Chris59 Posted January 31, 2018 Report Share Posted January 31, 2018 Oops...... Hope you weren't hurt. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 31, 2018 Report Share Posted January 31, 2018 Hi Stef. that is most impressive. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Geko Posted January 31, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2018 (edited) I was with my son going to watch Maze Runner, we didn't. Instead I went back home and picked up one of my old brackets, loaded the jack and toolbox and replaced the bracket in situ with the spare outer bracket which I fitted upside down to get a similar angle as the inner one, enough to get back home 1 hour ago. I rather not imagine if this would have happened at speed....Same pattern as the old brackets. The culprits are quality, springs and speed breakers in KL. Asked TR shop to look for heavy duty ones. Movie is for tomorrow nite. pfff... Edited January 31, 2018 by Geko Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted January 31, 2018 Report Share Posted January 31, 2018 I think that might well be described as probably warranty items. The supplier should be taking note and action quickly. Peter W Off on another tack.... I have enjoyed reading this info about adjusting camber on the rear of IRS TR. http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/TrailingArmKit.htm http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Suspension/AdjRS/AdjRS.htm http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Suspension/RSGeometry/RSGeometry.htm Quote Link to post Share on other sites
barkerwilliams Posted January 31, 2018 Report Share Posted January 31, 2018 I would have thought worse that warranty, more of a safety component issue. Report it & perhaps prevent someone else's accident::- https://www.gov.uk/vehicle-recalls-and-faults/report-a-serious-safety-defect Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ChrisR-4A Posted January 31, 2018 Report Share Posted January 31, 2018 Don't know if a search would bring up previous posts which showed early ( maybe original) brackets were 1-1.5 mm thinner than those sold today. The ones removed from my car 10 years ago were and both had cracks. Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roy53 Posted February 1, 2018 Report Share Posted February 1, 2018 Now that is BAD Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted February 1, 2018 Report Share Posted February 1, 2018 Obviously made of cheese! Wrong spec steel Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted February 3, 2018 Report Share Posted February 3, 2018 (edited) Or fabrication issue; it would be a good practice to stress relieve these brackets after forming since bending with such a sharp radius results in high residual stresses which promote fatigue cracking. The brackets are exposed to dynamic (alternating) loads. Ductility of the base material may be another cause. If I were the supplier, I would be nervous and investigate. Regards, Waldi Edited February 3, 2018 by Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Geko Posted February 6, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2018 (edited) I think you're right. I'm pasting TR shop's answer for educational purpose: "We have also been investigating the brackets – please see the attached photos. The trailing arm brackets have been withdrawn from our stocks and we are not selling any more of these until we are happy with the quality. We have been comparing the brackets to original brackets and from another supplier. However, we are not really much wiser about the quality and what would be best for you. Notches Bracket Thickness Distance(internal) between sides 1 Original 0.200” 2.465” 1 Moss 0.191” 2.690” 1 2nd supplier 0.194” 2.549” 2 Original 0.210” 2.590” 2 2nd supplier 0.210” 2.513” The brackets that we sent you are from the ‘2nd supplier’; We chose these 1 notch brackets because we noticed the crease in the middle of the Moss brackets and were worried this may cause a problem; The Moss bracket was thinner and also had a bigger gap between the two sides than the original and the 2nd supplier’s bracket. On appearance, the 2nd suppliers bracket seemed closer to the original and we thought these would be better. We did not notice the sharp bends on the insides compared to the smoother bends on the original bracket and the moss bracket. The 2 notch brackets (also from the 2nd supplier) had the same thickness as the original and a similar gap. The bends on these brackets also appeared fairly similar to the originals. Unfortunately, we do not have uprated trailing arm brackets available. Regarding how to proceed we have a few options for you. If you would like a full refund for these brackets that is not a problem – we are happy to do this. Alternatively we can supply the Moss trailing arm brackets if you think that these will be better. Please note, there will be no further warranty if doing this as these brackets are under investigation. Or we could supply you with used original trailing arm brackets. Please note, the used brackets are several years old and also may not be as strong as when they were new (...)" Edited February 6, 2018 by Geko Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 6, 2018 Report Share Posted February 6, 2018 Hi Geko, the Moss bracket with the curved face with the holes i believe is correct. When bolted down it closes the sides and gives a side/side measurement similar to the old unit. The curved face may assist in keeping the bracket locked in place. The bend radius on the 2nd supplier bracket is not good. It is thick material and requires a large radius. The original and the Moss item, with the bigger radius, have had no previous issues. It would be interesting to get a material spec of all three brackets. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Geko Posted February 6, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2018 Hi Geko, the Moss bracket with the curved face with the holes i believe is correct. When bolted down it closes the sides and gives a side/side measurement similar to the old unit. The curved face may assist in keeping the bracket locked in place. The bend radius on the 2nd supplier bracket is not good. It is thick material and requires a large radius. The original and the Moss item, with the bigger radius, have had no previous issues. It would be interesting to get a material spec of all three brackets. Roger Hi Roger, yep, that was my reply. I didn't suck it from my thumb but I seem to remember that you'd mentioned it in a previous post. "thanks for your comprehensive reply. I’ll go for the MOSS inner 1 notch (2X) and outer 2 notch (1X). I suspect that the crease in the MOSS brackets is actually designed to expand the contact between the flat surface of the bracket and the shims so as to provide better grip. The gap between the brackets arms will narrow while tightening the nuts" Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted February 6, 2018 Report Share Posted February 6, 2018 Hi Geko (Stef?), With the uncertainty of the new brackets I would get used brackets, not corroded or damaged, gritblast and inspect for (hairline) cracks. Wirebrush cleaning may leave these small (narrow) cracks undetected so is not recommended. You can use dye penetrant inspection if in doubt after visual inspection. If cracks were soaked in thin oil or better diesel before final gritblasting, that may show bleeding too, but dye penetrant is a relative easy way of doing this. Roger is the true expert, he may give more guidance. Regards, Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 6, 2018 Report Share Posted February 6, 2018 (edited) Tut tut, Naughty Waldi, dye pen on Ferrous material. It is normal to use a Magnetic Particle Inspection (MPI) on Ferrous material as the need for scrupulous cleaning is removed and crack detection improved. As for your thin oil or Diesel that indeed would work as it did in the very early days of NDT (oil & Chalk). You do not need any grand equipment for MPI. The pic below was done with a big horse SHOE magnet (I mean BIG) Roger Edited February 7, 2018 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted February 6, 2018 Report Share Posted February 6, 2018 You'd need a big magnet for a horse, of course. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted February 6, 2018 Report Share Posted February 6, 2018 Stef are you saying that the brackets that broke came from TR Shop? Or made by local supplier? Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted February 6, 2018 Report Share Posted February 6, 2018 I know an old lady ----- Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Geko Posted February 6, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2018 Stef are you saying that the brackets that broke came from TR Shop? Or made by local supplier? Stuart. They were sold to me by TR Shop, which got them from another supplier - unidentified ("2nd supplier") Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted February 6, 2018 Report Share Posted February 6, 2018 Hmm OK I hope they are now tracing where they have sold all the rest of them and getting them back PDQ. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DaveN Posted February 6, 2018 Report Share Posted February 6, 2018 My two pence worth! Get new brackets and polish the edges. Draw filing with a very fine file then finish off with say 800 wet n dry. That should get rid of the stress raisers on the edge of the bends. Also polish the internal and external radii. Ultimately we need to know the material spec and heat treatments if used. I bought new ones for mine from the ‘second supplier’ (my guess) but elected to blast and clean up the old original ones. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 6, 2018 Report Share Posted February 6, 2018 Stef are you saying that the brackets that broke came from TR Shop? Or made by local supplier? Stuart. Hi Stuart, I can't imagine for a moment that they will follow up the sales but it would be good to think they would as it is quite serious (and probably easy to do). One of the other big suppliers had a problem with a GB lay shaft that was rather soft. Quite a few sold - look out for dying TR6 gearboxs Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted February 7, 2018 Report Share Posted February 7, 2018 Hi Roger, I thought most of us would not have been in the cavalry (big horse magnet, and no, I wasnt) so thought dpi would be a good alternative but it indeed requires good cleaning, best by grit blasting. Tut tut, Naughty Waldi, dye pen on Ferrous material. It is normal to use a Magnetic Particle Inspection (MPI) on Ferrous material as the need for scrupulous cleaning is removed and crack detection improved. As for your thin oil or Diesel that indeed would work as it did in the very early days of NDT (oil & Chalk). You do not need any grand equipment for MPI. The pic below was done with a big horse magnet (I mean BIG) Roger P1020449ab.jpg Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 7, 2018 Report Share Posted February 7, 2018 Hi Waldi, a great many experiments have been carried to determine if 'grit' blasting will close up the surface of a crack. It certainly can if you get the combination of parent material/blasting media/process wrong. More important with Aluminium alloys but steel can be affected. As for this big horse !!!!!! Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted February 7, 2018 Report Share Posted February 7, 2018 Roger, This confirms you are rhe true inspection expert???? Your humble mechanical engineer, Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Geko Posted February 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2018 Another disaster averted. Wondered why my front end was wobbly.....On for a chassis strengthening kit and uprated brackets which I fortunately have in store. Thanks to KL potholes and speed bumps Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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