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TR4A engine oil usage


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Hi Roger

I had a very similar problem my oil consumption was what I considered excessive maybe a litre over 400 miles, I did have a little leakage from front sump bolts and coil bolts. I removed my PCV and fitted a K&N type filter to the rocker cover, removed the core plug down by the fuel pump and fitted an outlet to a small catch tank which vents to atmosphere.

This was a trial really but the first thing I noticed was a far better idle.

The oil consumption has reduced to very little, unfortunately at the same time I changed the oil from Halfords Classic to VR1 Valvoline so I'm not 100% sure which modification has changed things though pretty confident it's the breathing system. Ive also stopped most of the leakage wth the exception of the rear seal.

 

All filters have remained dry with no oil misting which surprised me.

Paul

Paul,

 

I seem to remember you were interested in oil with ZDDP in, the VR1 used in Europe doesn't only the US spec does.

 

Mick Richards

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Fascinating reading, including when they should be replaced by. ;-)

 

http://www.aa1car.com/library/pcv.htm

 

Barry

Hi Barry,

I'm slowly understanding how the valve works.

I'm also finding out what PCV stands for

 

being an aircraft person I thought Pressure Control Valve - but that is daft.

Today I thought of Pollution Control valve (getting closer)

Now I see it is Positive Crankcase Ventilation.

 

Learning all the time.

 

Roger

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Roger,

Do you have a rocker shaft oil feed kit fitted?

You may remember from a previous thread on pre-ignition that I had problems with the early form of the rocker oil feed kit from Moss.

What was happening was that too much oil was delivered to the top of the engine, with all the oil running down and the crankcase fumes blowing up, a lot of oil mist was getting sucked through the PCV into the inlet.

I removed the rocker feed and the pre-ignition went away.

I never measured oil consumption, but since the oil-induced pre-ignition stopped I guess I was burning less oil.

 

My recollection is that i wrote to TR action and subsequently Moss changed the 4-cyl oil feed kits to include some restrictor in ~1995

 

So, the PCV may be innocent if there are other modifications.

Edited by ctc77965o
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Paul,

 

I seem to remember you were interested in oil with ZDDP in, the VR1 used in Europe doesn't only the US spec does.

 

Mick Richards

Mick

The Zddp content has been well discussed recently, in the 60s we used whatever oil we could get hold of just to maintain a reasonable level on the dipstick, oils of today seem to be far superior in quality than that of yesteryear.

Coat on and heading for the door.

 

Valvoline was suggested to me by a well respected Cornish supplier (down here) the use of along with getting rid of the PCV had an instant positive result for me, long term I will keep you posted.

 

Roger I made up a male elbow with an interference fit into the core plug hole along with some loctite sealant and fitted a hose to the catch tank, removing the hose from the crank case breather at idle I feel nothing from the hose, though under load it will probably change. The filters were just K&N lookalike that fitted directly onto the rocker cover with two of them on a litre catch tank from the crankcase breather, which after 400 miles contains very little.

Paul

Edited by Paul J
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Hi,

 

better name für the Positiv Crankcase Ventilation valve would be

Activ Crankcase Ventilaion valve in the sence of "forced" or "supported".

It does what a vaccum pump would do.

 

I that context I find the original ventilated oil filler cap of the TR4 not usefull.

If needed (?) something like a "ventilation-valve" should not be on top of the engine

but down by the crankshaft.

 

Ciao &:-) Marco

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Hi Paul,

looked on the K&N web site and they have a selection of cover filters.

Have ordered a small catch tank off the Bay.

 

Next week should be interesting.

 

Roger

We do like to play Roger it keeps the grey matter active. This is my set up can easily be reversed if necessary.

 

post-13797-0-60537600-1511605109_thumb.jpeg

By the way that's your old rocker cover in all its glory.

 

Paul

Edited by Paul J
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Hi Barry,

at present I have a rubber pipe venting the rocker cover over to the fuel pump area. I shall attach a simple plastic bottle to it for a few days to see what happens.

 

I've ordered a small catch tank to have a play with and have found the K&N site for the various filters that could fit on the rocker cover outlet pipe.

 

I've ordered a TR4 crankcase breather pipe forma very dodgy character :ph34r::P

 

Hopefully by the end of next week I'll have something cobbled together to give me a test bed.

 

Let's see what happens.

 

Roger

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Hi Deggers,

 

I hope it is interesting, I´m the one how made and published it.

"TR4A-Driver" on Youtube is me. You can see everything I explained before.

There are also some of my other clips about TR4A technic on Youtube.

 

Ciao &:-) Marco

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Hi Roger

 

Thanks for the photo, so vented cap and extraction via the intake?

 

If when you fit your catch tank to your 4A using your crankcase breather pipe would you have to cut off the 'S' bend in order to plumb into the catch tank (ie rubber hose and jubilee clips)?. Have you considered plumbing both the rocker breather and the crankcase breather into the same catch tank as I have seen in some photos on't web?

 

Barry

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Hi Barry,

at present haven't a clue about the plumbing.

When the tank turns up I'll cobble something together and see what happens

 

I have a TR4 style crank case vent turning up soon but not sure now if I need it. There is nothing coming out of the temporary pipe on the rocker cover.

PaulJ uses a plumbing 90' elbow stuck in the block above the fuel pump with a rubber pipe coming off this to the tank. That may be the way to go.

 

On going project!!

 

Roger

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There are also some of my other clips about TR4A technic on Youtube.

 

Ciao &:-) Marco

 

Just had a look, Marco. Good channel. Particularly liked the Bendix-drive on the 4A starter. Hadn't seen one of those in operation before.

 

Cheers, Deggers

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Deggers, thanks for the laud,

 

I have also not seen that before and found no one who showed me.

That´s why I made and published the video.

 

Have you realised how easy the pinion runs?

Before it was bad working and glued from old rosiny (?) grease.

I washed all out and used gun oil with some petroleum (in UK: parafin called?).

Works without any problems since that conversion.

 

Ciao &:-) Marco

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Roger

 

Been lurking on this thread for a while now, very interesting and strangely reassuring. On a recent Euro tour, 2200 miles, inc some 100 mph+ cruising in Germany LNK managed 750 a litre which I wasn't that impressed with, but better than the 3-400/Ltr worse case reported here.

 

I have a small leak from the Spin on oil filter and a drip from the front timing cover, rear main is dry. So, like everybody else, I'm burning it off, or just sending it out the back. No PCV, straight hose to a breather/ catch tank. Suspect rings or glazed bores in my case, but also believe its a combination of several factors coming together to give a perfect score, or equally, a fail......

 

Breathing, crank case pressure leads to leaks, rear main can be big enough to cause real oil consumption. Once you solve these, you're looking at , as Roger says, something going on in the engine. Truly a black art. Lots of great info here and look forward to more test data soon

 

Meanwhile I'm chasing my own demos and will let you know once I've sorted them

Edited by North London Mike
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, removed the core plug down by the fuel pump and fitted an outlet to a small catch tank which vents to atmosphere.

This was a trial really but the first thing I noticed was a far better idle.

 

Paul

 

Hi Paul,

to stop me re-inventing the wheel how did you remove the core plug from the TR4 breather pipe position.

 

Roger

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With great difficulty Roger. I will be honest with you I punched a hole in it hoping to lever it out with a pry bar. No go it went in deeper. I removed the sump to gain some rear access which as you know is a waste of time.

I left the holed core plug in as it cant interfere with anything, when I decide to remove the engine next I will then surgically remove.

The old plug is in far enough not to obstruct the elbow I fitted and has a hole in it equal to the elbow ID not an easy decision for me but I feel ok about it now.

Others seem to have had better success than I removing the plug,

Apologies if my post was a little misleading.

Paul

Edited by Paul J
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