brianking59 Posted September 13, 2017 Report Share Posted September 13, 2017 To improve matrimonial harmony I an going to fit a 'Surrey' back light frame to my TR6. The frame has 9 studs and the 6 has 5 holes with captive nuts for the hood. I know other members have fitted this frame so how was this done? I'm already planning to use a TR6 header rail to make the hood more secure. Brian King Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted September 13, 2017 Report Share Posted September 13, 2017 You will need to delete the first stud back from the front on each side of the frame as that was for TR4, at the front each side there is a stud fitted to the forward deck extensions on the car, if you remove your ally capping from the top of the "B" post if your lucky there will be a hole with a captive nut under it for that stud, if not a Rivnut will do the trick. You will need to drill out the 5 rear captives that currently have the rear hood bar fitted too. When you have fitted it dont forget to fit screws back into the two captive plates where your hood frame was originally fitted as otherwise they will rattle. You will also need to change the windscreen top capping for the Surrey version. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
openroad Posted September 13, 2017 Report Share Posted September 13, 2017 Hi Brian, I agree with Stuart as he knows what he is doing , except for the bit of changing your windscreen capping to a Surrey type. You are going to use a Tr6 header rail, for ease of putting up when raining,so your existing screen capping is fine. Good luck with it, Conrad. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fremont Posted September 13, 2017 Report Share Posted September 13, 2017 Hi Brian, There may be an issue with the hardtop seal against the TR6 windscreen capping which has recesses where the locking pins go . Cheers, Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
brianking59 Posted September 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2017 Hi Guys Thank you all for the info. I now understand what I have to do with the back light frame. I already have the header rail (from a Spitfite Mk 4 so that's my winter project sorted! Regards Brian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted September 13, 2017 Report Share Posted September 13, 2017 Cor. if only all projects were that simple. I attempted to update my TR 2 with TR7 style seats ( as detailed in the TR Newsletter) but could not find the right colour felt tip pens for that unique 'Jockanese' tartan plaid covering. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted September 14, 2017 Report Share Posted September 14, 2017 Hi Brian, I agree with Stuart as he knows what he is doing , except for the bit of changing your windscreen capping to a Surrey type. You are going to use a Tr6 header rail, for ease of putting up when raining,so your existing screen capping is fine. Good luck with it, Conrad. You have now complicated matters Conrad as he is now going to ask how to convert a Surrey soft section frame to using the 6 header rail! Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 14, 2017 Report Share Posted September 14, 2017 Hi Folks, I know many people do not like the original TR4/4A surrey top header rail with the hood stuffing under the lip but I think it is a very neat idea. Simplicity to the extreme. Once the frame cap is fitted correctly (new ones are a bugger) to accept the fabric lip it is easy peasy. Yes, it does take a little longer to fit compared to the TR4A/5/6 convertible roof but it works. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fremont Posted September 14, 2017 Report Share Posted September 14, 2017 Hi Folks, I know many people do not like the original TR4/4A surrey top header rail with the hood stuffing under the lip but I think it is a very neat idea. Simplicity to the extreme. Once the frame cap is fitted correctly (new ones are a bugger) to accept the fabric lip it is easy peasy. Yes, it does take a little longer to fit compared to the TR4A/5/6 convertible roof but it works. Roger That's what I've been using for the last 23 years on mine but I did have the front lip partly peel out in rain at 80 mph once. I quickly found this could be alleviated by opening the side window 1/2" or by hewing to a 60 mph limit in the wet. I found it impossible to use the distance tubes for the hardtop bolts except with a TR4 windscreen frame ( which I now have on my driver - but the sun visor and mirror attachments are different for the later cars ). Either way, removing the soft top from the boot and affixing it takes too long in the event of a pop-up shower, so that leaves (1) pre-emptive fitment, (2) finding a bridge ASAP, or (3) keeping up the speed until the issue abates - no traffic lights or stop signs! Cheers, Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 14, 2017 Report Share Posted September 14, 2017 Hi Tom, I always carry a brolly in the car should there be a downpour and no shelter. Do not put it up while moving !!! It also attaches to the front/rear frame popper studs to use as an overnight cover. = Works very well. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fremont Posted September 14, 2017 Report Share Posted September 14, 2017 Thanks, Roger - I'll look into that but it suggests having to park the car until the shower is over. Beats getting all wet though! My cars very seldom " spend the night " anywhere but if they do a full cover goes over them. Cheers, Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
openroad Posted September 15, 2017 Report Share Posted September 15, 2017 Didn't think I had complicated things as he already has the header rail, so undoubtedly going to fix it to the H section, although maybe will want to know how... Good luck Brian anyway, I have a header rail on mine, and can send pictures if you need them Cheers, Conrad. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
brianking59 Posted September 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2017 Thank you all for your help with this topic. I'm thinking of writing an article for the mag about this project so watch this space. Brian Dorset GL Quote Link to post Share on other sites
simonjrwinter Posted September 24, 2017 Report Share Posted September 24, 2017 Hi Brian, I've done the same with my TR6. Surrey backlight and TR6 header rail. PM me if you want any info or pictures. Simon PS, the Surrey does NOT stop the cockpit getting just as blowy as a normal TR6 convertible! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Damson6 Posted September 25, 2017 Report Share Posted September 25, 2017 (edited) After a couple of trials I settled on this front fixture. Having a surrey top doesn't stop all buffeting but the better half approves! And better visibility. Oh and it unclips so it will fit in the boot without dismantling, but has to be dismantled and placed behind seat if boot full of luggage. Most of the time spent on erecting it is on those pesky elasticated clips and I have yet to sort an easy quick way of screwing down the back bar, at present using wing nuts on thread. Edited September 25, 2017 by Damson6 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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