colin3511 Posted November 28, 2017 Report Share Posted November 28, 2017 I can't take the credit for this but I have posted it in case someone else may find it of benefit. It gives you clear access to everything. You need to modify the stand plate to fit. In my case an extra 10mm hole. Colin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
colin3511 Posted November 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2017 Attaching photo may help!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john.r.davies Posted November 29, 2017 Report Share Posted November 29, 2017 May I offer this slight alternative, the work of Nick Jones, of this and other parishes? Nick found that the intervening plate allowed the pivot axis of the stand to be at the block's CoG, so that turning it for work was a lot easier! John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nick Jones Posted November 29, 2017 Report Share Posted November 29, 2017 Just so. Works really well. For the record, I borrowed the idea from elsewhere..... Plagiarism being the sincerest form of flattery! Nick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
oldtuckunder Posted November 29, 2017 Report Share Posted November 29, 2017 May I offer this slight alternative, the work of Nick Jones, of this and other parishes? Ah that's where I stole the idea, works a treat doesn't it! NB. Make sure its a steel plate, I first made a plate of 1/4" Alloy, it bent! when I started torquing things up. Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 30, 2017 Report Share Posted November 30, 2017 Hi Alan, the clever people say the Ali Alloys can be stronger than steel (weight for weight) and this is true. BUT!!!! there are dozens and dozens of Ali alloys and many then have various temper states. Plus you then have people referring to pure Ali as an alloy. Good old mild steel is simply mild steel - you can't go wrong if you simply want something that you understand and recognise from experience. Ali alloys are created for a purpose - not purposes are the same. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
timpress Posted January 11, 2022 Report Share Posted January 11, 2022 Hi all, resurrecting this thread, does anyone have one of these plates for sale or know of a seller. I cant find where to get a plate that size machined so would happily buy one depending on the cost. Second hand works :-) Thanks Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
charlie74 Posted January 11, 2022 Report Share Posted January 11, 2022 Or posting a template would be nice, too. tia c74 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRier Posted January 11, 2022 Report Share Posted January 11, 2022 I’d have a slight concern about the loading on those top two 3/8th threaded holes for the engine mounting, is that valid? When you mount an engine on that stand usually, well any I’ve done in the past, you’re bolting straight though the bellhousing mounting holes in the block with a full bolt and nut, usually as large as you can manage. I’d have thought there was a moment of force here acting on those engine mount holes which is entirely different to the force they were designed to counter. Definitely great for access but it’d give me a twitchy feeling every time I went near it I think! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave McDonald Posted January 13, 2022 Report Share Posted January 13, 2022 See photo of my similar version. I can't claim to have given deep consideration to the loads on the engine mount threaded holes, but it seemed sensible to provide another fixing towards the back of the block in the 7/16"UNF threaded hole for the water jacket drain outlet, (left of photo) with a tube welded to my grey adaptor plate so that the bolt can be pulled up tight. At no time did I feel troubled by the integrity of the attachment. I did feel happier with the stability of the main support stand with the load closer across the stand than if it had been stuck out perpendicular to the stand using the back end bolts for attachment. It was well balanced when rotated through a full circle. Dave McD Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john.r.davies Posted January 13, 2022 Report Share Posted January 13, 2022 While admire the ingenuity of the side mount system, there are two problems with the end mount position. 1/ if the stand is bolted up using the rear engine plate bolts, they are only 5/16 and four of them, lees than the plate uses. It must be quite a strain 2/ Solve that by using a spare rear plate, and drilling out the edge holes to use 7/16 and all the rear plate holes may be used. But then access is difficult to install the rear crank oil seal. Solution:. Cut a *'&:; big hole in the spare plate! Bigger than the seal housing. Mine is painted bright red, just in case I ever tried to assemble it to a new engine! John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PodOne Posted January 13, 2022 Report Share Posted January 13, 2022 Just for interest my complete engine while awaiting a rebuild was side mounted on the engine stand direct to the engine mount as above to save space for around 2 years and rebuilt the same way with no issues. I was able to turn it as required after my Weetabix! What concerned me more was the small size of the four bolts holding original lifting eyes to the engine with the box attached they seemed marginal given the weight. Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRier Posted January 13, 2022 Report Share Posted January 13, 2022 5 hours ago, Dave McDonald said: See photo of my similar version. I can't claim to have given deep consideration to the loads on the engine mount threaded holes, but it seemed sensible to provide another fixing towards the back of the block in the 7/16"UNF threaded hole for the water jacket drain outlet, (left of photo) with a tube welded to my grey adaptor plate so that the bolt can be pulled up tight. At no time did I feel troubled by the integrity of the attachment. I did feel happier with the stability of the main support stand with the load closer across the stand than if it had been stuck out perpendicular to the stand using the back end bolts for attachment. It was well balanced when rotated through a full circle. Dave McD Yep, I’d be more comfortable with this set up. I totally agree that side mounting is going to be way more useful than the rear I just felt a bit twitchy about the standard engine mounting holes. This set up above would cover that off for me. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRier Posted January 13, 2022 Report Share Posted January 13, 2022 22 minutes ago, PodOne said: Just for interest my complete engine while awaiting a rebuild was side mounted on the engine stand direct to the engine mount as above to save space for around 2 years and rebuilt the same way with no issues. I was able to turn it as required after my Weetabix! What concerned me more was the small size of the four bolts holding original lifting eyes to the engine with the box attached they seemed marginal given the weight. Andy I’d agree with this too, I just lifted the engine and box on and off my chassis for test fitting a couple of times over the weekend and wow it does give those brackets hell. Very marginal. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ed_h Posted January 14, 2022 Report Share Posted January 14, 2022 My stand suspends the engine from both sides and allows it to flip end over end. It gave exemplary service during both my TR6 and GT6 restoration campaigns. It's retired now, and might be available for adoption if someone wants to collect it. Ed Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRier Posted January 14, 2022 Report Share Posted January 14, 2022 6 hours ago, ed_h said: My stand suspends the engine from both sides and allows it to flip end over end. It gave exemplary service during both my TR6 and GT6 restoration campaigns. It's retired now, and might be available for adoption if someone wants to collect it. Ed Good one, with an additional bolt on piece and a lock this one could be used to actually run the engine on where.needed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kenrow Posted January 15, 2022 Report Share Posted January 15, 2022 (edited) On 1/13/2022 at 5:06 PM, ed_h said: My stand suspends the engine from both sides and allows it to flip end over end. It gave exemplary service during both my TR6 and GT6 restoration campaigns. It's retired now, and might be available for adoption if someone wants to collect it. Ed Too bad your not in California... Edited January 15, 2022 by Kenrow spelling Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.