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Changing dashboard on TR6


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Just about to replace my dashboard with a lovely burr elm one and cappings purchased at the Stonleigh show. How easy is it and are there any tips anyone can give me? I am considering changing the bulbs to LED to properly illuminate the instruments. Has anyone any experience of these bulbs and what is their longevity?post-15435-0-52252300-1521792612_thumb.jpeg

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A few thoughts, sorry if I'm stating the obvious;

Disconnect the battery !

Dash facia removal its self is fairly straightforward

if upgrading to led lamps be careful when fitting them that you have sufficient space between the end of the lamp and the plastic lamp shroud fitted inside the gauge. I got a bit enthusiastic with the ones for the tacho broke one off and only found out when it was all back together and the tacho jammed at 2000 rpm.

You will also need to change the rheostat if you want to retain the dimmer function.

When fitting the cubby box stay be VERY careful that the screws don't burst the lacquer on the front of the dash, the original screws are different lengths and if you use a long one when you need a short one, then you'll have a problem.

Take time to get the shut on the glovebox lid correct.

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Removing the dash board is a tad more difficult than Graham suggests. For the most part you will be working upside down which is never easy in a TR. Having done a number of these my advise is to start with the speed and tacho removal first as that allows a little more light in behind the dash. Remember to undo the speedo trip first from its locating bracket before taking the speedo out. Also, use some masking tape to mark on which bulb/wire goes where. It will save you a lot of time when you come to put it back together again.

 

Graham is spot on though about the cubby box lid. Take care here otherwise you will spoil your nice new dash board.

 

Unless you want complete originality I would get rid of the Rheostat and replace it with a cigar lighter type charging / USB socket. Its far more useful in today's world and the rheostat only turns already very dim lights off!

 

incidentally, the screws you can see in the facia are only secondary to the brackets on the instruments and air vents in holding the dash in place.

 

Best of luck.

 

hoges.

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Couple of points from me:

 

Be sure to check the sealing washer on the oil pressure gauge doent fall out , its a big mess when it does!

Do install an led dimmer if you go for leds, i found the speedo and tacho too bright at night with the undimmed leds

Do also replace the green indicator telltale with a ‘special’ led one, much brighter

 

Steve

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Removing the dash board is a tad more difficult than Graham suggests. For the most part you will be working upside down which is never easy in a TR. Having done a number of these my advise is to start with the speed and tacho removal first as that allows a little more light in behind the dash. Remember to undo the speedo trip first from its locating bracket before taking the speedo out. Also, use some masking tape to mark on which bulb/wire goes where. It will save you a lot of time when you come to put it back together again.

 

Graham is spot on though about the cubby box lid. Take care here otherwise you will spoil your nice new dash board.

 

Unless you want complete originality I would get rid of the Rheostat and replace it with a cigar lighter type charging / USB socket. Its far more useful in today's world and the rheostat only turns already very dim lights off!

 

incidentally, the screws you can see in the facia are only secondary to the brackets on the instruments and air vents in holding the dash in place.

 

Best of luck.

 

hoges.

 

Hoges I guess it all hinges on your description of 'difficult' but when I change a dash facia my procedure would be.

 

Disconnect battery

Remove radio console

then whilst sitting astride the transmission tunnel ( take the handbrake off! ) one cheek on each seat

remove the lower to gauges by 'feel' from beneath

then you can use the 2 holes you have in the dash to have a peek at what needs disconnecting next from the 2 upper gauges

then I remove tach and use that hole to access some of the connectors on the back of the speedo.

Glove box lid stay next ...don't mix the screws up

Remove facia screws

then from memory it should pull away from the steel dash backing

 

Just my way of doing it and yes the radio console is more hassle to remove but a professional classic car mechanic told me one of the arts of car repair is knowing when its quicker to remove more components to gain access then phaff about working round them !

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Oil Pressure Gauge Leather Washer Seal Triumph TR2 TR3

 

E BAY NUMBER 141193002265

 

avoids ruining your carpets with leaking oil ! and don't forget to report all the fraudulent listings whilst your on ebay ..........

Edited by mattyb
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So am I right in assuming that the screws on the front of the dash do not release the wooden dash until all the c clamps are removed from all the 6 instruments by accessing from under the dash. This sounds really quite complicated, would one have to do this every time a bulb blew in one of the top instruments?

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The c clamps do not clamp to the wooden dashboard, they clamp on to a steel bulkhead behind the wooden dashboard. The instruments have to be removed to get the dashboard out.

 

Most bulbs can be replaced with the instruments in place, I remove the fuel and oil pressure gauges to replace the bulbs giving the Lucas sockets a clean at the same time.

 

The TR6 instruments are a good argument for long life bulbs and having a technically inclined friend with small hands.

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The c clamps do not clamp to the wooden dashboard, they clamp on to a steel bulkhead behind the wooden dashboard. The instruments have to be removed to get the dashboard out.

 

 

 

That is true for the large instruments but the small gauges clamp to the wooden dash and can be removed with the dash.

 

Cheers

Graeme

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hi gramme,

 

you shouldn't find a problem with this job

all the ones I have fitted or had dealings with, the air balls were a problem the new dash won't fit over them,

the left and right air ball, you need to slightly file the holes to allow the dash board to sit flat,

push the file one way, as the file could pull the lamination of,

 

time to think about other mods clock, were the dimmer switch is

change amp meter to volt meter re spray the dial bessels,

 

pink

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  • 2 years later...
On 3/23/2018 at 8:11 AM, Graeme Cole said:

Just about to replace my dashboard with a lovely burr elm one and cappings purchased at the Stonleigh show. How easy is it and are there any tips anyone can give me? I am considering changing the bulbs to LED to properly illuminate the instruments. Has anyone any experience of these bulbs and what is their longevity?post-15435-0-52252300-1521792612_thumb.jpeg

Hello Graeme,

I trust the installation went well.  They are beautiful pieces of wood.  Do you remember from whom you purchased them, please?

Thank you. 
Regards,

Geoffrey

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Graeme, I have just finished all of this, new dash and LEDs all around. Just take your time and carefully tape and mark each wire. Check the loom behind for condition, mine was knackered and I ended up fitting a new front loom.  The LEDs make a big difference, I actually did short the dimmer, I don’t find them too bright unlike one of the other guys. Remove the steering wheel, take the two big dials come out sand then the dash will unscrew and lift forward.  I’ve attached some shots during and after the work.

A52DDCF2-C411-4479-B06E-AD3B5465B852.jpeg

B439734C-0A83-459B-ADFF-8E08E44E7FC0.jpeg

68515E10-6189-4A68-B971-3BD85FDDB1BC.jpeg

6478335E-AD9F-4A8B-A82B-870895784407.jpeg

1647748A-43CF-4E45-B474-FE3AEBDC9ED4.jpeg

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Just another hint to had, the turn signal lever and lights lever can and do fall appart , thei are brittle, if there ais some figorous dash board handling, ask me how i found

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  • 1 year later...

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