Tr4aJim Posted January 20, 2018 Report Share Posted January 20, 2018 Hello, I have a 1965 Tr4a with a solid axle. Its been leaking oil from the front of the differential, so I want to replace the pinion oil seal. I checked under the car to get an idea of the work involved, and it sure looks like this could be a bigger job than I thought. The driveshaft is really boxed in there between the frame and the exhaust. If I remove the front and rear flange bolts, can the driveshaft be shifted enough to get the rear drive flange off the pinion, or does the driveshaft have to be removed first? If the driveshaft has to be removed, does the differential have to be removed (or lowered) to get it out? Thanks Jim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul J Posted January 20, 2018 Report Share Posted January 20, 2018 (edited) Hi Jim Try this link TR4 differential input shaft oil seal - TR4/4A Forum - TR Register ... Its for a TR4 but I would imagine the procedure would be the same. Paul Edited January 20, 2018 by Paul J Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tr4aJim Posted January 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2018 Hi Paul. Thanks for the link, but unfortunately that procedure starts with removing the rear drive flange. No mention of what they did with the driveshaft. Jim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
graeme Posted January 21, 2018 Report Share Posted January 21, 2018 Hi Jim, It is a bit fiddly but once disconnected, you should be able to extract the drive shaft (prop shaft) from the gearbox end. I have done it on a TR6 which should be similar. Cheers Graeme Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tr4aJim Posted January 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2018 Thanks Graeme, I will check the clearance with the exhaust pipes. My Tr4a has dual exhaust, but it’s a only a single pipe in the front half of the car, so hopefully there is room to shift the propshaft past it. Another thought I had was to unbolt the propshaft at the rear, and loosen/rotate the differential enough to clear the drive flange. Does that sound doable? Jim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tr4aJim Posted January 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 (edited) Folks, I finished installing the rear pinion seal! As I mentioned in my first post, I did this on my 65 Tr4a (solid axle), with the differential in the car. First, thanks for all the suggestions you gave me. However I did run into some issues, but it worked out ok. So in case someone else needs to go down this path, heres what I had to do. Its a bit long winded, but I didnt want to leave anything out. 1. Loosen the spline joint on the driveshaft. 2. Disconnect the the driveshaft from the rear drive flange. 3. Slide the driveshaft forward as far as it will go. Then lift the loose end of the driveshaft clear of the drive flange and prop it up (I used a short piece of wood 4x4 sitting on the rectangular plate thats welded between the frame rails). 4. Rotate the drive flange so the bolt holes are at 10 & 2, and 8 & 4. Note the position of the cotter pin in the pinion shaft and mark its position on the castle nut. Remove the cotter pin. Then using a greasy finger, I marked the location of the 10 & 2 bolt holes onto a piece of paper. 5. To lock the flange in place when removing the drive flange nut, I got a piece of 1 1/4 inch x 1/8 inch flat steel and cut it to a length of two feet (sorry but I dont have a metric ruler). This is short enough to maneuver, but long enough to sit on top of the frame rails over the drive flange. I placed the flat steel on the frame in front of the flange, and marked the 10 & 2 holes on it with a pencil. I then used the paper from step 3 to verify the position of the holes. I then drilled two 3/8 inch holes. I also cut a curved notch between the holes so it will clear the socket to remove the flange nut. 6. Bolt the bar to the top of the flange and remove the pinion nut. Remove the bar. 7. Remove the flange by pulling it forward (a few taps with a hammer will get it moving). 8. I tried using a seal hook tool to remove the pinion seal, but I couldnt get good leverage with the pinion shaft in the way. So I found a blind seal puller (Lisle 58430) that has a hook and a lever bar. It worked very well. 9. The problem now was getting the new seal in. With the shaft in the way, I couldnt use the seal driver tool I have, plus theres not a lot of room to drive it in, let alone drive it square. So heres what I came up with. I bought three round electric box covers that had knockouts in the center. I removed the knockouts, and also got a large 5/8 inch washer. I put the new seal in place using a little grease to help hold it there. Then I put on the three covers, followed by the washer. I set the handbrake and put the flange nut on and started tightening it. The box covers kept the seal square and distributed the force, driving the seal in. Then release the handbrake. 10. Put the flange back on the pinion shaft (BTW - I used a speedi-sleeve on the flange). Adjust the flange so the top holes are at the 10 & 2 position and reattach the steel bar. Tighten the pinion nut, aligning the marks made in step 4, and put in a cotter pin. 11. Reattach the driveshaft, and tighten the spline joint. Done! Thanks again, Jim Edited January 29, 2018 by Tr4aJim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted January 29, 2018 Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 Jim - I think your description is worthy of inclusion in TR Action, so I've made Mike Jennings (Technical Editor) aware of it. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mikej Posted January 29, 2018 Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 Hi Jim, Yes, this would make a great article and support another one that's in the funnel. I have a couple of questions and a request, could you ping me at Technical@tr-register.co.uk? Regards, Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tr4aJim Posted January 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 Ian, thanks! Mike I will contact you. BTW - Here are pictures of the bar I made, as well as the electrical plates and the seal removal tool. Jim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted January 29, 2018 Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 The seal removal tool looks useful - where did it come from ? Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tr4aJim Posted January 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 Hi Bob, It’s by a company called Lisle and the part number is 58430. I found it online (Amazon). Jim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 29, 2018 Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 Here you are Bob, https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X+Lisle+P%2FN+58430..TRS0&_nkw=+Lisle+P%2FN+58430.&_sacat=0 Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted January 29, 2018 Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 (edited) Thanks Roger, I did see that (& many others) earlier, but was put off by the fact that they were all from the USA, which usually means huge postage delays, & of course relatively high postage costs. Was hoping to find one in UK. Bob. P.S. The Amazon one is costlier than USA Ebay inc postage ! Edited January 29, 2018 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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