KiwiTR6 Posted August 25, 2017 Report Share Posted August 25, 2017 Hi all. One of the major items on the list of fixes for my six is the overdrive unit (J-type). This was professionally rebuilt apparently, but as with other such work it is far from perfect and needs attention. The first issue is pretty obvious - a fairly sizable oil leak. The car has been sitting for several months whilst I sort out my new headers (follow-up story to come in due course) when I can find the time. As the photos show, there is quite a pool of oil on the drip tray and plenty on the sump. The source appears to be the solenoid or close to it. The second is engagement of the overdrive whilst driving. This is particularly harsh, very unlike that of my parents 2.5Pi sedans that I drove as a teen. To overcome this, the previous owner would engage the clutch prior to engaging and disengaging the overdrive. This seems to work OK, but clearly there is an issue that needs to be addressed at some point. Before I go tearing things apart, I would appreciate any info from other members who may be able to offer advice. This includes how much oil I can afford to lose before I need to top up the oil again. Regards Gavin NZ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
astontr6 Posted August 25, 2017 Report Share Posted August 25, 2017 Hi all. One of the major items on the list of fixes for my six is the overdrive unit (J-type). This was professionally rebuilt apparently, but as with other such work it is far from perfect and needs attention. The first issue is pretty obvious - a fairly sizable oil leak. The car has been sitting for several months whilst I sort out my new headers (follow-up story to come in due course) when I can find the time. As the photos show, there is quite a pool of oil on the drip tray and plenty on the sump. The source appears to be the solenoid or close to it. The second is engagement of the overdrive whilst driving. This is particularly harsh, very unlike that of my parents 2.5Pi sedans that I drove as a teen. To overcome this, the previous owner would engage the clutch prior to engaging and disengaging the overdrive. This seems to work OK, but clearly there is an issue that needs to be addressed at some point. Before I go tearing things apart, I would appreciate any info from other members who may be able to offer advice. This includes how much oil I can afford to lose before I need to top up the oil again. Regards Gavin NZ15036489994700.jpg15036489995741.jpg15036490003202.jpg Hi Gavin, I can see that you are not local!!!! But I would phone ORS here in the UK and ask to speak to Peter as far as I am concerned they are the king of O/Ds as they originally worked for Laycock. I had my gear box and o/d rebuilt by them last October and have had no problems. Tel.01142 482632, that one phone call could save you a lot less aggro in the long term. Bruce. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 25, 2017 Report Share Posted August 25, 2017 Hi Gavin, is the OD harsh or is your driving style at odds with it.? Changing into OD is pretty easy - keep the revs steady an engage. Changing out of OD can be very harsh/hard if you let the revs drop. Keep the revs up Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John L Posted August 25, 2017 Report Share Posted August 25, 2017 I think I understood that the J type was a harder engagement than the A type or have I got that the wrong way round? I would check the pressure first, it may be too high. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 25, 2017 Report Share Posted August 25, 2017 Hi John, it is the other way round. The A type is harder than the J. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Austin Branson Posted August 26, 2017 Report Share Posted August 26, 2017 Hello Gavin, I'm not at all sure that you have a problem - I wish mine engaged rather more enthusiastically, it's pretty relaxed, and can take a few seconds to engage. I agree with Bruce, though, a call to ORS might clear the muddy water. Let us know how you get on. Austin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
KiwiTR6 Posted August 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2017 Hi Gavin, I can see that you are not local!!!! But I would phone ORS here in the UK and ask to speak to Peter as far as I am concerned they are the king of O/Ds as they originally worked for Laycock. I had my gear box and o/d rebuilt by them last October and have had no problems. Tel.01142 482632, that one phone call could save you a lot less aggro in the long term. Bruce. Thanks Bruce and others for the comments. Roger, revs kept constant and overdrive kicks in instantly with a concerning mechanical clunk - hence the previous owner's recommendation to use the clutch. Perhaps the oil pressure is too high as John suggests? I know the unit was overhauled here by an engineer of some sort, but after my fun with the brakes that in itself does not give me a lot of confidence. I will certainly give ORS a call in the first instance as Bruce and Austin suggest and go from there. Gavin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR NIALL Posted August 27, 2017 Report Share Posted August 27, 2017 Thanks Bruce and others for the comments. Roger, revs kept constant and overdrive kicks in instantly with a concerning mechanical clunk - hence the previous owner's recommendation to use the clutch. Perhaps the oil pressure is too high as John suggests? I know the unit was overhauled here by an engineer of some sort, but after my fun with the brakes that in itself does not give me a lot of confidence. I will certainly give ORS a call in the first instance as Bruce and Austin suggest and go from there. Gavin Check all Diff Mounts and Gearbox Mount they could be your problem. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
KiwiTR6 Posted July 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2018 Check all Diff Mounts and Gearbox Mount they could be your problem. Niall (& anyone else who may be interested). I'm just revisiting this overdrive issue and before I starting pump pressure diagnostics as per the Buckeye Triumphs article, I reread this thread and noted your comment. Indeed, the rear diff mounts were very loose with about 6mm of vertical play on the pins before I modified the bushes. Thinking about this and the harshness of the ovedrive engagement (a massive clunk when changing with the clutch engaged and drivetrain under load - no such noise or shock with the clutch disengaged as no load on drivetrain) has me thinking that there is possibly nothing wrong with the overdrive at all, it is/was the loose diff mounts as you said. Does this make sense?? Gavin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR NIALL Posted July 19, 2018 Report Share Posted July 19, 2018 Niall (& anyone else who may be interested). I'm just revisiting this overdrive issue and before I starting pump pressure diagnostics as per the Buckeye Triumphs article, I reread this thread and noted your comment. Indeed, the rear diff mounts were very loose with about 6mm of vertical play on the pins before I modified the bushes. Thinking about this and the harshness of the ovedrive engagement (a massive clunk when changing with the clutch engaged and drivetrain under load - no such noise or shock with the clutch disengaged as no load on drivetrain) has me thinking that there is possibly nothing wrong with the overdrive at all, it is/was the loose diff mounts as you said. Does this make sense?? Gavin Gavin have you had the Diff dropped out of the Car I ask this as the 4 Diff Pins need to be inspected very carefully for where they mount into the Diff Bridges,the Pins need reenforcing in several areas as they do and will fracture where they hang from the Bridge. If you’ve done the above Happy Days if not you need to,I’m also sending you a PM as I need you Email Address to send you a Video of another possible cause of your Clonk,Cheers. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
astontr6 Posted July 19, 2018 Report Share Posted July 19, 2018 Hi all. One of the major items on the list of fixes for my six is the overdrive unit (J-type). This was professionally rebuilt apparently, but as with other such work it is far from perfect and needs attention. The first issue is pretty obvious - a fairly sizable oil leak. The car has been sitting for several months whilst I sort out my new headers (follow-up story to come in due course) when I can find the time. As the photos show, there is quite a pool of oil on the drip tray and plenty on the sump. The source appears to be the solenoid or close to it. The second is engagement of the overdrive whilst driving. This is particularly harsh, very unlike that of my parents 2.5Pi sedans that I drove as a teen. To overcome this, the previous owner would engage the clutch prior to engaging and disengaging the overdrive. This seems to work OK, but clearly there is an issue that needs to be addressed at some point. Before I go tearing things apart, I would appreciate any info from other members who may be able to offer advice. This includes how much oil I can afford to lose before I need to top up the oil again. Regards Gavin NZ15036489994700.jpg15036489995741.jpg15036490003202.jpg Hi Gavin looking at your photos, I would question the use of those star anti shake washers on the sump plate, which would create an ideal path for an oil leak? Bruce. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
KiwiTR6 Posted July 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2018 Hi Gavin looking at your photos, I would question the use of those star anti shake washers on the sump plate, which would create an ideal path for an oil leak? Bruce. Good point Bruce. The switch at the top was leaking at the thread and running down to the sump, I managed to make a spanner to remove it from underneath and coat the threads with liquid ptfe thread sealant so that should now be fixed. However, I completely missed those horrid washers - I'll change them asap! Gavin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
graeme Posted July 20, 2018 Report Share Posted July 20, 2018 Hi Gavin looking at your photos, I would question the use of those star anti shake washers on the sump plate, which would create an ideal path for an oil leak? Bruce. The star washers are original fitment by Laycock. Cheers Graeme Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DaveN Posted July 20, 2018 Report Share Posted July 20, 2018 Gavin The gearbox does have a vent hole, check that is clear! It’s a tiny hole about 3/32 inch in the gearbox extension towards the front on the left hand side. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted July 21, 2018 Report Share Posted July 21, 2018 Not all covers have a breather hole especially if they have come from an A type overdrive combo. In one of my ancient posts there should be a picture of where the hole is drilled. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
KiwiTR6 Posted July 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2018 Thanks chaps, I'll leave the star washers for the time being and check out the breather hole (if there is one). I'm out of the country for a week so this will have to wait until I get back. Gavin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
matttnz Posted July 21, 2018 Report Share Posted July 21, 2018 Gav, Could try calling Paul at Hyde automotive in New Lynn, Auckland. He rebuilt mine & works on most of the club TRs up here. As you note, there’s professional rebuilds and then there’s professional rebuilds... He’d at least be able to give you some pointers on what the usual gremlins are and is in a better time zone to chat to. FWIW, my J is very smooth in/out on 4th but not quite as civilised on 3rd. Not anywhere close to feeling like I’d need the clutch in and out though... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted July 22, 2018 Report Share Posted July 22, 2018 (edited) Thanks chaps, I'll leave the star washers for the time being and check out the breather hole (if there is one). I'm out of the country for a week so this will have to wait until I get back. Gavin As you have a J type then checking for a breather hole is first priority. If the gearbox top cover wasnt original to your J type setup and there is no hole you will get oil leaks, guaranteed. The A type does not suffer the same issue because the OD has a breather itself. Edited July 22, 2018 by peejay4A Quote Link to post Share on other sites
KiwiTR6 Posted July 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2018 Gav, Could try calling Paul at Hyde automotive in New Lynn, Auckland. He rebuilt mine & works on most of the club TRs up here. As you note, there’s professional rebuilds and then there’s professional rebuilds... He’d at least be able to give you some pointers on what the usual gremlins are and is in a better time zone to chat to. FWIW, my J is very smooth in/out on 4th but not quite as civilised on 3rd. Not anywhere close to feeling like I’d need the clutch in and out though... Hi Matt. Thanks for the local contact and I will give him a call after I've tried the car again now that the rear diff mounts have no slack in lehem. Logic tells me that this could be the problem as others have pointed out. Might be a little while yet as I'm still making some 'improvements' in a number of other areas Quote Link to post Share on other sites
KiwiTR6 Posted July 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2018 As you have a J type then checking for a breather hole is first priority. If the gearbox top cover wasnt original to your J type setup and there is no hole you will get oil leaks, guaranteed. The A type does not suffer the same issue because the OD has a breather itself. Thanks Pete. I will be looking at that shortly as you suggest. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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