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Sill Brackets / How much of old sills to remove


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Hi all, newbie on here, but have enjoyed looking at your forum over the last few months. I recently purchased a late CP TR6 as a project. It came with the floor and sills cut out and new panels to fit - and i am in the process of putting it back together. Tub is well braced which is a good starter. Now working out best ways to fit before i cut too much out (they have left most of the metal in place around A and B posts including the triangular stiffener, and this looks fairly rot free 9see photos) - is it best left in place and cut sills around to suit and weld in ?

 

Looking at catalogues there are some sill fitting brackets - are these necessary on a re-fit - can't seem to find picture of them fitted on net etc.

 

Thanks in anticipation / look forward to meeting you all on here.

 

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Hi all, newbie on here, but have enjoyed looking at your forum over the last few months. I recently purchased a late CP TR6 as a project. It came with the floor and sills cut out and new panels to fit - and i am in the process of putting it back together. Tub is well braced which is a good starter. Now working out best ways to fit before i cut too much out (they have left most of the metal in place around A and B posts including the triangular stiffener, and this looks fairly rot free 9see photos) - is it best left in place and cut sills around to suit and weld in ?

 

Looking at catalogues there are some sill fitting brackets - are these necessary on a re-fit - can't seem to find picture of them fitted on net etc.

 

Thanks in anticipation / look forward to meeting you all on here.

 

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Hello Richy, I'm not an expert but have done quite a few body repairs on TR's.

 

I am of the opinion that if at all possible to keep as much of the car bodies integrity, to cut away good steel seems unnecessary.

 

But others with more knowledge will pop up I'm sure, good luck with the job.

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Hi Rich

 

Just in the process of dong the same one side to go!

 

IMO I'd cut out the whole of the old sill and any other rot you find. From your pics looks like the old sill is still attached to the A/B posts I suggest cutting this off otherwise the sill will sit too low and the door gap will be too big probably some rust and the A/B posts metal might be thin and need replacement. Refit the door as reference as this will dictate how the wings/gaps will look.

 

I've found it took me a long while to get the sill to fit well and the bottom gap to be even with the door been on and off lots. As above only cut out small sections at a time.

 

Best of luck.

 

Andy

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spent the afternoon working things out without cutting yet - i think your right - vmay as well take most of it out - slowly does it ! - ponder and think before i grind ! also looks as if there's been some earlier work around the posts, and looks a bit suspect so will go a bit at a time / remove it.

 

Did you use the sill brackets ? - found pics online now - looks like i need them as well as the end caps.

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Hi Rich

 

I would agree with removing as much old material as possible and also ensure the bottoms of the A/B posts are tidy and sound, and ensure they are free of rust and zinc primed. Have you thought about how you're going to weld this assembly together?

 

Ideally the long flanges need to be spot welded. Plug welding is okay but is a bit clumsy and time consuming. You run the risk of burning through the panel and it will need a lot of grinding down of mig welds afterwards with the risk then of cutting into/ damaging the sill panel. If you spot weld you'll need weld thru primer.

 

Kevin

Edited by boxofbits
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spent the afternoon working things out without cutting yet - i think your right - vmay as well take most of it out - slowly does it ! - ponder and think before i grind ! also looks as if there's been some earlier work around the posts, and looks a bit suspect so will go a bit at a time / remove it.

 

Did you use the sill brackets ? - found pics online now - looks like i need them as well as the end caps.

As below I cut out bits from the A/B posts and made good. Sill brackets I also repaired although new ones are availabe.

 

I made up the lower inner sills and have plug welded both the lips/seams using a copper plate behind to stop blowing though this has helped as well on thinner parts. A spot welder would be easier I suppose if ou can borrow one.

 

As you say think twice, measure three times and then cut!

 

Its taken me much much longer than I thought.

Edited by PodOne
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Richy

 

You do need to fit ( weld ) the strengthening brackets to the underside of the floor panel ( is this what you mean by sill brackets -see photo below?)and then fit between them and the chassis mounting the relevant spacers - the normal starting point is a sandwich of a rubber spacer either side of the steel spacer - you will also need the sill end caps but make sure you put them the right way round ( the lip facing outwards - may seem counter-intuitive but doing them the other way round looks wrong - all these parts are readily available from the normal suppliers

 

As for trimming away metal, remove the remnants of the sill from the A & B posts so they will sit well on the sill but be careful not to remove the metal belonging to each post which is on the front and back side of A post and a bit more of a complicated profile on the B post - you need to pay particular attention to making sure the bottom of the A post doesn't move outwards during the process as this will cause you all sorts of alignment problems later . Getting this bit right will lay the foundations for good body alignment - get it wrong and you will always be struggling

 

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If you have the option, always do one side first and use the other side as a reference point

 

Cheers

Rich

 

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Thanks all, think i'm getting my head round it / all seeming more logical. have ordered the sill brackets and end caps (have the chassis spacers), will take the next week to think things out (before i grind) - seems not a job to rush - i knew this area was the biggest challenge when i bought the car !!

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Hi Richy,

there is another post running about drain holes in the sill.

 

Make sure that the floor drop flange (sill inner lower section) is in good order and it has three or four 1/2" holes to allow draining.

 

Put a decent sized hole in each of the end caps (with rubber bungs) in order to apply waxoyl type stuff inside.

 

Roger

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Use search do not carry on without.

 

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DO NOT penalise yourself, this subject has been covered every which way over the last 10 years...and the sills and floors still need changing the same way. Photos (as long as not photobucket) and prose available.

 

Mick Richards

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