j_d Posted January 23, 2018 Report Share Posted January 23, 2018 Hello everyone, I would really appreciate some points of view on this topic. I rebuilt my '71 TR6 using original parts in 1989. It has not done a whole lot of miles since and stood for extended periods while we lived overseas. I have now passed the car on to my son and am giving him some assistance in swapping in a replacement gearbox. As a matter of course we are replacing the clutch (well having the Laycock unit re-manufactured by Precision Clutch), release bearing etc. plus any other pieces that make sense 'while I am there'. I have two questions: 1) The original gearbox mount fitted in '89 is in good order but is getting on in years. Should I replace this with a new reproduction item or stick with a sound original? There is no sign of perishing or undue movement. 2) Should I change the rear oil seal simply based on its 29 years of limited service. There is no sign of any leak (posted on old thread yesterday but no response). Just trying to resolve 'if it aint broke don't fix it' vs best practices vs relative quality of new reproduction parts. Many thanks, John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted January 23, 2018 Report Share Posted January 23, 2018 'if it aint broke don't fix it' You've answered your own question . . . . Cheers Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DRD Posted January 23, 2018 Report Share Posted January 23, 2018 'if it aint broke don't fix it' You've answered your own question . . . . Cheers Alec +1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
j_d Posted January 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2018 Thanks Guys - much appreciated, I've always believed that work for the sake of working is against nature .... Nice to have a second opinion! Also Alec, thanks for your post on Precision Clutch, invaluable information! Cheers, John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Austin Branson Posted January 23, 2018 Report Share Posted January 23, 2018 Hi John, I agree. I have had a number if problems with the quality (or lack-of!) of modern parts. Stick with originals wherever possible. Regards to Sean. Austin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew Smith Posted January 23, 2018 Report Share Posted January 23, 2018 Agree with the above, chances are your original gb mount is still in better condition than a repro and will be for years to come. Cheers Andrew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted January 23, 2018 Report Share Posted January 23, 2018 It will be worth putting in the double width cross shaft bushes and pinning the operating fork if it hasnt already been done. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fremont Posted January 23, 2018 Report Share Posted January 23, 2018 I'd change both the mount and the seal, as the former I know to be very good in a repro ( TRF supply ) and the latter is a common production item subject to the same quality pressures as original equipment. This is because you're in there already and failure of the existing ones would require repeating the current exercise. As for the clutch, new supply of excellent quality is available but a properly reconditioned original should be OK as well. I would want a new diaphragm spring if it were mine. Cheers, Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
j_d Posted January 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2018 Gents thanks again for the input. Tom - I have ordered a replacement seal and will make a judgement call at the weekend. Andrew - good point on the cross shaft. I have just ordered the Oilite bushes from Revington plus the up-rated taper pin and will use a pair of roll pins in conjunction. I saw somewhere to drill the x-shaft and add grease nipples for the bushes. Would that be necessary with the bronze bushes fitted? Thanks again, John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted January 23, 2018 Report Share Posted January 23, 2018 Not strictly nescessary with oilite bushes as they are oil impregnated and should be lubricated with oil if at all but Ive fitted grease nipples to mine anyway. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fremont Posted January 23, 2018 Report Share Posted January 23, 2018 I fit (2) bushes on each side and fill the space between with grease. It should easily last the life of the clutch ( can't get out ). Drilling the cross shaft should not be necessary if the taper pin goes all the way into the shaft. This won't happen with examples lacking a chamfer under the head; these will bottom on the head instead of the taper and are sure to fail. If yours isn't chamfered it can be filed easily enough. Cheers, Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
astontr6 Posted January 24, 2018 Report Share Posted January 24, 2018 Gents thanks again for the input. Tom - I have ordered a replacement seal and will make a judgement call at the weekend. Andrew - good point on the cross shaft. I have just ordered the Oilite bushes from Revington plus the up-rated taper pin and will use a pair of roll pins in conjunction. I saw somewhere to drill the x-shaft and add grease nipples for the bushes. Would that be necessary with the bronze bushes fitted? Thanks again, John Hi John! A point to remember about Oilite bushes is that they s/b soaked in light machine oil for 24 hours before fitting at room temperature! We always did this when I was an apprentice as per the manufacturers instructions. Bruce. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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