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Hi Folks,

I'm slowly whittling away at the various oil leaks. This morning I found the source of a beauty.

 

The alignment arm on the off side of the OD has a small river Thames running down from it.

 

I see on the Moss WebCat that there is an O ring under it #55 http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/clutch-transmission-drivetrain/overdrives-components/overdrive-units-components-tr2-4a.html

 

Can this be replaced by 'simply' removing the arm and picking it out. :)

Or do I have to take the diff out :o:lol::lol:

 

Roger

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Do make sure that you get the correct one as the supplied one didnt used to be and would stop the overdrive dis-engaging.

Stuart.

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Hi Folks,

the simple job to replace a small O ring can get complex indeed.

 

To replace/renew I need to remove the OD alignment jigging pin lever/arm.

This is held in with a roll pin. This pin has probably been there for the last 55 years - can you believe that the pin does not want to simply knock out.

 

I don;t want to really bash it in case the shaft gets bent.

 

So, any tips out there to move the roll pin ?

it has been well oiled over the last couple of years.

 

I may have to make some sort of extractor thingy.

 

Roger

Edited by RogerH
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Roger

 

Quite recently I changed both O' rings either end of the operating shaft. The one you are referring to behind the adjustment lever I thought would be the most straight forward! I had a job like yourself trying to get the roll pin out. After some effort from under the car and inside (I had the tunnel off) it did come out by drifting it out from inside the vehicle i.e top of the lever to ground - if you see what I mean. The pin has a slight taper so will only come out one way. My hammering from below was therefore pointless. Your set-up is probably the same.

 

Now at this point you will think you are winning because the lever will now slide along the operating shaft. In my case, however, the lever abuts the floor/tunnel sections so it will not slide off. Fortunately, as I had the tunnel off I was able to get enough clearance by levering down the floor section with a large screwdriver under the overdrive unit and pressing down the floor section! Enough clearance then to slide the lever off. The O'ring is then picked out easily. In my case the O'ring was quite hard on it's edges thus failing to seal properly.

 

Hope this helps.

Rob

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Hi Rob,

thanks for that. So the seal is hidden inside the casting boss where the shaft goes through. That explains a lot.

 

So both sides need loosening off and the shaft being move sideways enough to get at the hidden O ring.

 

Is there any danger of the cam etc becoming lost inside.?

 

Roger

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Roger

 

Yes!!

I thought of that but was put off by the knowledge that the operating valve would drop off the cam on the operating shaft into the overdrive unit. However, as long as this is removed, in theory you could by removing the solenoid/solenoid bracket slide the operating shaft across - not sure though whether the tunnel/floor section will again give enough clearance. Additionally, when undoing the nuts (2) and studs(2) you will find this a b&$@er to do without the tunnel off. The solenoid bracket is pressed against by the accumulator spring so the nuts/studs have to be taken off evenly, they are not easy to get at without the tunnel off. The other issue in sliding the operating shaft is losing the cam position relative to the operating valve. You'd have to test it's position with a long thin screwdriver before dropping the operating valve back in.

 

If I had to do this again I'd definitely go to the trouble of taking the tunnel off, especially if your changing both O'rings. Easier to get at the job and adjust the solenoid.

 

Rob

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Roger

 

I'd love to pop over, more than willing, but I am a bit far away for that! Tomorrow I'm even further away in Tenby.

 

Take the tunnel off, you'll find it an easier job.

 

Rob

PS Should have said nuts/bolts (2 of each).

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Just thump it Roger! You know you want to ????

 

If it knows you are determined from the off it will be quivering all night and plop out as soon as you threaten it with a ball/pein hammer and a drift ????????

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Hi Rob,

the tunnel is off so no problem with access.

 

Hi Ben,

I admire your 'go for it' attitude. B)

And when the shaft snaps I will come to you and you will do what exactly :P

 

I have a simple plan for this morning and a more complex plan if the first fails

 

Roger

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I think you should make some sort of extractor thingy.

 

Go on, you know you want to.

 

Pete

Hi Pete,

spent a couple of hours this morning making the extractor tool.

It started out rather neat but it soon became necessary to fettle it on order to get it to fit.

The major diameter on the shaft isn't round :o more rugby ball shapoed - so I had to drag the hole.

 

Thankfully all the important holes all lined up.

 

It didn't appear to work to start with so I spent some time with a decent pin punch hitting in both directions.

 

This did no good. So I went back to the tool and bingo it started to go. Finished off with the pin punch.

 

Roger

This shows the screw hole aligned with the mills pin

 

 

The tool sitting on the arm

 

 

This shows the raggedy holes with the screw and nipple to push on the pin

 

 

This shows the arm sitting in the tool - if only I had the arm before I did the machining.

 

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Hi Bob,

it would have looked nice in the finished/machined condition but the odd shape of the arm called for hand fettling - but it all lined up and worked.

 

The 'Mills' pin that goes through the arm/shaft is tapered and out of stock at Moss. I thought I had aced it yesterday when my local aladin's cave said they have them.

Sadly not - out of stock - but they did have roll pins. Roll pins are slightly different in the they are oversize for the hole and swine to push in.

Also the hole is tapered. So rather than open the hole I will machine down a 1/8" drill shank and make my own 'Mills' pin. I will make th ehead end longer than needed that way the next person to remove it will know which way to extract.

 

Another concern is the O ring. I have the Moss O ring and it is sold as the part for the job :o

Stuart warns about getting the right one, else it may be too stiff.

 

The old ones looked as if they have a square cross section (new ones are the normal round shape) is this just the shape after years in position?

Should they be round or square. ?

What about Q seals in this position?

 

Roger

.

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IIRC they should be square section, the round ones are the ones that gave us the problem. Try talking to ORS.

Stuart.

Edited by stuart
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IIRC they should be square section, the round ones are the ones that gave us the problem. Try talking to ORS.

Stuart.

Bu99er -

I didn't realise they would be square until last night when I took them out. I was hoping that my square ones had been distorted with age.

 

Never mind, I'l button it up and see about the correct seals 'toot sweet' - why do people sell the wrong items.

 

 

Roger

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Hi Folks,

I think I have a problem.

The solenoid has been reconnected and the rigging arm has the 3/16" pin in place and it all looks good.

 

The problem is that with the rigging pin removed the arm can now rotate much further clockwise until it comes to a very solid stop.

Previous, before the seal change, the arm would get to the rigging pin hole and then feel springy and only go a little way past the alignment position.

 

Is it because there is no oil in the OD and every thing is relaxed.

OR have I got something misaligned inside the OD

 

I may well need to take it apart again if the round O rings leak or seize. so it would be good to know where I am.

 

Roger

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