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Revotec Fan Install

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Hi There.

 

Well, I've taken the plunge and purchased a Revotec Fan kit on sale to install while cylinder head is off and radiator out the car.

 

Questions:

1. For a mechanically-minded person (myself), but electrical idiot (myself), is the electrical hookup complicated? I've heard instructions are vague (not yet received). I have an original generator (with wide belt). Negative earth. 1967 TR4A.

 

2. Should I remove the original fan or leave in place? The horsepower gain is not a concern for me.

 

Much appreciated.

 

Regards

Andrew

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1. not complicated, the wiring loom comes already assembled, you just have to connect to the fan it's self.

 

Did you go for the "Laser cut" mountings ? I found them to be very good.

Mount the fan on the engine side of rad, as close too it as possible.

 

fitting the sensor in the bottom hose is fiddly, mine actually failed (unusual I'm told) so I replaced it with an Otter switch screwed into the metal part of the bottom hose

 

2. Yes I would remove the mechanical fan - you won't need it.

 

You could take the opportunity to convert to narrow belt while it's all apart.

 

Bob

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Hi Andrew ~

 

Here is a wiring diagram for an electric fan incorporating a relay ~ highly recommended!!

 

Cheers ~

Tom.

 

Edited by Fireman049

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Personally I think fitting in front of the rad is preferable as this leaves max room for changing fan belt etc should the need arise, it will be pretty crowded if you leave the mech fan in place. . I appreciate that some feel that the aerodynamics are better with a rear mount, but either way seems good enough, and if you are leaving the mech fan in place you will have more than enough cooling anyway. Whichever way you fit, for max efficiency you need to ensure the fan shroud is as close to the rad as possible.

Mike

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IMHO.........ditch the mechanical fan...thermofan with relay on engine side...do a harmonic balancer conversion [and perhaps alternator] with the narrow belt conversion.

Even if you are not intending to do the narrow belt conversion, have your radiator guy or yourself solder/weld a fitting [to screw a thermofan switch into] in the TOP radiator tank not the bottom [can be 10deg c difference in temperature between the top and bottom radiator hoses when hot]...or into the thermostat housing...you could also fit a digitally controlled temp gauge, only problem is that the gauge is not old skool looking, but it is reassuring to see the exact temp of the engine water/coolant.

Edited by Malbaby

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Tom.

The Revotec kit comes pre-wired with a relay, but nice diagram anyway :)

 

Bob.

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fitting the sensor in the bottom hose is fiddly, mine actually failed (unusual I'm told) so I replaced it with an Otter switch screwed into the metal part of the bottom hose

 

 

Bob

 

Mine failed too and they said it was unusual also. They are very fiddly to adjust so I fitted a simple thermo switch.

 

Mike

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HI, I fitted a preset thermo switch in to a replacement bottom hose metal pipe which had a bose welded in, works very well.

Fitted mine out of sight in front of the radiator and went for a narrow belt conversion and dropped the old metal fan blade and nose cone from the crank.

Put my relay up by the fuse box along with a second fuse box for the new wring so I can remove back to standard at any point if needed.

 

Very easy job, although I brought all the parts seperately from various places and not as a single kit.

I fitted thermo switch IM50120 which cuts in at 88 degrees C and shuts down again at 79 degrees C. Which I find works very well for me.

I put together a little diagram of all the thermo switches so I could see what trhey actually did.

 

Mark

Edited by MRG1965

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Sorry it did not upload picture an can't see how to add picture to original post.

 

Mark

 

post-12879-0-01550500-1518182519_thumb.jpg

 

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I went for the 92° one, so it only cuts in after the norm temperature is exceeded by a reasonable margin.

Also worth fitting an override switch, for when you know you are about to be stuck in traffic on a hot day !

 

Bob.

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Folks,

 

I noticed that while the Moss/UK web site offers the Revotec electric fan kit, the Moss/US site instead offers the Hayden fan kit: https://mossmotors.com/triumph-tr2-3-4/cooling/hayden-electric-fan-kits

 

From what I can see in the pictures, the Revotec kit has an inline temp sensor that is spliced into the lower radiator hose, while the Hayden kit has a sensor that is inserted into the radiator matrix.

 

Has anyone used a Hayden fan, or can comment on the difference in sensor types?

 

Thanks

 

Jim

Edited by Tr4aJim

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Kenlowe were using a similar sensor inserted between the rad vanes, I had a couple of them fail on a TR2 and they did admit that the electronics in them werent to keen on the vibration on a 4 cylinder TR so supplied me with an original type of sensor bulb kit FOC and its worked very happily on that ever since.

Stuart

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I can confirm that the Revotec fan kit including brackets is indeed idiot-proof for this idiot managed to install it, wire it up following the instructions and it works like a charm.

 

Changed to 92 Degree thermostat.

 

Regards

 

Andrew

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Hi

 

I went a different route. I bought a 16" fan for about GBP 26 on ebay. ( 16" 80W Radiator Fan Universal 12v Slimline Lightweight) These have 2 fats and fits exactly between the frame of the radiator. The fan is fix as a push fan with 2 bolts to the cowl and to bolts through the bottom guard.

To controle the fan I used a -50-110°C W1209 Digital thermostat Temperature Control Switch 12V sensor from E-bay. I glued the probe in the bottom ridge of the radator. I set it up to come on at 65C and then drop off a 62 C. After it comes on the temperature will rise to about 70C and then it starts to drop.

At last no more worries when standing in a traffic jam on a hot day.

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I used the revotec kit with laser cut brackets to fix the unit to the radiator. An easy installation and good quality barckets that looks great. I removed the mech fan, converted to thin belt and alternator at the same time. I did not fit the adjustable thermo switch and opted for a fixed switch and an adapted submarine pipe on the bottom hose. The wiring was easy, I am not an expert and just took my time when connecting the relay. Chuffed with the results.

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