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Leaky oil filter adaptor/oil pressure relief valve


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I have recently been on a mission to rid myself of engine oil leaks,

replacing the sump gasket, timing case gasket/seal and rocker cover

gasket.

 

Apologies if this is a tad long, I will try and keep it short and sweet.

 

The only leak I seem to have now is at the head of the oil filter adaptor,

I have so far replaced all of the seals including the main gasket between the

engine block and oil filter head. In this process I found one rubber seal

broken between the filter head and the first adaptor (the PO had

an oil filter fitted.

 

Previously there was oil dripping from the underside of the adaptor,

unfortunately nothing really has changed except that it is new oil that

is dripping ;-) (not exessively, just annoying)

 

After reading this forum (and other sources) I have noticed that my oil pressure

relief locknut does not have any washers between the large nut head/tube

and the filter adaptor body (Moss part number 500329). I think what may be

happening is that oil is weeping from this joint or between the two locknuts and

then running round the adaptor and then dripping from the underside.

 

I have today bought from Moss, a new ball, spring and the washer with a view to

replacing it all, as I have also seen that sometimes the ball and the spring can

be worn and or have the remains of old gasket material and not be able to

do their job properly.

 

I have been worried by my oil pressure when cold at 90psi, settling down to

50-60psi when hot. I appreciate that if I replace the internals I would need to

adjust the pressure relief valve which I understand is done hot, revving at 2,000

the oil pressure should rise to 75psi and then settle down to 70 psi.

 

Any thoughts / advice greatfully received, also confirmation of the correct

washer/nut arrangement on the filter head.

 

Many Thanks

 

 

 

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I have noticed that my oil pressure relief locknut does not have any washers between the large nut head/tube

and the filter adaptor body (Moss part number 500329). I think what may be

happening is that oil is weeping from this joint or between the two locknuts and

 

then running round the adaptor and then dripping from the underside.

 

This is most likely the source of your problem

 

Otherwise, assuming that you have a spin-on oil filter adaptor (??), the O-ring seal between the spin-on adaptor and the oil filter "head" was notoriously weak and too thin. Problem is that once the seal is crushed wrong once, it will leak forever. I have the initial offering installed on the 4A since 5 years but I think Moss fixed this and now offers a seal of better quality, other members will confirm this, or not.

 

​To adjust the oil pressure, better not rely on the gauge and get a portable oil pressure tester. For best results test should be done when engine oil is at operating temp that is after a 30 min drive. The figures are in the workshop manual i think.

Edited by Geko
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After reading this forum (and other sources) I have noticed that my oil pressure

relief locknut does not have any washers between the large nut head/tube

and the filter adaptor body (Moss part number 500329). I think what may be

happening is that oil is weeping from this joint or between the two locknuts and

then running round the adaptor and then dripping from the underside.

 

Yes it does - pt no 30123 lead linger is sandwiched in the gap and form a seal around the adjuster tube, lock nut and into the recess cut in the top of the steel PRV housing.

PM me and I will post you a length as I still have a (now shortening) 5 metre roll of the stuff.

 

Peter W

 

 

 

 

 

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Hi Barry/Peter,

I took my valve apart last year or so and couldn;t understand what had happened to the O ring.

 

It had changed material and shape. I can understand Uranium turning into lead (or whatever) but not rubber into lead. Is rubber radioactive :o )

 

I replaced it with a rubber O ring. It appears to have done the trick

 

Roger

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Hi Barry,

Lead linger is in the post.

 

 

 

There are two makes/designs of oil filter and PRV assy fitted on TR3/3A/3B/4/4A - They are completely interchangeable as assemblies.

 

The Automotive 'Purolator' and the Tecalamit make. These are 'Full Flow' design.

The Automotive was more common as it was used on TR3/3A/4 and some TR4A. (Beware of TR2 oil filter assy as they are a 'bypass' design not full flow. They fit but do not filter as well) The Tecalamit became fitment on later TR4A.

Maker info is important as it determines parts of the oil pressure relief valve - BUT NOT the use of lead linger under the lock nut. That happened through the entire TR 4 cylinder range.

Main PRV assy

To seat and seal the entire pressure relief valve into the filter head the Tecalamit I think only had a copper or aluminium crush washer, (505272) whereas Automotive 'Purolator' used a steel washer with a square section rubber seal under it that seated in a recess in the filter head. (500328 and 500329)

What ever design you have you need to seal it.

Lock Nut for pressure adjuster

Lead linger is a very simple sealing system - it is a length of soft lead wire, which you wrap once round the pressure adjust then tighten the nut onto it. It simply distorts and spreads to seal any gaps. Form a circle on the item you want to seal then cut to length. It could be considered as re-useable, so long as the entire adjuster is not removed as the adjuster will screw through the lead seal. You effectively create a lead 'O' ring to seal the lock nut and adjuster to the PRV main body.

NB- It is also specified to go under cylinder head washers to stop water coming up the studs, thus contaminating the oil and leaking water. I have not ever used the lead linger under head washers for fear of the lead, having squeezed down between stud and head, causing even more grief when removing the cylinder head.

Oil Pressure Gauge

Have you had your gauges reconditioned? - if so it is expected that the repairer have done a dead weight test to accurately set it.

I tend to trust TR oil pressure gauges. - If you feel that your gauge is duff certainly consider sourcing another gauge to set the PRV - but remember the oil gauge in your car will read differently to the one you set the PRV with, unless you can 'T' into the oil pressure line - another niggle to worry you as you drive.....was the other gauge accurate?

TR oil pressure

This will of course vary with oil type and temperature. Aiming for 65-70 psi at 2000 rpm is a good start.

The tick over pressure will then be between 25 and 50, depending on engine temp.

High oil pressures, of over 90 say, should be avoided as two things can happen. Leaks and the oil pressure gauge needle gets stuck at top reading.

- You then tap it with the Dzus key and break the glass - been there done that...

My 4 cylinder TR car displays 60 - 65 psi at 2000rpm when hot, rising to 65 -70 at higher engine speeds. After a motorway thrash the pressure will be above 25 psi at tick over. I use Millers 20/60 classic oil.

Peter W

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"- You then tap it with the Dzus key and break the glass - been there done that.."

 

Reminds me of when I was the co-pilot on DC10's. We had a flight engineer as part of the crew. About 6 hours into an 11 hour flight one of the centre engine's power gauges stuck so the flight engineer leant forward and gave the offending instrument a tap resulting in the glass breaking. The Captain did not say a word, just gave him a beautifully sarcastic withering look. The engineer apologised and said "must have already been broken as I only very lightly tapped it, just like this" as he tapped the corresponding gauge of the left engine...... yes you have guessed it. But guess who had to buy all the beers that night?

DC10's, a lot of bad publicity but the queen of the skies.

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Thanks for all of your help, its nice to know that there is always a source of help along the 'been there, done that variety' ;-)

 

Thanks Peter for the Lead Linger and the advice/knowledge offered.

 

I have renewed all of the rubber seals in the adaptors, I got a complete new set from Think Auto in Isleworth, I even took all the adaptors

with me and they provided the seals to fit so there should be no doubt.

 

Apart from the annoying leak I am quite happy with my oil pressure (gauge has not been re-conditioned in my ownership), I believe it to be within range. What I have been trying to figure out is why it is so high when cold, I am begining to think that either the ball or spring is worn so will probably replace those as well.

 

Once again thanks for all of your help, knowledge and advice.

 

Barry

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  • 1 year later...

Hi Pascal,

I've previously used multicore solder as a substitute for the lead linger - it works well. You need only a few inches and, if you don't have any in the garage, short lengths aren't expensive on eBay and are readily available.

Hope this helps

Regards

Mike

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On 5/15/2019 at 10:01 PM, pascal33 said:

Hello,

My TR4A IRS lead linger is broken and it is impossible to find a new one (Moss, ...).

Please could you tell me how to do have another lead linger.

Thank you in advance.

Pascal

Pascal,

There is length of Lead linger in the post to you.

Peter W

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