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Rear Cockpit Liner Replacement


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Hi All,

 

I've been doing some odd winter tasks on the TR6 one of which involved removing the rear cockpit liner (bulkhead panel) to get to the front of the fuel tank. It's become obvious that this liner has seen better days and needs replacing.

 

I looked at making a liner from scratch from marine 3 ply but there is a slight outward bulge in the panel over the diff which would be difficult to emulate in flat 3 ply.

 

I've looked the at liners available from both Rimmers and Skinners , and while the Skinner's panels look to be of higher quality, the Rimmer's liners would probably be good enough. Note: I only intend to replace the rear panel as the other cockpit internal trim components have been progressively replaced over the years.

 

Has anyone had any recent experience with Rimmer's cockpit trim. The part I need is :

 

 

https://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-813051

 

Thanks,

 

Mike C

 

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Whilst you're in there...

 

By now you'll realise how flimsy the rear panel is and especially it's properties (or lack of) as regards keeping 10 gallons of petrol away from the cockpit inhabitants when something awful goes wrong ie side impact or roll over which ruptures the fuel tank.

 

Remember in a TR if you want to compete in motorsport without a rear metal firewall in place you won't be allowed to. We get around that by fitting an alloy rear firewall which the authorities agree is the best compromise to try and prevent the fuel flooding through and drenching and then flambéing the occupant's as it ignites. Why settle for less when driving on public roads ?

You should be able to buy a pre cut firewall (it normally comes in 3 parts) which rivets to the rear cockpit frame with 2 smaller panels which closes off the area over the wheel arches. Underneath the alloy panel you seal it with an intumescent sealer (swells upon contact with fire) or at the least Indasa windscreen sealer, the idea is to give you a couple of minutes to get out of your car without harm not create a rear swimming pool for petrol.

Over the years we've lost a few TR owners with side impacts from vans or inversions, the TRs are designed prior to collapsing cells and other worthwhile safety features, indeed the fuel tank is a contributory stiffing agent to the cockpit frame and as such suffers significant rupturing when rear or side forces are applied to it, but you can add a few safety features of your own.

The firewall can be made yourself from 2mm alloy just trace around the rear hardboard panel you are replacing, cut it out along with the 2 small side "tabs" to go over the wheelarches and rivet (about 25mm in between rivets)in over the sealer. This along with a rear rollover hoop with a substantial side brace will give you a chance to survive a possible roll over (often at low speeds) or a hefty side impact into the cockpit which might normally rupture the fuel tank. Costs somewhere around £60 ish area and nobody can tell you have it fitted, you put the comedy hardboard panel in front of it.

 

Mick Richards

Edited by Motorsport Mickey
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Whilst you're in there...

 

By now you'll realise how flimsy the rear panel is and especially it's properties (or lack of) as regards keeping 10 gallons of petrol away from the cockpit inhabitants when something awful goes wrong ie side impact or roll over which ruptures the fuel tank.

 

Remember in a TR if you want to compete in motorsport without a rear metal firewall in place you won't be allowed to. We get around that by fitting an alloy rear firewall which the authorities agree is the best compromise to try and prevent the fuel flooding through and drenching and then flambéing the occupant's as it ignites. You should be able to buy a pre cut firewall (it normally comes in 3 parts) which rivets to the rear cockpit frame with 2 smaller panels which closes off the area over the wheel arches. Underneath the alloy panel you seal it with an intumescent sealer (swells upon contact with fire) or at the least Indasa windscreen sealer, the idea is to give you a couple of minutes to get out of your car without harm not create a rear swimming pool for petrol.

Over the years we've lost a few TR owners with side impacts from vans or inversions, the TRs are designed prior to collapsing cells and other worthwhile safety features, indeed the fuel tank is a contributory stiffing agent to the cockpit frame and as such suffers significant rupturing when rear or side forces are applied to it, but you can add a few safety features of your own.

The firewall can be made yourself from 2mm alloy just trace around the rear hardboard panel you are replacing, cut it out along with the 2 small side "tabs" to go over the wheelarches and rivet in over the sealer. This along with a rear rollover hoop with a substantial side brace will give you a chance to survive a possible roll over (often at low speeds) or a hefty side impact into the cockpit which might normally rupture the fuel tank. Costs somewhere around £60 ish area and nobody can tell you have it fitted, you put the comedy hardboard panel in front of it.

 

Mick Richards

Micks suggestion might be timely while your at it...

Edited by Rem18
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Fitted a home made aluminium fire wall to mine.. not too difficult...

http://72tr6.blogspot.co.uk/2017

Cheers

Tim

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Whilst you're in there...

 

By now you'll realise how flimsy the rear panel is and especially it's properties (or lack of) as regards keeping 10 gallons of petrol away from the cockpit inhabitants when something awful goes wrong ie side impact or roll over which ruptures the fuel tank.

 

Remember in a TR if you want to compete in motorsport without a rear metal firewall in place you won't be allowed to. We get around that by fitting an alloy rear firewall which the authorities agree is the best compromise to try and prevent the fuel flooding through and drenching and then flambéing the occupant's as it ignites. Why settle for less when driving on public roads ?

You should be able to buy a pre cut firewall (it normally comes in 3 parts) which rivets to the rear cockpit frame with 2 smaller panels which closes off the area over the wheel arches. Underneath the alloy panel you seal it with an intumescent sealer (swells upon contact with fire) or at the least Indasa windscreen sealer, the idea is to give you a couple of minutes to get out of your car without harm not create a rear swimming pool for petrol.

Over the years we've lost a few TR owners with side impacts from vans or inversions, the TRs are designed prior to collapsing cells and other worthwhile safety features, indeed the fuel tank is a contributory stiffing agent to the cockpit frame and as such suffers significant rupturing when rear or side forces are applied to it, but you can add a few safety features of your own.

The firewall can be made yourself from 2mm alloy just trace around the rear hardboard panel you are replacing, cut it out along with the 2 small side "tabs" to go over the wheelarches and rivet (about 25mm in between rivets)in over the sealer. This along with a rear rollover hoop with a substantial side brace will give you a chance to survive a possible roll over (often at low speeds) or a hefty side impact into the cockpit which might normally rupture the fuel tank. Costs somewhere around £60 ish area and nobody can tell you have it fitted, you put the comedy hardboard panel in front of it.

 

Mick Richards

Mick

this sounds lke a good idea, racing or otherwise!

Questions :

Does the firewall need to be in 3 pieces? I was thinking I'd get 1/2 an 8 x 4 sheet of ali and make in 1 piece?

Does it all need fixing at 25mm intervals?

Would self tappers be an idea for access if needed to the tank/PRV/pipework?

Maybe have an access panel in that area?

What would be the best sealant? -- any recommendations?

 

Thanks!

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Mick

this sounds lke a good idea, racing or otherwise!

Questions :

Does the firewall need to be in 3 pieces? I was thinking I'd get 1/2 an 8 x 4 sheet of ali and make in 1 piece?

Does it all need fixing at 25mm intervals?

Would self tappers be an idea for access if needed to the tank/PRV/pipework?

Maybe have an access panel in that area?

What would be the best sealant? -- any recommendations?

 

Thanks!

The biggest problem John is the small area over each wheel arch, on a TR4 there's a vertical strut at the wheelarch vertical plane which handily allows the larger panel to be riveted to a strong member and the smaller "tabs" of the over wheelarch panels overriveted to it using the same fastening. I'm not sure but I think the TR6 has the same framing ?

 

Yes it does need fastening at 25mm intervals if riveted, some of the TR members have used a mild steel panel and actually welded it to the cockpit frame and uprights, makes it considerably stiffer and resistant to buckling and tearing.

You need to consider which train you are taking here, you're considering using a single piece panel which helps with removing possible leaks at seals between the three panels but then you're considering breaching it with access panels to the pump area(the FUEL pump) ! ! Sort of negates the idea of trying to seal off the fuel leakage area.

 

No self tappers are not a good idea, tight when you've fitted them and then after a couple of thousand miles with the frame flexing they will loosen allowing the panel to spring away from the cockpit frame, and situated underneath the rear comedy hardboard panel and upholstery unnoticed by yourself until you desperately need it.

 

The Indasa windscreen sealer remains soft and sticky but skins over where exposed to air so relatively non messy, it will give a good seal and will be resistant to being burnt through for some minutes, but the alternative intumescent sealer is made for fireproofing cracks and edges and swells up when exposed to fire and heat sealing any gaps which is exactly what we need. There are numerous retailers offering it here's one we are all familiar with.

 

http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Intumescent-Sealant-White-FD301/p/229148

 

In my opinion the roll over cage and rear firewall are THE most important mods for TRs and that includes any go faster bits and multi piston callipers and vented disc.

 

Mick Richards

Edited by Motorsport Mickey
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Thanks guys. Based on the above suggestions my plan is to fit an aluminium fire wall sealed with a fireproof mastic such as :

 

https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjlvOvH7_XVAhVDm5QKHSATAz4QFghSMAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.gyprock.com.au%2FPages%2FProducts%2FAdhesives-Sealants%2FFire-Mastic.aspx&usg=AFQjCNEDJ5ZplnmxqVt97LxRGWXFF3sGjA

 

In front of this I'll fit a Rimmers's bulkhead panel to match the original.

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Made up a bulkhead today to keep spilled petrol from under my feet in the event of a ruptured tank. Fabricated from 0.9 mm gal steel, fastened with 10 no 6mm bolts, sealed to the body with Sikasil 670 Fire. I'll think about adding the "ears" later- I'm not into racing , just nervous about having nothing to keep petrol out of the cockpit in the event of a major leak.

post-4240-0-49820000-1504440985_thumb.jpg

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Made up a bulkhead today to keep spilled petrol from under my feet in the event of a ruptured tank. Fabricated from 0.9 mm gal steel, fastened with 10 no 6mm bolts, sealed to the body with Sikasil 670 Fire. I'll think about adding the "ears" later- I'm not into racing , just nervous about having nothing to keep petrol out of the cockpit in the event of a major leak.

????????

Edited by Rem18
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