pinky Posted March 21, 2018 Report Share Posted March 21, 2018 HI gentlemen, I am in the process of trying to rectify My rear wheel position, one of my rear wheels sticks out more than the other I am going through the parts as stuart has suggested to try and find were the fault is. I have now removed the arms and they have the numbers 308224 v3110 and 308225 v3109 would these arms be correct for a j reg car as stuart has told me there are different types thanks pink Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Austin Branson Posted March 21, 2018 Report Share Posted March 21, 2018 Hello Pink, my '74 has a similar issue - the lh wheel is further out than the right, but I believe it to be that the tub is not bolted to the chassis in the central position. Could that be your problem? Let us know what you find, please. Austin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark69 Posted March 21, 2018 Report Share Posted March 21, 2018 Hi Pink, My trailing arms are the same numbers 308225 v3109 being nearside. My car is a H plate 69. Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark69 Posted March 21, 2018 Report Share Posted March 21, 2018 If you have alloys, have you checked your wheel offset ?. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pinky Posted March 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2018 hi austin, yes it is a possibility I will be measuring to see if it has moved, however it is very unlikely, mark yes it could be will be resetting it up, I have the new adjustable brackets so hopefully they will make the job easier, pink Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted March 21, 2018 Report Share Posted March 21, 2018 Hi Pinky, before removing the trailing arms did you measure the camber of each wheel. O degrees to 0.5 degrees negative would be normal(ish). If you have some positive camber on one side then the wheel would stick out. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JochemsTR Posted March 23, 2018 Report Share Posted March 23, 2018 same issue with me....with camber both sides identical....I gave up on this issue long time ago... Regards Jochem Quote Link to post Share on other sites
boxofbits Posted March 23, 2018 Report Share Posted March 23, 2018 I have a similar issue on my TR4a, but your visual judgement may not be correct. It could be rear wheel tracking, much like the front, but not as easily adjustable, as in toe in or toe out. The only way is to square the chassis ( forget the body) with a longitudinal and horizontal lines in a crucifix on the floor in chalk from fixed points on the chassis, for example. Yes I know you could attached £5k worth of laser beam junk to the car but not necessary, and may not be that accurate. A plumb bob, straight edge and chalk costs nothing. How many times has a Kwikfit 'technician' adjusted your tracking with laser beams, then it scrubs the edge off the tyres?! I've done this with mine and know the n/s/r is toeing in, making the rear of the wheel stick out slightly - I just need to get around to putting it right! Kevin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pinky Posted March 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2018 hi , it seems to me that other people are suffering with a sticky out wheel , I will be carrying out a total refurbishment of the arms brackets suspension and i will try and shed some light on the sticky out wheel syndrome and report back, as it might help others if I find an answer pink Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted March 24, 2018 Report Share Posted March 24, 2018 Hi Pink, too many TRs simply require a proper wheel alignment job, simple as that. Nothing complex about it, just time, patience and application . . . . . and reading the ruddy workshop manual thoroughly. Too many folks, amateur and professional alike, try and do the job in half the time it needs - and of course, that doesn't work. Take it steady and you'll get there OK. Cheers Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roy53 Posted March 24, 2018 Report Share Posted March 24, 2018 Go to the Buckeye triumph site and down load or read. Wonderful piece of info on setting up rear end. ROY Quote Link to post Share on other sites
astontr6 Posted March 24, 2018 Report Share Posted March 24, 2018 Hi Pink, too many TRs simply require a proper wheel alignment job, simple as that. Nothing complex about it, just time, patience and application . . . . . and reading the ruddy workshop manual thoroughly. Too many folks, amateur and professional alike, try and do the job in half the time it needs - and of course, that doesn't work. Take it steady and you'll get there OK. Cheers Alec Hi Alec! I am back again and have to agree with your comments! But I have to also point out that soft rear springs also cause problems because of the drive shaft design. I found that 400lbs springs got rid of rocket take off mode. These springs were supplied by SAH and lasted 40 years before going soft, unlike the BL ones which were soft from day one. When I put on CV type drive shafts they completely changed the rear end performance of my car. I also have a feeling that the diff. mounts are under far less strain. Bruce. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pinky Posted March 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2018 hi Alec, Bruce, hope you feel better soon alec x Well the wheels were set up by revington a few yeas ago, and the car drives nice, I have been under with a tape measure, and have found the body has moved 10 mm, so it is a start, the car has uprated springs kone shocks drive shaft etc ps I do look àt the brown book Alec, pink Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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