tr3a Solid state Regulator RB106

[Richardtr3a]

I have an overhauled unit which has to go back to the supplier once a year for adjustment. I need a long term answer.I have been offered a solid state alternative to the RB106 on my dynamo fitted 3A.

 

This is quite a new product and I can not see any reviews. Has any one here any experience? It is very expensive but may work well .

 

Please let me know what you think

 

Thanks Richard & H..

[RobH]

Why does your present unit need frequent adjustment Richard ? Once set they should function for years without any need to touch them.

[stuart]

There have been solid state ones around in the US but they proved to be short lived in service.Your present unit once set should never really need adjustment.

Stuart.

[Charlie D]

Richard,

 

I would guess some cheeky so and so has come up with a money making scam.

“We can overhaul it but you MUST send it back every 12 months for adjustment.”

(I assume there is a charge for the "Adjustment".)

 

 

Really annoys me that kind of thing. Almost fraud.

 

Charlie D.

[cbxman]

My tuppence worth. I use a dynomoregulators.com DVR 3 on my C40 generator. The old regulators, aren't really regulators, they treat your battery very badly, even when adjusted correctly. The electronic regulator cossets your battery, and charging commences earlier too. The ammeter never bangs over to full charge any more It never over-volts etc... I'm very happy with mine. Usual disclaimers. Just happy with mine

 

Cheers,

Jerry

[Lebro]

My threppunce (is that a word?) worth.

 

I have fitted a "Classic Dynamo & Regulator Conversions" solid state regulator to my 1935 Hillman (6 volt)

Very pleased with it.

 

http://www.dynamoregulatorconversions.com/

 

Don't need one on the TR as I have an alternator fitted

 

Bob.

[RobH]

"The old regulators, aren't really regulators, treat your battery very badly, even when adjusted correctly."

 

What makes you say that Jerry because it is really not true ? The mechanical regulator is just fine when adjusted correctly as witness their successful use over many tens of years in millions of cars. A lead-acid battery is surprisingly robust and has no problem with the mechanical regulator's switching rate if that is what you mean. You also seem to think that the mechanical ones are not regulators when in fact that is exactly their designed function - thought they do it by 'switching' rather than linearly. In fact you could say they are digital devices using pulse-width modulation - whereas the electronic ones are usually analogue (which is why your DVR3 will get warm in use as the series element is continuously dissipating).

 

The only advantage of the electronic regulator is that it should not go out of adjustment whereas the mechanical one will eventually do so after decades of use, as the contacts wear.

[cbxman]

Rob,

 

The old regulators will over volt the battery (and other components )momentarily and you are right about about pulse width angle though .. brutal and slow. Many millions were indeed fitted, but only because there was nothing better at the time.

 

The electronic regulator is much smoother in the way it responds to load and the output of the generator. Without hacking the potting resin out and examining the circuit, it would be difficult to figure out whether it is a series pass regulator, or a switching regulator. I do know that it remains stone cold even when at full charge. I have put it on a heatsink though just to be safe.

 

There must be a reason why alternators have electronic regulators in them these days and not relays.

 

To keep the original look in the engine bay, I have mounted it in the old RB30 case, drilled some ventilation holes in the bottom and the back of the cover.

 

Jerry

[RobH]

The internal impedance of the battery and and the inductance/resistance of the rest of the circuitry means the battery comes to no harm from the pulsing Jerry (in fact there is a school of thought which advocates 'pulse charging' as a means of combating sulphation). I am not arguing about the superior linearity of the semiconductor device - just pointing out that your condemnation of the mechanical one is not warranted (Mainly in case others reading these comments get the wrong idea about their set-ups and start to panic). I believe the DVR3 regulator is a simple series-linear device and the manufacturer mentions the need for heat-sinking in their blurb.

[Richardtr3a]

Hi Bob,

 

That is exactly the one that I have been looking at. The company is new and they work long hours. I have had email replies at 7.00a.m. and also late in the evening.

 

They claim to be high quality and properly designed and tested.

 

As long as it works on your Hillman I will put it on my Christmas list for the grandchildren contribution.

 

Has anyone else fitted one?

 

Thanks Richard & H.

[cbxman]

The internal impedance of the battery and and the inductance/resistance of the rest of the circuitry means the battery comes to no harm from the pulsing Jerry (in fact there is a school of thought which advocates 'pulse charging' as a means of combating sulphation). I am not arguing about the superior linearity of the semiconductor device - just pointing out that your condemnation of the mechanical one is not warranted (Mainly in case others reading these comments get the wrong idea about their set-ups and start to panic). I believe the DVR3 regulator is a simple series-linear device and the manufacturer mentions the need for heat-sinking in their blurb.

 

Rob. In principle what you say sounds OK, but although the the internal impedance of the battery is very low, the wiring to the battery from the regulator probably represents the largest resistance of the circuit. This means that any electrical equipment, like a radio is subjected to these spikes before the battery quietly ignores it.

 

Nevertheless, you are right that it is not really a big issue in real terms, and no-one should go and rip out their old regulator along with their hair!. I had to buy a new one, so I went electronic. Simple.

 

Cheers,

 

Jerry

[Richardtr3a]

Richard,

 

I would guess some cheeky so and so has come up with a money making scam.

 

“We can overhaul it but you MUST send it back every 12 months for adjustment.”

(I assume there is a charge for the "Adjustment".)

 

 

Really annoys me that kind of thing. Almost fraud.

 

Charlie D.

Hi Charlie.

 

I send one back approximately every 12 months after I have found no charge, or the red light on. or not showing at low revs. Usually I remove the lid and flick the contacts with my thumb. After a few goes at this over some months, I send it back for contact cleaning and adjustment. The refurbishment company only charge for postage. I have three regulators and one is always in the boot. I heard that Lucas made £5.00 every time someone opened the box and tried to set the points.

I have bought new ones also. But They have a very short life and the cheap ones use reclaimed copper which is not up to the job. I have given up on the new ones. It looks like a leap forward into the unknown world of solid state.

 

Thanks Richard & H

[RobH]

There is obviously something very odd Richard, perhaps with the way you are garaging or using the car. That sort of thing just should not happen under normal circumstances. Perhaps the atmosphere around your area is particularly corrosive or the garage very damp. The contacts should clean themslves if you use the car regularly.

 

A solid state regulator will be less affected as it is usually encapsulated - so for you, perhaps the way to go as you say.

[Dick]

My threppunce (is that a word?) worth.

 

I have fitted a "Classic Dynamo & Regulator Conversions" solid state regulator to my 1935 Hillman (6 volt)

Very pleased with it.

 

http://www.dynamoregulatorconversions.com/

 

Don't need one on the TR as I have an alternator fitted

 

Bob.

Hi Bob,

 

Is your Hillman a third brush constant current dynamo? I am intending to fit an electronic regulator to my Rotax 12/24v dynastart.

 

Regards,

Dick

[Charlie D]

Richard,

 

In that case I must apologize for suggesting that your supplier might have been a scammer.

 

But it is a bit odd. A company rebuilds a unit, which in the old days would have lasted 10+ years without attention, yet offers to have it back once a year without charge to re-adjust it.

 

As Rob says, “…Perhaps the atmosphere around your area is particularly corrosive…”

 

I note that you live in London.

Ahhhh…. All those wood burning stoves and London Taxis pushing out pollution… That must be it.

 

 

Charlie D.

[Lebro]

Hi Bob,

 

Is your Hillman a third brush constant current dynamo? I am intending to fit an electronic regulator to my Rotax 12/24v dynastart.

 

Regards,

Dick

Hi Dick.

It was originally a three brush dynamo, but not constant current. When I got the car a regulator had been fitted (same style as TR3, but 6V)

so I removed the third brush, & connected it's wire direct to earth, thus maximising the output.

Over the years the regulating contacts occasionally got welded together causing overcharging, so I bit the bullet, & went for the solid state one.

 

Bob.

[Ian Vincent]

Many years ago, I had a regulator that would occasionally weld the points together. Turned out there was an intermittent short in one of the filed coils that was causing it.

 

Rgds Ian