Glue/cement ?

[pfenlon]

I have been making up a number plate receptacle for want of a better word for my car.

 

The front one I have made it slightly curved to imitate the shape of the grill its going on.

 

just 2 pieces of alloy a backing plate and a surround piece. The number will be stuck on with dual sided tape.

 

I have joined them together with "Bondo" but I'm not convinced that its good enough? (see pics.)

 

The rear plate s 3 times the size approximately that I intend to make.

 

has anyone used an adhesive that would permanently bond 2 pieces of alloy together?

 

Welding is not possible.

Edited December 1, 2017 by pfenlon

[Alec Pringle]

Hi Pete,

 

"Sticks Like Sh*t" did a good job for me a few years back, repairing aluminium alloy engine mounts of all things . . . . . and lasted some 40K miles and 3 years, still fine when the car concerned was scrapped.

 

I have glued a few other non-ferrous items, and SLS has worked well . . . . . the caveat here is that adhesives do seem to be reformulated on a regular basis, and the experience of 5 years ago isn't always borne out by current production . . . . .

 

Cheers

 

Alec

[rog1]

Might well be the solvent (or complete lack of it) content on some of these sticks like "..." options, as Alec says be wary.

 

Hopefully someone with better knowledge will advise.

 

Atb

[iain]

Adheseal from Innotec. Used to bond modern car panels on to shells/ skin to door frames etc.

Edited December 2, 2017 by iain

[had17462]

Gorilla double sided tape is very strong.

Nick

[RogerH]

Hi Pete,

there are many adhesives that will do your job but the crucial problem is cleaning the surface.

Easy to remove oil/grease but you need to remove the almost invisible corrosion products that Ali and its alloys produce.

 

Ali is usually chemically cleaned or anodised prior to bonding.

However to give it a really good chance immediately prior to using the adhesive of your choice (any Araldite will work even rapid setting) or the ones mentioned by Alec

scrub the surface with clean unused scotchbrite then go for the glue.

 

Lumiweld would be ideal or there is the Ali solder as seen at the NEC etc that goes on like solder but gives the effect of welding.

 

Roger

[Geko]

Key is to minimize de vibrations. I would start with shaping the brackets like a triangle not like a "V"

[Dave Herrod]

Pete,

I'm not sure I completely understand what you are trying to do, but I would look at the marine adhesive/sealants. Sikaflex 292 is one of the most widely used and does work very well, but there is a practical boat owner test on line that came up with sabatack 750 as the best for bonding metal.

Alternatively, back in the day, gripfil was a very good solvent based adhesive in the building industry that used to stick almost anything to anything. I know it is still sold but, as Alec points out, it could well have been "watered down"

Let us know how you get on.

Dave.

[pfenlon]

Some leads there that I had no idea of, the solder sounds very good but may be much more expensive, thanks for the tips, Pete.

[Ian Vincent]

As recommended by Roger, I've used Lumoweld in the past and found it a) very effective and easy to use.

 

Done from the back there would only be marginal cleaning up to be done on the front.

 

Rgds Ian

[TR NIALL]

Tech7 as used by all Irish Bodger's and available in a range of Colours,€12ish a Tube.

[Guest ntc]

Gorilla glue.

[pfenlon]

Job done the surround and the plate were held together with our postman's elastic bans that he leaves on the drive each week.

 

Rogers Araldite Rapid was used to do the job and it seems to have worked out well (Cheers Roger).

 

see Pics Dave. Now I have front and rear bespoke plate holders that look a treat, number plates are not plastic but very light fibre units.

 

Thanks again.

Edited December 2, 2017 by pfenlon

[Kevo_6]

Job done the surround and the plate were held together with our postman's elastic bans that he leaves on the drive each week.

 

Rogers Araldite Rapid was used to do the job and it seems to have worked out well (Cheers Roger).

 

see Pics Dave. Now I have front and rear bespoke plate holders that look a treat, number plates are not plastic but very light fibre units.

 

Thanks again.

That looks really neat Pete, well done.

You must have the same postie as me, bloody big round though...

[Dave Herrod]

Very neat!

[stuart]

Devon registration then Pete.

Stuart.

[pfenlon]

Devon registration then Pete.

Stuart.

Well is it? I didn't know that, it came as usual from the DVLA when you apply for your first registration Docs, I don't suppose they think to supply a local to where you reside reg number.

 

Stuart does this mean were almost neighbours!

[stuart]

Well is it? I didn't know that, it came as usual from the DVLA when you apply for your first registration Docs, I don't suppose they think to supply a local to where you reside reg number.

 

Stuart does this mean were almost neighbours!

Ha ha could be, when I registered my imported 4a I was lucky to get one of the last unused Cornish registrations which is good as most of the time you just get unused Scottish ones.

Stuart.

[pfenlon]

Ha ha could be, when I registered my imported 4a I was lucky to get one of the last unused Cornish registrations which is good as most of the time you just get unused Scottish ones.

Stuart.

So as well as being neighbours you don't have a real TR either, I suffer the same fate, my TR6 was also apparently built in a shed in Wyoming by a copycat TR firm.

 

Joshing, but I am still stunned by the amount of folk who would never consider an Import. but they are getting even rarer these days.