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Rear End Noise


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Having disconnected the hubs I have discovered:

 

a) no noise when rotating the prop shaft by hand

b ) very little noise when rotating the drivers side of the diff

c) a definite clunk clunk when rotating the passenger side

 

This is even more apparent after I started the car and engaged 4th gear.....I'm no expert but this does not sound like the song of a happy diff. I guess its time to break into the piggy bank and head to the shops.... :(

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/hJ2WmFwjlnbL01P92 (Edited as previous link didn't work)

 

If anyone knows better, please shout!

 

Steve

Edited by Percy TR6
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Replace bearing and seal on both sides. Find someone with experience, removing the bearing is tricky.

Finding someone local to Edinburgh that can do that will be a challenge and a half so I think it will be a new diff unfortunately.

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Finding someone local to Edinburgh that can do that will be a challenge and a half so I think it will be a new diff unfortunately.

Hi Steve, Ive sent you a PM.
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Hi Steve,

if you think the outer bearing is causing the issue (item#54 https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr5-6/clutch-transmission-drivetrain/axles-differentials/rear-axle-tr5-6.html) then you can easily remove that whole lump by removing the 4 screws and pulling out the axle shaft.

 

You can then test the bearing off the diff. Removing the bearing from its shaft looks difficult but a simple puller does it easily (where is one when you need it)

 

There was a long thread on here over the last three years discussing all this. SteveS_TR6 (http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/65269-any-legal-lads-or-lasses-out-there-or-sailors/ post #5) used both axle assemblies to pull against each other.

 

 

Roger

Edited by RogerH
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All is not lost if you haven't an expert nearby in beautiful Scotland.

 

Although, a known good replacement diff would be a convenient & simple solution.

 

 

As Roger wrote, you can unscrew the four bolts on each side and remove the axle shaft end (which contains the bearing).

 

These can then be wrapped in a shipping box and posted to a repair shop of your choice.

 

Photos attached show how accessible the 4 bolts are.

 

Cheers

Walt

post-13442-0-61448100-1520291223_thumb.jpg

post-13442-0-91157500-1520291235_thumb.jpg

Edited by Sapphire72
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All is not lost if you haven't an expert nearby in beautiful Scotland.

 

Although, a known good replacement diff would be a convenient & simple solution.

 

 

As Roger wrote, you can unscrew the four bolts on each side and remove the axle shaft end (which contains the bearing).

 

These can then be wrapped in a shipping box and posted to a repair shop of your choice.

 

Photos attached show how accessible the 4 bolts are.

 

Cheers

Walt

 

Steve, have you seen this?

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1972-TVR-2500M-DIFFERENTIAL-TRIUMPH-TR6-TR5-TR4-2-5-P-I-/292465046674?&_trksid=p2056016.l4276

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DRD - I did see it but its done 60K so theres no guarantee it will be much better than mine.

 

Finally got mine off the car - hardest job was getting the exhaust off! - so will take off the cover and check for internal damage. If none, Ill see if I can find someone to do the bearings. Failing that, it will be a full replacement.

 

Ive got a 1700 mile non stop drive (charity event) to do at the start of April so I need to put this to bed ASAP.

 

Steve

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Steve

 

What about this one -expensive but guaranteed from a respected source and you may be able to exchange your old unit

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-TR4A-TR5-TR6-3-45-1-RECON-DIFFERENTIAL-UNIT-OUTRIGHT-SALE/172855484925?hash=item283efd61fd:g:Ro0AAOSwAPVZNr9c

 

Cheers

 

Rich

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Steve, with the exhaust out of the way, you could remove the side axle stubs with the diff still attached.

Then send them to a recommended repair facility.

 

It's a bit of a pain to lower & replace the entire diff, but it is a good opportunity to check for a crack in the right-front mount- at base of pin/stud, or damaged mount, itself.

And, replace the hanger bushings. And, hypoid gear oil. And, grease the axle splines and the universal joints.

Edited by Sapphire72
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Steve, with the exhaust out of the way, you could remove the side axle stubs with the diff still attached.

Then send them to a recommended repair facility.

 

It's a bit of a pain to lower & replace the entire diff, but it is a good opportunity to check for a crack in the right-front mount- at base of pin/stud, or damaged mount, itself.

And, replace the hanger bushings. And, hypoid gear oil. And, grease the axle splines and the universal joints.

The diff is now off and will be opened up as soon as I can get a chance. I’ve been in touch with GT6M and have a long list of things to look at. Many thanks to everyone for the input. Will update on progress & outcomes soon.

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hi percy, best of luck, very stressful when you have a trip organised

 

a thought, they have an electrical radiator in screw fix, 17 pounds, very cheap to run,

put it on leave it on and you will stay warm in the garage for hours

 

pink

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Having opened up the diff, I am now even more confused. It appears to be in perfect health......assuming you ignore the 12 missing teeth!!! :o

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Mj4rjWC57C20GHtc2

 

Time to order a new one...... Thanks for all the input. Every day is a school day.

 

Steve

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Yee,v a long long way t,go befoer ye catch up to a real diff wrecker, !!! :P

re built diff, an a terrible sound frae the gearbox,

took teeth of that,

back t,githa, and a awfull vibration, took prop off, an prop was litterally twisted,

 

If yer gonna doo it, doo it right, he,hee heee.

 

M

post-12368-0-10333400-1520449675_thumb.jpg

post-12368-0-83624400-1520449694_thumb.jpg

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Roger - you’re right. It is a result in so far as I now know for sure i need a new diff. If I’d replaced the bearings and given it another go I might have ended up with the sort of experience GT6M has outlined - at midnight on Spaghetti Junction.

 

Everything for a reason.

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New (recon) diff now received, installed & fed with oil

Started car and all sounded healthy.

Reconnected the hubs, started up again and back to sounding rough - not nearly as bad as before but the hubs are notchy when rotated by hand.

 

Now removing the hubs and ordering replacements ...hopefully that will be the end of it.

 

Hey Ho.

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Hi Steve,

what/which hubs are you getting? - I hope not rebuilt ones.

 

Roger

Looking at new ones from Moss, Roger

 

 

Wow!

How on earth does a diff get in that state ( if not racing) ??

 

Steve

I have no idea how old the diff is - its definitely not original - but I'm guessing I missed the early signs and one thing led to another. As GT6M pointed out, it could have been a lot worse if some of the sizeable chunks of metal floating around in there got caught up where they shouldn't have been. Trying hard to count my blessings! :rolleyes:

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Hi Steve,

I have had two new Moss hubs for the last 11 months and they are doing very well.

 

You may well find that the hubs feel quite stiff if trying to turn by hand - don;t panic. They all appear to be on the stiff side.

 

After fitting, for peace of mind, check the hubs every couple of weeks to make sure they are not becoming loose or seizing up.

I have had none of this - they have worked very well.

 

Roger

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