saltwater-proof-stainless-steel-snap-fastener/marine.aspx

Years ago I had a German made hood for a 3a that had those type of fasteners and they knocked the standard Tenax into a cocked hat.

Stuart.

 

Hood detail 005.jpg

Hood detail 001.jpg

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3 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

 

The challenge will be the peg and ball fitted to the windscreen, the body ones can easily be accommodated if metric.

Peter W

Should be easy, choose the M5 version, & run an M5 tap into the screen - it's the same tpi as 2BA just a tad bigger in dia.

then cut the thread length down to to suit the depth available in the screen frame.

 

Bob.

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