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Hi Folks,

Last year I replaced the nearside door hinges on the 4A.

Pricewise they were not too frightening.

Today I replaced the top hinge on the offside of the 4A. I bought two as I was expecting to change two - this time the price was frightening at £54 the pair.

 

I replaced the seized one with a new one and then attempted to free up the old one.

It really didn't want to play ball. So I took a big hammer to it and removed the pivot pin (very stiff)

The pin was not rusty at all but there was a fair bit of rusty residue on the bore of the hinge plate.

 

Before re-assembling I decided to fit a grease nipple so that routine greasing can take place.

Annoyingly the nipple can't stay in pace when the car is being used - the movable hinge on the door hits the nipple.

Not a great problem as the nipple can be removed and fitted as and when.

 

The hole is 1/4UNF

 

Most of the new ones at the shop were actually stiffer than my seized one. I was invited to rummage through and get a good pair :o:o

 

Roger

 

 

post-4113-0-49825600-1509211233_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

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Hi Folks,

Last year I replaced the nearside door hinges on the 4A.

Pricewise they were not too frightening.

Today I replaced the top hinge on the offside of the 4A. I bought two as I was expecting to change two - this time the price was frightening at £54 the pair.

 

I replaced the seized one with a new one and then attempted to free up the old one.

It really didn't want to play ball. So I took a big hammer to it and removed the pivot pin (very stiff)

The pin was not rusty at all but there was a fair bit of rusty residue on the bore of the hinge plate.

 

Before re-assembling I decided to fit a grease nipple so that routine greasing can take place.

Annoyingly the nipple can't stay in pace when the car is being used - the movable hinge on the door hits the nipple.

Not a great problem as the nipple can be removed and fitted as and when.

 

The hole is 1/4UNF

 

Most of the new ones at the shop were actually stiffer than my seized one. I was invited to rummage through and get a good pair :o:o

 

Roger

 

attachicon.gifP1060389a.jpg

attachicon.gifP1060390a.jpg

 

 

 

Roger there must be a reason that you didn't ream them out and fit a silver steel pin?

 

it would have been far cheaper and longer lasting.

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Hi Pete,

silver steel can still go rusty. I was considering opening out the bore and fitting a bronze bush.

However the only problem I can see is the lack of lubrication. The grease nipple will sort that.

 

Having seen a box of 100+ hinges today there wouldn't have been a pin heads worth of oil/grease on the pins.

 

Roger

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There are "flush" mount nipples which will stay proud by only 1 or 2 mm and can be nourished with a needle grease gun

My Boxford lathe has something like these grease nipples and I had to get a pointy tipped attachment for the grease gun.

 

http://fzc168.en.alibaba.com/product/585054160-210631824/grease_gun_accessories_pointed_nozzle.html

 

http://www.pneumaticoilpumps.com/china-reentering_type_plastic_grease_gun_with_pointed_nozzle_air_powered_grease_guns-4462114.html

 

Not hard to make one on the lathe to fit your grease gun Roger.....

 

Peter W

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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There are wide variations in the quality of these hinges. The expensive ones are the Bastuck ones which are generally pretty good though stiff to start (nothing wrong with that!) The cheaper versions will usually be found to have more play than the originals you are trying to replace. Price does make a difference Im afraid.

Stuart.

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I fitted my TR3a hinges with a larger pin by reaming out and fitted a grease nipple which is located so that it doesn't need to be removed. Cheap and effective.

 

Rgds Ian

Very different hinges unfortunately.

Stuart.

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Hi Roger,

 

Any tips on getting old pins out, particularly broken ones? I have a couple of hinges which need changing. I bought new pins but was particularly unsuccessful in getting the old ones out with hammer and punch :angry:

 

Many thanks

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Hi Roger,

 

Any tips on getting old pins out, particularly broken ones? I have a couple of hinges which need changing. I bought new pins but was particularly unsuccessful in getting the old ones out with hammer and punch :angry:

 

Many thanks

My pins were difficult, particularly the broken one. I had t resort to welding a small bar to one end. Some pics here: http://bullfire.net/TR6/TR6-62/TR6-62.html

 

Ed

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Hi Sean,

basically as Ed has shown (rather well at that). One ens if the shaft should have splines and the other is plain,

Knock it out splines first.

Hold the hinge very tightly in a decent vice in such a way that an edge of the clamped hinge plate sits over the vice and stops it being bashed down.

Using a as big a pin puch that will fit and as big a hammer as you own (7lb club hammer) give it a positive and well directed whack.

 

If it proves really difficult, soak the hinge in a bowl of penetrating fluid for an hour or so.

 

Some new pins come with splines at both ends :o These may prove a problem.

 

Roger

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To remove old pins I used a propane torch, the same that is used for soldering etc, and heated the hinge.

Then with a decent size hammer and as large as possible punch it came out, but not "easy" .

It is important to properly support the hinge in the vise to all the hammer energy goes into the pin.

I placed an old nut between the vise and the pin for this.

I ordered some new pins, think from Moss, and they were slightly larger, so with an adjustable reamer (which costs 5 euros), I was able to make a nice stiff fit. Lubed it wit Moly grease before assembly. Good result.

Waldi

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  • 4 years later...

Hi All, The passenger side of my TR4 (ex US car so this was the driver's door for most of the car's life) does not shut well.  It needs s good slam and even then does not close well.  There is some play in the hinges but I was wondering how much is normal?  Should there be no play at all or is some acceptable?  I'm thinking to replace the hinges anyway (or refurbish the old ones but this seems tricky) but want to get quality replacements - does anyone know who stocks the bastuck ones?

Thanks

Myles

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1 hour ago, woodward said:

Hi All, The passenger side of my TR4 (ex US car so this was the driver's door for most of the car's life) does not shut well.  It needs s good slam and even then does not close well.  There is some play in the hinges but I was wondering how much is normal?  Should there be no play at all or is some acceptable?  I'm thinking to replace the hinges anyway (or refurbish the old ones but this seems tricky) but want to get quality replacements - does anyone know who stocks the bastuck ones?

Thanks

Myles

TR Shop has them if you ask.

Stuart.

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My hinge pins had to be drilled out - a friend in the South Glamorgan group tried heat and a 50 ton press, which didn't work! He very kindly drilled them oversize and fitted bushes.

Pete

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