MadMarx Posted January 14, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2018 damned! one of the tubes changed direction from welding. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MadMarx Posted January 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2018 (edited) flanges are flattened, all is fine and ready to install. As soon the other side is made, I fit the collector pipe to main exhaust. The best thing....the difference in tube length is smalle than I hoped ...just 5cm = 2". Edited February 12, 2018 by MadMarx Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MadMarx Posted January 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2018 Question: What do you think is better: 1. fitting the merge collector with springs to the header? 2. fitting the merge collector with a screwed tab to the header? I would prefer the first version but I'm afraid that If the exhaust hits the ground, the collector will be pulled off if held by springs. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted January 21, 2018 Report Share Posted January 21, 2018 Fine result Chris, well done. Spring fixings are OK if you have ample ground clearance . . . . . and little chance of 'hooking' the exhaust if you have an excursion onto the grass, or even the kerb. I'd be surprised if you do have that sort of clearance ? If not, then it's a bolted fixing and keep the fixing points at the side of or above the pipes, so no chance of hooking the fixings if you do investigate the scenery . . . . . also, try to keep the overlap join of pipes as smooth as possible, again to avoid hooking or snagging. You may find it worthwhile to braze or to solder (high temp solder) the lower arc of the pipe/collector joint/s to minimise any hooking potential and add strength ? If only the lower half is thus sealed, it's not difficult to remove with a decent flame torch . . . . Cheers Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MadMarx Posted January 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2018 As my car is not roling at the moment....have a look on this one: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MadMarx Posted January 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2018 Hi Alec, the clearance is quite low and I do see some dents on the more rear parts of the exhaust, especially if I use the tiny custom made mufflers under the car. They show grind marks from kissing the ground. So, I make these tabs with bolts. No problem. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted January 21, 2018 Report Share Posted January 21, 2018 The video sound track doesn't impress . . . . and as for the car, how does it manage to go that slow ??!! Bert's LM car or Diane's dragster would have cooked their engines in that time, pussyfooting around like the IMSA machine . . . . . Cheers, Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MadMarx Posted January 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2018 You're asking the same question. The owner said his engine has an idle speed at 800 RPM and a 3.9 final drive. My engine idles at 2000 RPM. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted January 22, 2018 Report Share Posted January 22, 2018 800rpm idle . . . . . ? Now that's what I call a road engine . . . . . The dragster doesn't do idle . . . . period. Cheers Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TriumphV8 Posted January 22, 2018 Report Share Posted January 22, 2018 The Rover has the same problem like the TR6, especially with hard valve springs. The lifters eat the cam! If idle needs to be that low an additional lubrication is necessary. I built one from the front of gallery where I removed an oil plug. Instead a banjo with a copper tube is fitted, running over the cam. It has little holes above the lobes. It is adapted from the Australian Harrier truck engine, where I had the chance to buy two of them. By the way a wonderfull race engine because the cylinder deck height is a little bit higher allowing longer rods. I have them rebored and sleeved to 94mm bore. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MadMarx Posted January 28, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2018 I know it is getting boring but I've started with the other side: This side is a little easier because no steering is in my way. I only need to take in account the gearbox oil cooling connectors. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TriumphV8 Posted January 28, 2018 Report Share Posted January 28, 2018 Not boring, I am just asking myself if you will get away without shaving the flange after the welding. Or did you plan to do so anyway? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MadMarx Posted January 28, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2018 On the left header it was enough to hammer them back in place. On this one I will weld them while they are screwed on this U260 to keep the flanges down. The rest will be done with the hammer again. A hammer is a fantastic tool. Developed long before stone age and still in use 'til today. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MadMarx Posted February 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2018 (edited) The right hand side header is ready to go and already connected with the rear part of the exhaust: I've changed my plan and used springs for connecting the 4 tubes to the collector. Lots of space for the 4 tubes. Interesting that nobody makes 4-1 systems off the shelf. Edited February 12, 2018 by MadMarx Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MadMarx Posted February 14, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2018 Ready to go: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MadMarx Posted February 14, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2018 And some other stuff arrived: Before: After: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted February 16, 2018 Report Share Posted February 16, 2018 That pipe work is a piece of art. I congratulate you. Whos LSD is that ? And those tyres ......... cant you find any bigger ? I think we need pics of the whole car with those fitted. H Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MadMarx Posted February 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2018 (edited) I'm not a good TIG welder. A proper welder has done about 100m of welding. On this exhaust I made about 2 meter of welds.....so my practice on this subject is very small which is for sure visible on the weld quality. But I prefer to learn and do things by myself, just in case I need it. The LSD is from Yukon/USA. I have already on of those in my 4.1 axle. This is for the 3.6 axle. The car is designed for 11.5" on front, and 13" on the rear. As those tires are not available in Europe I needed to downgrade to 10.5 on front, and 12.5 on rear. You want a photo? Edited February 16, 2018 by MadMarx Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted February 16, 2018 Report Share Posted February 16, 2018 Great stuff ???????????????????????? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MadMarx Posted February 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2018 (edited) I'm not happy. Yesterday evening I had filled up the cooling system. Today morning I found the coolant tank empty. I've filled it up again (3L) and I saw a small leak on the left engine side where the chain housing meets the block. I tried to block the leak with silicone and left it like this for the day. This evening the coolant tank was empty again but no puddle of water on the floor. Tomorrow I'll open the drain plug of the oil pan and see if there comes any water out. Maybe the system leaks to the inside. Not good engineered engine to have water and oil side by side, just seperated by a simple paper gasket. Edited February 17, 2018 by MadMarx Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted February 17, 2018 Report Share Posted February 17, 2018 That's bad news Christian, lets hope it's easily sorted. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted February 18, 2018 Report Share Posted February 18, 2018 Thats bl@@dy frustrating. Hope you find its an easy straightforward fix. H Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roy53 Posted February 18, 2018 Report Share Posted February 18, 2018 Not good news for you Criss but could it just be an air lock when refilling. Hope it is simple ROY Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MadMarx Posted February 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2018 As I thought....leak to inside. The gasket slipped off. Now cleaning everything and doing it again. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TriumphV8 Posted February 21, 2018 Report Share Posted February 21, 2018 Not good engineered engine to have water and oil side by side, just seperated by a simple paper gasket. Never had trouble in that area. There are two sorts of gaskets, one for the old oil pump and the other for the crank driven pump. The differ a little bit at the edge to the two waterways. Also some are thicker and have rubber around the waterways. I fit them with DIRKO on both sides. Wasnt the engine on the bench at Eales??? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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