DaveN Posted September 15, 2017 Report Share Posted September 15, 2017 Extralube ZX81 oil additive any good or snake oil? Saw it in Halfords quite pricey. Reading the paperwork it can also be added to fuel tank (30ml per 30 litres??) and also a small amount in the coolant to help lube the water pump! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MikeF Posted September 16, 2017 Report Share Posted September 16, 2017 (edited) I had a few minutes to spare on the phone today and so flipped around other forums. They all start in the same way as above and a lot of people go back and forth, Landyzone had the best discussion www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/extralube-zx1-a-short-rave.189724/ Below is what I believe are informed opinions from that thread Mike The debate continues... may want to check this out guys.... Extralube ZX1 Copper corrosive? - YouTubethis information was below the video...Extralube ZX1 extremely copper corrosive, IMO not suitable for cars and any other application where copper is widely used!the zx1 was heated using a 60W halogen lamp for 3 hoursThe fumes produced during the heating are extremely toxic! don't breathe.Looking around on the net i found this:General Remarks on Chlorinated Additives.A number of 'add-on' additives intended to improve the performance of commercially available automotive lubricants have been marketed in recent years, under such names as 'Xxtralube ZX-1', 'Metol FX-1', 'PPL Anti-Friction' and 'Activ-8'.All such products share the following characteristics with 'X-1R Friction Eliminator':-1)They all contain chlorinated paraffin 'exteme pressure'(EP) compounds first used in the 1930s in heavily-loaded industrial gearboxes, and in some automotive transmission applications, mainly hypoid gears.2)They all corrode copper-based alloys at moderate temperatures, easily exceeded in all engine, and most transmission applications.This problem was recognised in the 1930s, and chlorinated compounds were never used in transmissions with bronze bearings or gears. No responsible manufacturer ever suggested using them in engines where their increasing activity at high temperatures could lead to piston ring corrosion and bore glazing. (For the same reason, modern 'hypoid' additives are not used in engines, even though they are much safer than any chlorinated additive.)3)X-1R Friction Eliminator and its clones are based upon very outdated technology, which was abandoned by responsible lubricant manufacturers for automotive transmission uses in the 1950s. Chlorinated compounds still find applications in metal working, but their use is on the decline because of health and safety considerations.4)When burnt, chlorinated paraffins produce corrosive hydrochloric acid, and organo-chlorine compounds including the highly poisonous phosgene gas. Apart from these corrosion and health hazards, with petrol engines the deactivation of exhaust catalysts is also a problem.5)Unfortunately, these additives give spectacular results in simple EP test machines such as the 'Falex'. As a marketing ploy, a demonstration of this type looks impressive to those not aquainted with the above facts. Also attractive is the low cost of chlorinated compounds, allowing profits of several thousand percent to be made.CheersGuy Edited September 16, 2017 by MikeF Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted September 16, 2017 Report Share Posted September 16, 2017 Tks Mike, bookmarked ! Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 16, 2017 Report Share Posted September 16, 2017 Hi Dave, the oil company manufacturers spend a fortune to get their products working well. Additives are knocked up by tin pot outfits to make a profit form those who want more - but more what!!!!! Stick to what comes out of the oil can. As for the ZX81 - the Sinclair special would be better than the additives. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DaveN Posted September 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2017 So SNAKE OIL then! I'll stick with Halfords classic! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DaveN Posted September 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2017 Some interesting articles. However In the need for balance I'm going to invest in a bottle and run a few tests of my own. The various internet site mention its corrosive, stoutly refuted by the manufacturers! And Mr Honest John says it contains Zinc diadoodah!! Again denied by the manufacturers. We shall see....It would appear to work well on the Timken bearing lubricity test machine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MikeF Posted September 17, 2017 Report Share Posted September 17, 2017 Well good luck with that, do let us know how you get on. Personally having now read up on chlorinated paraffins I wouldn't put anything containing them in my engine/gearbox. Any short term gain would not be worth the longer term pain. Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TriumphV8 Posted September 18, 2017 Report Share Posted September 18, 2017 (edited) It is very easy: Oil is on the best level today! Except: ...... Cats require less ZDDP in the oil because it kills them Engines are modified today not to need that additive. Unfortunately our engines do need that, both my TR6 and the Rover V8 Our engines might not be oiled properly under special working conditions. That is for rample the cam at idle. There should be provision that it does not run dry and starts fretting. ZDDP builds up a protection on the surface. So from a level I think it is API SF there is less ZDDP allowed in the oil. That is the law and in the USA it is forbidden to add ZDDP to the oil manually. I add a bottle each oil change and hope it makes sense. Edited September 18, 2017 by TriumphV8 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DaveN Posted September 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2017 First off apologies It's ZX1 not as I called it ZX81 (Rogers cryptic comment there !) So. today after Er 'borrowing' a ph meter from work and some strips of litmus paper. Some not very scientific results! Engine Oil this is just Halfords classic ... a fairly neutral ph ZDDP+ again neutral ph ZX1 yet again a neutral ph Heated with a blow lamp, sorry no thermometer but I did burn my fingers! They all remained stable. Then I overdid it with the blow lamp and spontaneous combustion occurred. Following a very slight panic due to the open bottle of acetone! I again checked the ph they had all turned acidic by the same amount reading about 2-3 So on to the test claiming it dissolves copper. I could not get it any of them to do that even heating gently until the oils were gently bubbling around the edges of the containers. (I tried a bit of copper brake pipe, 2.5 sq mm wire and a copper washer. Also tried aluminium foil) . Confused at the claims and counter claims. The shed fire is now extinguished. The acrid smoke has all but dissipated. The cooking utensils are back in the kitchen. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cubehopper Posted September 21, 2017 Report Share Posted September 21, 2017 You need to get out more . Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ChrisR-4A Posted September 21, 2017 Report Share Posted September 21, 2017 So SNAKE OIL then! I'll stick with Halfords classic! H Dave, rather than spend money on any addatives why not invest in a better quality oil. Halfords Classic is ok but is at the lower end of the ZDDP table for a little more you could have Millers 20/50 Classic, Opie Oils had this on their EBay outlet for £52 for two 5lt cans delivered. Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Damson6 Posted September 28, 2017 Report Share Posted September 28, 2017 To lubricate the water pump but a thimble full of brake fluid (Dot 3 0r 4) in the rad Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 28, 2017 Report Share Posted September 28, 2017 Hi Derek, DOT 3/4 is Polyethylenn Glycol. Antifreeze is ethylene Glycol. Why add the DOT 3/4 when the antifreeze is already there. !! Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MikeF Posted September 29, 2017 Report Share Posted September 29, 2017 T Hi Derek, DOT 3/4 is Polyethylenn Glycol. Antifreeze is ethylene Glycol. Why add the DOT 3/4 when the antifreeze is already there. !! Roger No no. Their names are confusingly similar but they are completely different chemicals, https://sciencing.com/polyethylene-glycol-vs-ethylene-glycol-5977662.html Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 30, 2017 Report Share Posted September 30, 2017 Hi Mike, you are quite right but my point is that the anti-freeze will do the same purpose. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Damson6 Posted October 4, 2017 Report Share Posted October 4, 2017 Hi Mike, you are quite right but my point is that the anti-freeze will do the same purpose. Roger Lubricates the carbon in the water pump when they squeal, but then I presume I am living in the past and water pumps don't have carbon seals anymore? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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