TR4ffic Posted January 29, 2018 Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 So, I've got the dashboard and centre console out of the car and all stripped down ready for trimming. The outside face of the centre console is now bare metal - My questions is - Is it OK to trim bare metal or should I paint it first? If I do, will just primer do or do I need something 'glossy'? Also, I've got a tin of contact adhesive - The "apply to both surfaces, leave to go tacky and then assemble" type stuff... Any top tips for using this glue and trimming? Do's and Don'ts..? Cheers Nick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted January 29, 2018 Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 Whatever you do: paint the backside of the panel white (primer or gloss - no matter). The white surface will make working behind the dash a lot easier. Menno Quote Link to post Share on other sites
boxofbits Posted January 29, 2018 Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 (edited) Hi Nick Do you mean the H Frame centre console ? If so then it will be bare metal under the trim. Just make sure any old adhesive is cleaned off. I did use Evostick on mine, but you are best to trial fit dry just to make sure it lines up properly. Once you have applied glue, you need to go for it quite quickly as it will stick fast almost immediately! No you dont need to paint the bare metal surface prior to a layer of adhesive. Regards Kevin Edited January 29, 2018 by boxofbits Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted January 29, 2018 Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 Spot on Menno ~ Nick ~ The centre instrument panel should be painted with Black 'wrinkle' paint. This should be sprayed on to the pre-heated panel then cure using a hot air gun. This is what I did with mine with excellent results. Regarding your adhesive. It all depends on the make, but usually they all perform as instructed. It's very important that you let the adhesive start to go tacky before you apply the vinyl. Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 29, 2018 Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 The factory primed it with red primer first but unless you dont mind leaving it for quite a few weeks to dry properly you may find the glue will soften it Always with contact glues you should coat and then allow to just dry before applying but then you only have one chance. You will find a few bulldog clips will help to hold it while you stretching it into place and also gentle use of a hot air gun too especially round the centre console aperture and the glove box opening too. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Charlie D Posted January 29, 2018 Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 Hello Nick, Always make sure you cut the vinyl a fair bit bigger than you think you need. That way you don’t have to be too careful about positioning it right first time (First time is THE ONLY time with contact adhesive.) If you cut it with, say, just an inch overlap at the edges and you put it on slightly twisted, it may end up 2 ins over in one place and ¼ inch too small somewhere else. (Ask me how I know…) Also do you cut slits and fold back for the instrument holes or do you trim exactly around the edge of the hole? If the hole is big enough, (to get the instrument through with the thickness of the vinyl,) I’d do the fold back way. Sometimes if you cut exactly to the size of the hole and you have stretched the vinyl a bit putting it on, the vinyl can shrink back slightly and you end up with a bit around the instrument rim with the metal showing. (Ask me how I know…) I know the center bit should be black crackle, but I’ve never been able to get good results with crackle paint. (Maybe Tom is more patient than me.) When I retrimmed my 3A I simply used vinyl on the dash and the center consul. I guess it’s a matter of personal choice, unless you are going for 100% originality. Charlie D Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EdwinTiben Posted January 29, 2018 Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 painting white is a good advice. did the same when trimming my tr2 dash. If you have a pre-formed dash (my was done by Skinner and had a sewn part for the steering wheel colum). from there go 2 ways, piece by piece, i did not more than 10 cm a time. first heating the vinyl with a hair dryer and pulling it in the right form. then glueing both sides and fixating it after a couple of minutes. dont heat too much because the vinyl can stretch to a point where it looses its structure. For the round edges, cut a v-shape in the remaining edge of the vinyl, make sure you dont cut too far, to have the v-shaped cut behind the dash. excessive material kan be removed after finishing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nick Webster Posted January 29, 2018 Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 I have trimmed out complete classic buses - some pictures to be found in this album https://www.flickr.com/photos/21640011@N07/albums/72157630287399370 My tips would be: Under no circumstances paint the panel before hand because the glue will eventually disolve the paint and even if it stays stuck, lumps can appear much later. I use Alpha glue, previously made by Dunlop. In their range is a high temperature glue that will not be affected when the Sun shines directly on it. This is what professionals use. You do not say what kind of vinyl you are using. So called "expanded vinyl" which has some stretch and is on what appears to be a fine knitted backing is the LEAST satisfactory and is intended to for seat covers i.e. areas that are not stuck down.It is also the most easily available because that's what everybody tries to sell on fire resistant grounds. You can still find vinyl with the same backing as used by Triumph. This is thinner than Expanded. Avoid so called "Rexine" which is quite thin but actually these days intended for book binding. I have not seen trimming spec Rexine in a long time. Even the non stretch vinyl will become stretchy with glue on it. Handy but sometimes a worry if you have cut out instrument holes. Don't panic, it wil shrink a bit when the glue dries and small air bubbles will go. I don't like spray glue from a can although a proper glue spray gun is a different matter. The can glue sits on top of the hairy fibres of the backing and fails to bind. I use a spatula thinly spread. Prime the vinyl with glue. Let it dry and when you are ready to go pop a bit more on to activate. After this, when the the glue faces seem almost dry to gentle touch, that is just right. You might want to experiment with this. Hope this is of help. Nick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ckeithjordan Posted January 29, 2018 Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 Heres a virtual tutorial from the British Car Forum by John Durant. He restored a derelict TR2 and documented the whole process on the forum with lots of pictures. Covering the dash starts on the June 12, 2017 posting: http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?109923-Upholstery-! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ckeithjordan Posted January 29, 2018 Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 Also, if youre concerned about originality, Frank Conklins post here (7th one): http://www.triumphexp.com/phorum/read.php?6,1451381,page=2 Talks about how the backs of the center gauge panel were signed by the assembler/technician at the S-T plant with the last three digits of the cars commission number and their initials. Being in pencil, the markings survive remarkably well. I found them on my 1957 TR3. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR4ffic Posted January 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2018 Many thanks for the feedback/tips, guys... Edwin - Thanks for the photos. I note that you didn't/couldn't take any of the vinyl through the instrument holes (I've already come to the conclusion that there isn't enough room on the centre console for vinyl and gauge to fit in the hole, but haven't checked the speedo/rev counter yet) - Did you have any issues around the material shrinking away from the cut edge at the hole? ...did you use any special technique to glue the material at the edge? Generally, I think I'll need to practice a bit first before taking the plunge... The biggest tips I've gleaned is to work in stages - I had thought I'd have to glue and fix the whole lot in one go which was very daunting as I don't like to rush - and that applying some more glue to glue that has already dried will re-activate it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted January 30, 2018 Report Share Posted January 30, 2018 Nick, It's not totally clear whether you are talking about a TR3/3A or a TR4. What do you mean by "centre console"? Do you mean the gauge panel on a TR3/3A ? (that is not usually referred to as a "centre console") AlanR Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR4ffic Posted January 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2018 Hi Alan It's my 3A... Just checked on the Moss parts website - for 'Centre Console' read 'Instrument Panel'. Apologies if that wasn't clear. This bit... I used to have a TR4 hence my name 'TR4ffic' if that is what was causing the confusion - I've used it for a number of years on various forums/websites - It was a 4A actually but there aren't any words starting 'Traa...'! I haven't thought too much about a 'TR3A...' option... Words starting 'Trea...' 'TR3Adle' might work - Some have likened my 3 to a larger version of a child's pedal car..! Nick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted February 11, 2018 Report Share Posted February 11, 2018 Hi Nick....hot tip is to use the spray on adhesive.....loads easier than messing about trying to spread it out of a tin. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted February 12, 2018 Report Share Posted February 12, 2018 Hi Nick....hot tip is to use the spray on adhesive.....loads easier than messing about trying to spread it out of a tin. Yes to ease of use but a definite no for durability. All the bits I stuck using the highest strength spray on adhesive I could buy came unstuck after a while whereas none of the ones done using Woolies Alpha high temp have let go. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted February 12, 2018 Report Share Posted February 12, 2018 Spray on is OK for the flat parts, but need better stuff for where you turn over the edge of the panel, & for non flat parts eg the elbow cappings on a sidescreen car. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 12, 2018 Report Share Posted February 12, 2018 Hi Folks, I think I mentioned this a while back. The Woolies Alpha AF176 is a very good self adhesive. Most of us use a small amount for a job and when next used the tin has turned into a solid mass. A year or so back I needed this product so at the same time I ordered some very small glass jars (40mL or so) and decanted the tin into these jars. I can still use a small amount from each jar but after use I replace the lid and store the jar upside down. This puts the little amount of air in the jar at the bottom so when you come to use again the fresh glue is at the top, So far I have used 2 x 40mL jars and the remainder are in perfect condition. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted February 12, 2018 Report Share Posted February 12, 2018 Good tip Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ben Freer Posted February 12, 2018 Report Share Posted February 12, 2018 Hi Folks, I think I mentioned this a while back. The Woolies Alpha AF176 is a very good self adhesive. Most of us use a small amount for a job and when next used the tin has turned into a solid mass. A year or so back I needed this product so at the same time I ordered some very small glass jars (40mL or so) and decanted the tin into these jars. I can still use a small amount from each jar but after use I replace the lid and store the jar upside down. This puts the little amount of air in the jar at the bottom so when you come to use again the fresh glue is at the top, So far I have used 2 x 40mL jars and the remainder are in perfect condition. Roger Are those the little jars you get in hotels with jam or marmalade in Roger? P.s. What's it like on toast????? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR4ffic Posted March 28, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2018 Evening All, The Winter (and Spring..!) re-trimming project is nearing completion and, considering it's my first go, I'm fairly pleased with the results. As with most things, if you had a chance to do it a second time, you'd approach a couple of things a bit differently and get a better result but on the whole... I'm now in the process of getting it all back together - I have the dash back in with some of the dials and wiring. I've been trying to sort out the 'worms wedding' behind the dash but I'm mindful of the '...if it ain't broke, don't fix it' adage. Funny the obvious things you spot, though, as I now realise my temp gauge is not standard and a later version - I'll pick up a correct one sometime and swap over. A couple of days of sunny weather has spurred me on. Nick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted March 28, 2018 Report Share Posted March 28, 2018 Are those the little jars you get in hotels with jam or marmalade in Roger? P.s. What's it like on toast? Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted March 28, 2018 Report Share Posted March 28, 2018 Where is the hole for the panel lights ? Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR4ffic Posted March 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2018 Hi Bob, A PO has blanked the hole off with a piece of metal - securely fixed/tack welded. I did try and get it out to re-instate the panel light dimmer/control but I was worried about making a mess of it. tbh, you only ever need the panel lights on full/bright anyway... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RUBY131 Posted March 29, 2018 Report Share Posted March 29, 2018 Just struggled under my dash with mirror and torch and yes, the pencil numbers are there O.K. but cant' read them so it will have to wait till I need to remove the panel. You know how it goes" Dont poke a sleeping dog ect." Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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