Jersey Royal Posted October 20, 2017 Report Share Posted October 20, 2017 Hi All, A mate over here has had issues with his wiper motor in his TR 250 whilst on a recent trip to France. Hes now got a rebuilt one that he wants to fit. However hes having problems and cant work out how to remove the old one from the engine bay. It cant be difficult but he seems to think it is, hes not a spanner man but tries , bless him. Can anyone advise me on this, I havent had a look myself yet. Thanks Guy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 20, 2017 Report Share Posted October 20, 2017 Hi Guy, nice to see you back. This is how I did it just a few weeks ago on the 4A (same motor). Remove the wiper blades Undo the big nut at the front of the wiper motor (3/4 AF) Remove the one screw you can see in the engine bay Remove the two screws inside the car on the bulkhead immediately below the motor. Pull the motor towards the wing and forward. Remove the four little screws holding the lid down. Put a mark on the round dome (self park) so it goes back in exactly the same position. Remove the lid. Remove the 'C' clip holding the self park contact, remove the clip. Lift the oscillating plunger from the gear wheel Remove the motor body. Refit is opposite. If you have a decent auto electrician on the island they should be able to rebuild your old one. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted October 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2017 Hi Guy, nice to see you back. This is how I did it just a few weeks ago on the 4A (same motor). Remove the wiper blades Undo the big nut at the front of the wiper motor (3/4 AF) Remove the one screw you can see in the engine bay Remove the two screws inside the car on the bulkhead immediately below the motor. Pull the motor towards the wing and forward. Remove the four little screws holding the lid down. Put a mark on the round dome (self park) so it goes back in exactly the same position. Remove the lid. Remove the 'C' clip holding the self park contact, remove the clip. Lift the oscillating plunger from the gear wheel Remove the motor body. Refit is opposite. If you have a decent auto electrician on the island they should be able to rebuild your old one. Roger Hi Roger Thanks for that. From you detailed description, he hasn’t found the two screws in the footwell. Cheers Guy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 20, 2017 Report Share Posted October 20, 2017 Hi Guy, put head in the footwell and look up/forward and to the left slightly. The screw heads are close to the right angle edge of the vertical/horizontal bulkhead They may be behind the wiring loom. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 20, 2017 Report Share Posted October 20, 2017 They are just under where the plenum bulges out, you may find the eyeball hose is in the way. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted October 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2017 Great Thanks Roger and Stuart. All the Best Guy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted October 20, 2017 Report Share Posted October 20, 2017 Undoing the bit nut can split the motor casing if it's tight or cross-threaded. Use an adjustable spanner to support the casing. OR Pull the horseshoe clip, lift the crank-arm out and release the wire-rack from the motor casing without undoing the big nut. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted October 20, 2017 Report Share Posted October 20, 2017 PS Do not let him throw the old motor away if the replacement was non exchange. Offer it on here if it is a genuine TR250 unit. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted October 20, 2017 Report Share Posted October 20, 2017 Undoing the bit nut can split the motor casing if it's tight or cross-threaded. Use an adjustable spanner to support the casing. OR Pull the horseshoe clip, lift the crank-arm out and release the wire-rack from the motor casing without undoing the big nut. Spot on Guy you have email Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted October 21, 2017 Report Share Posted October 21, 2017 The part that holds the wire-rack nut/nipple is really pretty weak and will NOT stand any abuse. If you have removed the cover-plate it stands no chance of acting as a "spanner". People often try to remove these by prising up the crank-arm to free it from the rack-end. This works in the sense that you can get it out. But you bend the arm and may pull out the big-end bush. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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