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Lost clutch


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Currently on the side of the road 10 miles from home waiting for a tow.

 

Clutch pedal got progressively slacker after about 5 miles, when I decided to turn back I lost it altogether.

 

Sat waiting for truck reading up on copper washers, thrust guide pins, gearbox out repairs.

 

I was hoping for a nice easy cable that had slid trough its clamp bolt.

 

Am I in for a hard time here?

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No hard time really. It's all part of the TR adventure!!

Sounds like the famous pin in the clutch shaft has sheared. Gearbox out job - gives you the opportunity to do all sorts of (preventive) maintenance to the clutch disque, cover etc. You even have a chance eliminate those oil leaks that you've been meaning to do for ba long time

 

Best of luck

 

James

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Hi,

check the easy things first -

 

Slave cylinder working

Master cylinder working

 

The lever arm on the cross shaft should be about vertical when the release bearing is touching the diaphragm.

If it goes too far past vertical then the taper pin the release fork could be sheared.

 

At worst the box needs to come out, labourious but not technically difficult.

 

Can you handle a spanner and a socket.?

 

Roger

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Hi,

check the easy things first -

 

Slave cylinder working

Master cylinder working

 

The lever arm on the cross shaft should be about vertical when the release bearing is touching the diaphragm.

If it goes too far past vertical then the taper pin the release fork could be sheared.

 

At worst the box needs to come out, labourious but not technically difficult.

 

Can you handle a spanner and a socket.?

 

Roger

I'm pretty good with the spanners. Just the language being used needs research. Never played with clutches. in all the crappy manual cars I used to have, the clutches always held up.

 

Also don't have lifting gear more than trolley jack and axle stands.

 

But then neither do many other people fixing these things.

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Hi Chris,

you do not need lifting gear.

 

TRolley jack AND axle stand(s) to get under to remove the exhaust (may not be needed) and undo the bell housing screws/bolts at the bottom and the clutch slave.

 

From inside the car - remove the seats, carpets, 'H' dash support, tunnel, started motor.

 

TRolley jack under the engine sump to hold the engine.

 

Remove the GB rear mount and support the back end with a lump of wood.

 

Remove all the bell hoiusing botls and Pull the GB rearwards. It may be a good idea to put a cxheap scissor jack under the GB to help support.

I use an electric scissor jack - it makes life easy.

 

If you do not disturb the clutch plate then alignment will be easier.

 

When putting it back put the GB into 4th gear so that you can turn the input shaft from the back end.

 

Good luck

 

Roger

Edited by RogerH
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Have you tried driving without the clutch?

Put it in first gear, turn starter with ignition switch until engine starts, move forward, then shift to third gear (yank stick into position/ignore minor grinding) AND you are on your way.

 

That's the way we used to do it in the old days- no tow truck needed.

Edited by Sapphire72
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I gave that a quick try. It wouldn't engage 1st easy. And the car was in a slightly tricky position. Didn't want to kangaroo hop my way into the middle of the road.

 

When the truck was an hour away I decided to sit tight and not make things worse.

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I would eliminate the hydraulic system (master&slave cylinders) as the culprit before removing the gearbox. The slave cylinder should have approx. 5/8" movement. A broken spring in the master cyl. or leaky seals in the master or slave cyl. could cause the clutch not to disengage.

Berry

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  • 1 month later...

I’m an idiot.

 

Finally got around to looking at this issue yesterday.

 

No fluid in reservoir.

 

What a fool. Not used to a clutch having any hydraulic parts so didn’t think to inspect it. Just assumed something solid had broken.

 

Pleased I’m not stripping the car, but annoyed with myself as well.

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