Fireman049 Posted March 16, 2018 Report Share Posted March 16, 2018 Nice one, ShaunC ~ Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris Hubball Posted March 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2018 Gentlemen Thank you for your words of wisdom. I am a little confused as to which WOSP starter motor is suitable for my TR4 which has a bolt on ring gear.The WOSP website states LMS006 is suitable for a TR3A -TR4/4A with a bolt on ring gear & LMS0007 TR2-TR4/4A with aTR6 ring gear. I am not aware that the TR4/4A had a ring that was interchangeable with the TR6. Can anyone clarify which of the two WOSP Starter Motors I need. Cheers Chris. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted March 16, 2018 Report Share Posted March 16, 2018 Hi Chris ~ I'm sure if you contact TR Shop they will be able to advise you. Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bill Bourne Posted March 16, 2018 Report Share Posted March 16, 2018 Gentlemen Thank you for your words of wisdom. I am a little confused as to which WOSP starter motor is suitable for my TR4 which has a bolt on ring gear.The WOSP website states LMS006 is suitable for a TR3A -TR4/4A with a bolt on ring gear & LMS0007 TR2-TR4/4A with aTR6 ring gear. I am not aware that the TR4/4A had a ring that was interchangeable with the TR6. Can anyone clarify which of the two WOSP Starter Motors I need. Cheers Chris. Or you could call Woss direct - speak to Luke best Bill Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted March 16, 2018 Report Share Posted March 16, 2018 (edited) TR2 & TR3 should have shrink on ring gear - they need the version with 9 teeth. 4 pot TR's with the bolt on ring gear Tr3A's & 4's need the 10 tooth starter. Yours being a 4 you should have the latter. Don't know about 6 pot engines. Bob. Edited March 16, 2018 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
greasemonkey Posted March 20, 2018 Report Share Posted March 20, 2018 TR2 & TR3 should have shrink on ring gear - they need the version with 9 teeth. 4 pot TR's with the bolt on ring gear Tr3A's & 4's need the 10 tooth starter. Yours being a 4 you should have the latter. Don't know about 6 pot engines. Bob. Exactly! AES do WOSP with free postage at good prices - and their prices are generally good all around. No connectionetc.. https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/category/138 Phil. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted March 22, 2018 Report Share Posted March 22, 2018 The fact that wrapping is widely used in Motorsport must mean something? I will leave mine on! Any Motorsport comments Mick? Cheers. Longevity isn't always a consideration in motorsport. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
greasemonkey Posted March 29, 2018 Report Share Posted March 29, 2018 I'm about to fit a WOSP starter motor. I'm keeping the original solenoid - the fitting instructions say "Retain the black insulated link wire which is fitted between the ignition trigger terminal and the main battery stud." But there isn't one as far as I can see. Does anyone have a photo of their WOSP starter as fitted & retaining the original solenoid? Cheers, Phil. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted March 29, 2018 Report Share Posted March 29, 2018 Just use the existing starter cable to the motor Phil. No need to change anything in the wiring though that does mean there are two solenoids- the original one and the one in the motor but it works fine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted March 29, 2018 Report Share Posted March 29, 2018 Just use the existing starter cable to the motor Phil. No need to change anything in the wiring though that does mean there are two solenoids- the original one and the one in the motor but it works fine. for this method to work you will need a short wire to connect tye main terminal on the motor to the "activation" terminal (normaly a spade type) that is probably what the link wire is you talked about. I wired mine a bit differently. I moved the heavy cable going to the motor from the lower solenoid terminal to the other one, so that it was connected to the heavy cable coming from the battery. I then added a "normal" size wire from the now empty big terminal on the solenoid down to the "activation" terminal on the motor. This takes the starting load off the old solenoid, but still allows you to crank the engine by pushing the button on it. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted March 29, 2018 Report Share Posted March 29, 2018 May be the motors are a bit different then - mine just has one terminal. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted March 29, 2018 Report Share Posted March 29, 2018 Hi Folks, this is my set up. The big battery lead goes to existing solenoid. Then secondary big lead goes to main stud terminal on the SS. A smaller fly lead goes from the stud to a 1/4 spade terminal that energises the push mechanism and then powers the SS Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted March 29, 2018 Report Share Posted March 29, 2018 Yep, that's the normal way of doing it. I like to be different The short black wire is the missing "Link" wire Quote Link to post Share on other sites
greasemonkey Posted March 29, 2018 Report Share Posted March 29, 2018 Hi Folks, this is my set up. The big battery lead goes to existing solenoid. Then secondary big lead goes to main stud terminal on the SS. A smaller fly lead goes from the stud to a 1/4 spade terminal that energises the push mechanism and then powers the SS Roger Yes, that makes sense - so the instructions should read "attach black link wire rather than 'retain' ! Many thanks, Phil. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TorontoTim Posted March 30, 2018 Report Share Posted March 30, 2018 Just to add to the far-too-long-and-conflicting-advice on wrapping stainless manifolds, from personal experience, rather than metallurgical expertise... Mine has been wrapped for over 9 years and I've done literally thousands of miles, about half of which has been on non-tarmac roads (sometimes for many miles at decent speed over pretty rough roads). In that time I have cracked two exhaust systems, but the manifold has been fine. If it's getting more brittle over time, it hasn't (yet) had any noticeable effect in real-life, FWIW I re-wrapped it when I had the engine out 4 years ago. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
oldtuckunder Posted March 31, 2018 Report Share Posted March 31, 2018 In my experience, wrapping works best at heat reduction, ceramic coating is snake oil when it comes to heat reduction, but its pretty and I'm sure would make a mild steel manifold last longer. Wrapping a mild steel manifold is for competition use only it will fail fracture after a few seasons. Currently have ceramic coated SS, will be wrapped as soon as I get a chance! Would like to know if a wrapped, ceramic coated, mild steel manifold faired better, but life's too short. Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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