RogerH Posted October 5, 2017 Report Share Posted October 5, 2017 (edited) Hi Folks, today I stumbled upon a possible alternative to stowing the hood frame or perhaps I was doing it wrong to start with. As you know the hood frame has an over-centre lever to tighten the hood. At present when the frame is stowed this lever is in an upward vertical(ish) position. However I have found that if the lever is pointing in a downward(ish) position the frame lays better on the wheel arches, allowing the side flaps to sit better. And the levers do not attack you should you forget they are pointing upwards. Have a look at the pics. If there is a reason for not stowing them downwards then please explain. The first pic is upwards (standard) The second pic is downwards (my relavation) Roger Edited October 5, 2017 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndyR100 Posted October 5, 2017 Report Share Posted October 5, 2017 (edited) Thats right, it is a most elegant mechanism when done correctly ..... Andy Apologies, I have just looked at your picture again, when I do mine I push the lever backwards (Anti-clockwise as shown in your first pic)until the lip sits flush with the other rail. When doing that, the whole frame assembly moves backwards and stores tidily (and elegantly!) Edited October 5, 2017 by AndyR100 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted October 5, 2017 Report Share Posted October 5, 2017 (edited) Roger, It's been a long long time since I drove my TR4 in softtop mode but I seem to recall that the frame could (should?) be 'jacked' back into the rear trim - so - pointing up (which is, as you say, standard) That also means you can fix the hood stock cover to the fasteners and make the whole top-down assembly neater. From the photos you posted (lovely red trim btw) you would not be able to fit an original-design hood stick cover. AlanR Edited October 5, 2017 by TR 2100 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2017 That’s right, it is a most elegant mechanism when done correctly ..... Andy Hi Andy, which one do you think is the correct option. I quite like the downward pointing lever. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2017 Roger, It's been a long long time since I drove my TR4 in softtop mode but I seem to recall that the frame could (should?) be 'jacked' back into the rear trim. That also means you can fix the hood stock cover to the fasteners and make the whole top-down assembly neater. From the photos you posted (lovely red trim btw) you would not be able to fit an original-design hood stick cover. AlanR Hi Alan, the side flap will fit with the lever in both directions although it was trimmed to fit the frame with the lever in the upwards direction. One concern I have with the frame, positioned with the levers up, is that the frame itself is slightly raised and presses against the top surface of the side flap when 'popped' down. With the levers downwards the frame is clear of the side flap top surface. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndyR100 Posted October 5, 2017 Report Share Posted October 5, 2017 Hi Roger, I just updated my earlier comment, anti-clockwise and downward until the lever is flush with the frame works for me. When I first got the car I seriously considered fitting a 4a mechanism, but I just love the simple and compact way it folds I would dare change it now ..... Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2017 (edited) Hi Andy, I understand now. That is the way I thought it should be. However my new way (fully clockwise with lever pointing downwards) also stows the frame neatly against the back board and the side frame is slightly lower (nearer the wheel arch) So there is a choice - excellent. Roger PS - just had a thought. With the seats insitu can the lever go downwards far enough. A flaw in the design. Roger Edited October 5, 2017 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndyR100 Posted October 5, 2017 Report Share Posted October 5, 2017 Ok.... just to prove that my memory cant be relied upon, I just checked in my car..... I actually move it all the way round in the other direction until It stops at the hood frame..... hopefully these pictures will do a much better description! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JeffR Posted October 5, 2017 Report Share Posted October 5, 2017 Roger, I agree with Andy. On my TR4 the levers turn anticlockwise with the lips folding flat against the frame. I think the lips were designed that way so they would lie flush and not present a potential safety hazard.The frame assembly moves backwards and stows tidily against the backboard. A while ago I also read somewhere that the hood can be stored in the hollow between the foams of the rear backrest - thereby providing some cushioning for a back seat passenger. Cheers, Jeff Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2017 Hi Andy, your pictures show the 'most brilliant' idea I had earlier today. That is the way I shall stick to. Hi Jeff, interesting thought about stowing the hood itself. Should keep it cleaner than in the boot. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted October 5, 2017 Report Share Posted October 5, 2017 (edited) ...... the hood can be stored in the hollow between the foams of the rear backrest - thereby providing some cushioning for a back seat passenger. Cheers, Jeff Yes - the rear trim (soft top stye) can be lifted, hood frame underneath against the black backboard, then back down into place, under the carpet. So neat, you would hardly know there was a hood frame fitted. AlanR Edit - Ah, the hood itself. Great idea. Never thought of that. Edited October 5, 2017 by TR 2100 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndyR100 Posted October 5, 2017 Report Share Posted October 5, 2017 I have never considered storing the hood itself in that way.... I will have to take a look and see how neatly it can be done, thanks for the hint Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TorontoTim Posted October 5, 2017 Report Share Posted October 5, 2017 Ha! Wot a clever idea! I shall do this next time the hood is down and see if I like it. Splendid! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Quicksilver Posted October 6, 2017 Report Share Posted October 6, 2017 That is why the carpet has Lift the Dot fasteners and the rear trim only has chrome O ring to fit between. Marcel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR4Geoff Posted October 6, 2017 Report Share Posted October 6, 2017 Hi Roger, I'm not sure about stowing the Hood between the Frame and Cover (might knacker the plastic window), but you can certainly stow the Tonneau there. Geoff Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2017 Hi Folks, having a play with the car again today and have found that the side flaps for the hood frame are too short when the frame is stowed with the tensioner levers are pointing downwards. Interestingly I still have the ST original flaps and they are the same size as what I have now. So the levers must have been in the up position when stowed. Easy to fix However I now have a more interesting problem with the doors. They were quite difficult to shut with what appears to be the correct rubber seal (TRF seal). With the furry plush snap on edge trim http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/p-1926-plush-snappon-edge-trim-navy.aspxlife has become more difficult interesting. So Is the Woolies edge trim wrong. Or is it the TRF rubber seal. Or a combination of both. HELPPPPPPPP!! Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted October 6, 2017 Report Share Posted October 6, 2017 (edited) Roger, After years of checking eBay, I eventually found some Stanpart "draught excluders", i.e. the combined*** fuzzy and rubber seal. I have to bang the doors to close them, even when the car has been stored for months with the doors shut and seals compressed. I can't offer any consolation, although you should check that the closer catch on the B post is oiled and sliding correctly. AlanR Edit - what AM I talking about. I meant the separate rubber seal and fuzzy draught excluder. Sorry for the confusion. Edited October 6, 2017 by TR 2100 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2017 Hi Alan, Tomorrow, I shall rest the door (I removed it to replace a hinge - 6" nails have many uses) and put a squirt of oil here and there. I have the TR6 all in one fluff and rubber seal so I shall install that and see how that fits. It would be nice to use the separate seal and edge trim as I have the channels for the seals. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 7, 2017 Report Share Posted October 7, 2017 Hi Alan, Tomorrow, I shall rest the door (I removed it to replace a hinge - 6" nails have many uses) and put a squirt of oil here and there. I have the TR6 all in one fluff and rubber seal so I shall install that and see how that fits. It would be nice to use the separate seal and edge trim as I have the channels for the seals. Roger We have been here so many times over the years with the problem of the rubber usually being too hard a shore. The new Moss rubber is very good as it is hollow which means there is less to squash.The original furflex of which I did have some on mine originally (Unfortunately the rubber to go with it at the time was unavailable so I sold it on) was a lot thinner than the Woolies snap on one thats available now Im afraid. If you want to go the combination route Roger then this one is the one I have found to fit the best though only available in a plain rubber finish) http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/p-1285-door-seal.aspx You will find it does put a line down the rear corner of the door card though. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2017 Hi Stuart, many thanks for that. I shall get some of the Moss rubber seal. As for the fluffy edge trim I will have to get my thinking cap on. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
badhuis Posted October 7, 2017 Report Share Posted October 7, 2017 (edited) The original rail rubber profile was hard to get, I got lengths from Bill from Rarebits years ago which either got this made or found a supplier. https://www.facebook.com/rarebits4classics/ Edited October 7, 2017 by badhuis Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndyR100 Posted October 7, 2017 Report Share Posted October 7, 2017 i thought Bill closed up his business last year?? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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