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RogerH

TR4 Hood tensioner

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Hi Folks,

today I stumbled upon a possible alternative to stowing the hood frame or perhaps I was doing it wrong to start with.

 

As you know the hood frame has an over-centre lever to tighten the hood.

At present when the frame is stowed this lever is in an upward vertical(ish) position.

 

However I have found that if the lever is pointing in a downward(ish) position the frame lays better on the wheel arches, allowing the side flaps to sit better. And the levers do not attack you should you forget they are pointing upwards.

 

Have a look at the pics. If there is a reason for not stowing them downwards then please explain.

 

The first pic is upwards (standard)

The second pic is downwards (my relavation)

 

Roger

 

 

 

Edited by RogerH

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Thats right, it is a most elegant mechanism when done correctly :)

..... Andy

 

Apologies, I have just looked at your picture again, when I do mine I push the lever backwards (Anti-clockwise as shown in your first pic)until the lip sits flush with the other rail. When doing that, the whole frame assembly moves backwards and stores tidily (and elegantly!)

Edited by AndyR100

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Roger,

 

It's been a long long time since I drove my TR4

in softtop mode but I seem to recall that the

frame could (should?) be 'jacked' back into the

rear trim - so - pointing up (which is, as you

say, standard)

That also means you can fix the hood stock

cover to the fasteners and make the whole

top-down assembly neater.

 

From the photos you posted (lovely red trim btw)

you would not be able to fit an original-design

hood stick cover.

 

AlanR

Edited by TR 2100

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That’s right, it is a most elegant mechanism when done correctly :)

..... Andy

Hi Andy,

which one do you think is the correct option. I quite like the downward pointing lever.

 

Roger

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Roger,

 

It's been a long long time since I drove my TR4

in softtop mode but I seem to recall that the

frame could (should?) be 'jacked' back into the

rear trim.

That also means you can fix the hood stock

cover to the fasteners and make the whole

top-down assembly neater.

 

From the photos you posted (lovely red trim btw)

you would not be able to fit an original-design

hood stick cover.

 

AlanR

Hi Alan,

the side flap will fit with the lever in both directions although it was trimmed to fit the frame with the lever in the upwards direction.

 

One concern I have with the frame, positioned with the levers up, is that the frame itself is slightly raised and presses against the top surface of the side flap when 'popped' down.

With the levers downwards the frame is clear of the side flap top surface.

 

Roger

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Hi Roger, I just updated my earlier comment, anti-clockwise and downward until the lever is flush with the frame works for me.

 

When I first got the car I seriously considered fitting a 4a mechanism, but I just love the simple and compact way it folds I would dare change it now

..... Andy

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Hi Andy,

I understand now. That is the way I thought it should be.

However my new way (fully clockwise with lever pointing downwards) also stows the frame neatly against the back board and the side frame is slightly lower (nearer the wheel arch)

 

So there is a choice - excellent.

 

Roger

 

PS - just had a thought. With the seats insitu can the lever go downwards far enough. A flaw in the design.

 

Roger

Edited by RogerH

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Ok.... just to prove that my memory cant be relied upon, I just checked in my car..... I actually move it all the way round in the other direction until It stops at the hood frame..... hopefully these pictures will do a much better description!

post-13122-0-86290100-1507225765_thumb.jpeg

post-13122-0-64450600-1507225807_thumb.jpeg

post-13122-0-39465100-1507225820_thumb.jpeg

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Roger,

 

I agree with Andy.

 

On my TR4 the levers turn anticlockwise with the lips folding flat against the frame. I think the lips were designed that way so they would lie flush and not present a potential safety hazard.The frame assembly moves backwards and stows tidily against the backboard.

 

A while ago I also read somewhere that the hood can be stored in the hollow between the foams of the rear backrest - thereby providing some cushioning for a back seat passenger.

 

Cheers,

 

Jeff

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Hi Andy,

your pictures show the 'most brilliant' idea I had earlier today. That is the way I shall stick to.

 

Hi Jeff,

interesting thought about stowing the hood itself. Should keep it cleaner than in the boot.

 

Roger

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...... the hood can be stored in the hollow between the foams of the rear backrest -

thereby providing some cushioning for a back seat passenger.

 

Cheers,

 

Jeff

 

Yes - the rear trim (soft top stye) can be lifted, hood frame underneath

against the black backboard, then back down into place, under the carpet.

 

So neat, you would hardly know there was a hood frame fitted.

 

AlanR

 

Edit - Ah, the hood itself. Great idea. Never thought of that.

Edited by TR 2100

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I have never considered storing the hood itself in that way.... I will have to take a look and see how neatly it can be done, thanks for the hint :)

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Hi Roger,

 

I'm not sure about stowing the Hood between the Frame and Cover (might knacker the plastic window), but you can certainly stow the Tonneau there.

 

Geoff

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Hi Folks,

having a play with the car again today and have found that the side flaps for the hood frame are too short when the frame is stowed with the tensioner levers are pointing downwards.

Interestingly I still have the ST original flaps and they are the same size as what I have now. So the levers must have been in the up position when stowed.

Easy to fix

 

However I now have a more interesting problem with the doors. They were quite difficult to shut with what appears to be the correct rubber seal (TRF seal).

With the furry plush snap on edge trim http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/p-1926-plush-snappon-edge-trim-navy.aspxlife has become more difficult interesting.

So Is the Woolies edge trim wrong. Or is it the TRF rubber seal. Or a combination of both. HELPPPPPPPP!!

 

Roger

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Roger,

 

After years of checking eBay, I eventually found some

Stanpart "draught excluders", i.e. the combined*** fuzzy

and rubber seal.

 

I have to bang the doors to close them, even when

the car has been stored for months with the doors

shut and seals compressed.

 

I can't offer any consolation, although you should

check that the closer catch on the B post is oiled

and sliding correctly.

 

AlanR

 

Edit - what AM I talking about.

I meant the separate rubber seal and fuzzy

draught excluder.

Sorry for the confusion.

Edited by TR 2100

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Hi Alan,

Tomorrow, I shall rest the door (I removed it to replace a hinge - 6" nails have many uses) and put a squirt of oil here and there.

 

I have the TR6 all in one fluff and rubber seal so I shall install that and see how that fits.

 

It would be nice to use the separate seal and edge trim as I have the channels for the seals.

 

Roger

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Hi Alan,

Tomorrow, I shall rest the door (I removed it to replace a hinge - 6" nails have many uses) and put a squirt of oil here and there.

 

I have the TR6 all in one fluff and rubber seal so I shall install that and see how that fits.

 

It would be nice to use the separate seal and edge trim as I have the channels for the seals.

 

Roger

We have been here so many times over the years with the problem of the rubber usually being too hard a shore. The new Moss rubber is very good as it is hollow which means there is less to squash.The original furflex of which I did have some on mine originally (Unfortunately the rubber to go with it at the time was unavailable so I sold it on) was a lot thinner than the Woolies snap on one thats available now Im afraid. If you want to go the combination route Roger then this one is the one I have found to fit the best though only available in a plain rubber finish) http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/p-1285-door-seal.aspx

You will find it does put a line down the rear corner of the door card though.

Stuart.

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Hi Stuart,

many thanks for that. I shall get some of the Moss rubber seal.

 

As for the fluffy edge trim I will have to get my thinking cap on.

 

Roger

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i thought Bill closed up his business last year??

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