Jump to content
TimC

Factory hard top fitting tips

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone

 

I recently acquired a nice factory hard top for my 71 TR6 - it's complete and in reasonable condition (will need a respray at some point) but was a bit of a struggle to get on the car and the fit is ok but not perfect.

 

Anyone got any tips for improving the fit or attaching the hard top - or am I expecting too much for a 45+ year old car.

 

Not sure how far to go in tightening front fixing nuts (is there a danger of damaging roof?)

 

Rear nuts are not fully bolted down but are very tight and so concerned about continuing to tighten - there's also an adjusting nut on the rear fixings but not sure what these are for?

 

Haven't fixed the side fixings yet as the original hood frame bolts used are not long enough to go through hard top brackets as well so have ordered new longer ones - but would it be better to remove the hood frame completely to better see if there is anything fouling the hard top fit (despite original instructions saying you can leave the hood frame in place)?

 

Any insights/advice appreciated.

 

cheers

 

Tim

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I always removed the hood frame when I was fitting the hardtop for the winter. It's easier to fit the hardtop and it gives much more space behind the seats.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Aren’t there crush tubes at the front to prevent damage? Mine just tighten down to a sensible torque with no problem. They do go at a weird angle though because of the shape of the front of the hard top. You can use the adjusting nuts at the rear to set the clearance at the rear deck. I’ve made a hoist for the garage to make removal and fitting a one man job. It will also store the hard top when not fitted. Hard tops transform the car but it’s still coming off when eventually the sun shines. JJC

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Trick I used was to make some blind studs (e.g. Bolts with the head cut off.

Put them into the front of the hard top and the rear deck. They help guide the hardtop into position. Then replace each one by one with the bolts..

Cheers

Tim

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Be careful if the front fixing bolts are not original . If they are too long they can dent the top .All six bolts need to be tight to notice the rigidity benefits. The rubber spacers might need slight spacing for a nice fit just off the deck . Use clear protector on deck to stop possible paint marking. The top can bind on the rear interior trim if sitting slightly to far back. With the frame removed less clutter in the way to observe how it’s sitting .Hood & frame can stay in the car & can look neater with corrrect hood bag but you don’t gain any space . Chris

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

And make sure the rubber stops that go behind the cockpit are soft. Otherwise you end up with a circular wear mark.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cheers all - some useful info there. Have purchased new rubber stops and front bolts so that should help there. Have already scratched the paintwork doing the initial fit so want to avoid any further issues.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.