Alec Pringle Posted January 7, 2018 Report Share Posted January 7, 2018 Nothing to do with me, but this isn't something I see very often . . . . https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Girling-Restrictor-Valve-Discs-Triumph-TR3-TR4-TR4A-Old-Stock-but-untested/292392684380?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649 Useful if you really want 100% originality ! Cheers, Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted January 7, 2018 Report Share Posted January 7, 2018 This is the device which can cause problems by maintaining too high a pressure to the (front) disc brakes - I know, I had it happen in the mid-1960s and the discs can get VERY hot. Most of us recommend stripping the device and chucking the innards into the dustbin, then putting the empty body back in place so as not to have to obtain a longer length of bundy tubing to bridge the gap. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 7, 2018 Report Share Posted January 7, 2018 Hi Ian, Alec's post was for the 100% originality freaks - whether it works or not. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted January 7, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2018 Hi Ian, I couldn't agree more, skip fodder, and Roger sussed my cynical tone . . . . . but there are folks around who value these touches of originality, even when the damn things are unseen. A few years back now, I came across one in a local motor factor's clearance bin for a couple of quid, and stuck it on the 'bay, started at a fiver and a brace of our transatlantic friends fought a duel up to nearly £70 for the damn thing . . . . . amazing. Ludicrous over-enthusiasm, I felt obliged to include a full set of nos Girling cylinder seals foc, seemed only reasonable as I had lots of them surplus ! Cheers Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted January 7, 2018 Report Share Posted January 7, 2018 I actually have an invoice from a Standard Triumph dealer, in Brighton, charging me for the removal of the innards. This was some time ago. Richard & h. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted January 8, 2018 Report Share Posted January 8, 2018 Removal of innards is very simple if one has a vice (no ... not that one! ) and a wrench (note - I said wrench). Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted January 8, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2018 " if one has a vice . . . . . and a wrench " Cheers Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GT6M Posted January 8, 2018 Report Share Posted January 8, 2018 IF, this thingy is what I think it is, a RPV then why, doo all modern cars ev em fitted as standard And, if Ian was saying, it stuck the brakes on, was it plumbed in right as there 2 different pressures for different brakes me self, the one I got fitted { 4 wheel discs an 2 PSI } worked wonders for pedal travel and could actually go down a size in MC to get moer pressure for less leg force IF it aint a PRV, then some wise Sage pray tell just wot it is M Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted January 9, 2018 Report Share Posted January 9, 2018 GT6M - the restrictor failed on my TR2 (which had disc front brakes) after some 10 years. I imagine that the device had worn out or disintegrated internally. In order to reduce kick-back of the disc pistons, a better solution is to beef-up the stub axle, and there's a number of solutions already available from the well-known suppliers for this. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted January 9, 2018 Report Share Posted January 9, 2018 IF, this thingy is what I think it is, a RPV then why, doo all modern cars ev em fitted as standard And, if Ian was saying, it stuck the brakes on, was it plumbed in right as there 2 different pressures for different brakes me self, the one I got fitted { 4 wheel discs an 2 PSI } worked wonders for pedal travel and could actually go down a size in MC to get moer pressure for less leg force IF it aint a PRV, then some wise Sage pray tell just wot it is M GT6M Yes the item being discussed is a brake residual pressure maintaining valve or RPV Problem we have is that the original Girling item has a tendency to fail/stick causing the discs to lock on, this may also be because the factory set maintaining pressure is too high. I have had this issue, and resolved it by removing the valve....with the subsequent reappearance of a 'long' brake pedal after cornering. - as you mention, removal of pad knock back and long pedal means the possibility of dropping the mc diameter, thus improving brake pressure for given pedal afford.... and perhaps not needing a servo. Sideways discussed this a while back. A reliable 2 psi item would certainly be worth fitting/testing in a TR - I note the USA Wilwood offered item is with adaptors that should suit our SAE threaded brake pipes. Demon Tweaks do not offer this option as far as I can see. Racetorations sell a complete kit of two valves with all adaptors for TR etc. http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderProd.aspx?itemno=260-13783 In the UK with metric threads https://www.tmrsupplies.co.uk/products/brake-residual-pressure-valve-2psi-for-disc-brakes/ On reading, the USA seller's suggestion is that 2psi should go in the disc brake line and 10 psi in the drum brake line. Also issues about height of mc compared the callipers/slave cyls. Therefore..... Solid axle TR3-4 cars - Replace the existing valve which is in the inlet to the 5 or 4 way union under the bonnet on the RH chassis leg fed from the mc with a 2psi item. (bit of fun with threaded connectors here) Then fit the removed original item to between the 3 way union and the flex hose on the rear axle. Screws straight in. Additional valves in series do not have an accumulative affect so don't panic. Possibility of fitting the original valve the wrong way round - The original valve is error proofed in its design so cannot be fitted the wrong way round if installed where originally positioned using OE hardware. (NB not 'fool proofed' as no fool would own a TR) Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lynchpin Posted January 9, 2018 Report Share Posted January 9, 2018 Hi Back last year I finally traced the problem of the n/s front brake sticking,locking up on hard braking and running hot to be this particular valve, we simply took it apart cleaned out the c--p from the inside,cleaned the ball and spring and put it back together its been fine ever since with no pedal length problems at all.. Cheers Phil.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GT6M Posted January 9, 2018 Report Share Posted January 9, 2018 Thanks for the info Ladds, M Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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