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Hi

Just a long shot but has anyone got a heater matrix they dont require

Just gone to fit mine and it looks like its had frost damage

Thanks

Tony

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Hi Tony I struggled for a matrix and did not want to give Moss over £400 for one, I did consider one of the modern tubular ones, but in the end a guy in the landrover club supplied a used one for me for my TR2 i.e. converted with straight pipes exiting as per original matrix.cost was £90 all in, let me know if your interested and I will try and sort something out for you. Martin

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How does the standard Smiths heater fit into that flap? Simply by being in the same general area, as far as i can tell -- the T7Designs would do the same.

 

(I have one here on my shelves -- a nicely-made, seriously-compact item -- that's a potential wintertime project to install.)

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That looks to be a good option Stuart but how does it fit into the air intake/vent flap?

It doesnt really as neither does the original. It sits directly under the vent so the air flows through the rad and out through the vents, you do have a little fabrication of brackets required but nothing difficult (B&Q do some handy bar perfect to make brackets from)

Fit as below, other bonus apart from a very good heater is you then have more room behind your centre instrument panel for the wiring and to allow the choke cable to sit properly

Stuart.

post-3753-0-66096800-1507562568_thumb.jpg

post-3753-0-52500600-1507562577_thumb.jpg

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+1

Its a great piece of kit, it works with the Rheostat switch, its compact , it creates more room behind the dash and it generates serious heat/demist capability. Great recommendation from Stuart.

 

Iain

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Just had a good browse though their website. Looks like a nicely produced and powerful unit (built here in the UK too).

 

Thinking of placing an order, but I see they offer various different sized outlets for the demist vent tubes. I'm away from the car at the moment, and can't remember if I'd need a 1.25" or 1.5" diameter outlet. Anyone happen to know the correct size for a 3A?

 

Cheers, Deggers

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Just had a good browse though their website. Looks like a nicely produced and powerful unit (built here in the UK too).

 

Thinking of placing an order, but I see they offer various different sized outlets for the demist vent tubes. I'm away from the car at the moment, and can't remember if I'd need a 1.25" or 1.5" diameter outlet. Anyone happen to know the correct size for a 3A?

 

Cheers, Deggers

1.25" is correct for original cardboard hoses and FWIW the same size as vacuum cleaner hose too which is a favourite replacement when your originals have disappeared or disintegrated.

Stuart.

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1.25" is correct for original cardboard hoses and FWIW the same size as vacuum cleaner hose too which is a favourite replacement when your originals have disappeared or disintegrated.

Stuart.

 

...and Adam of T7Design does some nifty 3D-printed outlets for demister hose sizes like those on our TRs.

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  • 3 years later...
  • 2 weeks later...
On 10/9/2017 at 4:55 AM, stuart said:

 

Hi Stuart, the link is defunct.  I had a look at the T7 site and believe this is the same heater.

 

https://www.t7design.co.uk/catalog/product/view/id/288/s/3-5kw-lightweight-heater-with-side-vents-12v/

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10 hours ago, David Owen said:

 

Hi Stuart, the link is defunct.  I had a look at the T7 site and believe this is the same heater.

 

https://www.t7design.co.uk/catalog/product/view/id/288/s/3-5kw-lightweight-heater-with-side-vents-12v/

Yes thats the one I use.

Stuart.

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 11/1/2020 at 5:32 AM, stuart said:

Yes thats the one I use.

Stuart.

Hi Stuart,

I have decided to refurbish the original heater and put it on the shelf.  I am ordering the T7 heater.  Did you happen to document the brackets you made?  I do not have the equipment to do this myself and I will need to give it to a fabrication shop.

 

Cheers,

David

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2 hours ago, Drewmotty said:

This newsletter has a section describing how I fitted my T7 heater including a photo of the very simple bracket. 
 

https://www.tr-register.co.uk/group/devon/social-report/2020/04/1694/In-the-Garage-April-20

 

 

 

Thanks Drew.  That is very helpful.  All of it.

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14 hours ago, David Owen said:

Hi Stuart,

I have decided to refurbish the original heater and put it on the shelf.  I am ordering the T7 heater.  Did you happen to document the brackets you made?  I do not have the equipment to do this myself and I will need to give it to a fabrication shop.

 

Cheers,

David

I prefer to fit mine this way as its easier for pipes and gives good airflow into the heater rad.

Stuart.

1937339779_011(2).thumb.JPG.94ca365d70b2ae8e071e0e43905560ce.JPG

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I’ve fitted mine vertically with the matrix facing the bulkhead.The vents  are below the dash supports for easy access when seated, the connections are at the top to ensure that there are no air locks in the matrix, it allows a bit more room for the electrics behind the instrument panel and means that the bracket can be a simple length of angle iron. 

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I've tried both, originally in Stuarts orientation, now just refitted like Andrews because access to the vents is so much easier (and the  space behind the dash is a revelation!) , .....I will report on the results when back on the road.

 

 

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6 hours ago, Drewmotty said:

I’ve fitted mine vertically with the matrix facing the bulkhead.The vents  are below the dash supports for easy access when seated, the connections are at the top to ensure that there are no air locks in the matrix, it allows a bit more room for the electrics behind the instrument panel and means that the bracket can be a simple length of angle iron. 

 

1 hour ago, iain said:

I've tried both, originally in Stuarts orientation, now just refitted like Andrews because access to the vents is so much easier (and the  space behind the dash is a revelation!) , .....I will report on the results when back on the road.

 

 

Concerns, real or imagined:  Is the airflow through the radiator seriously impeded with it placed against the bulkhead and does that also put extra strain on the fan?

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The heater is mounted half way between the back of the instruments/wiring and the bulkhead leaving about 3” clearance on each side. The fresh air inlet directs air down the bulkhead across the front of the matrix. 
For the curious among us the auxiliary CB speaker hangs from a bracket screwed to the heater and is inn turn bolted to the CB housing. 
looks like there’s still a bit of tidying to do under there too :-)

AAFE6B76-EA1C-4090-B5EB-9760A5A3AF85.jpeg

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