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Hi


Hard at it!


I sprayed the cracked dome with Strating Fluid and nothing that I could detect happened. Maybe that means that it is OK


I dismantled the carbs, cleaned them and put them back together. Success? When I lift the pins without the damper in place, the pistons fall with that nice mettalic sound; but with the dampers fully tightened, I am not sure they fall identically. Can't remember if you test with or without the dampers.


I started the car without the filters and found the first problem: the one you all have been telling me about! The forward piston lifts before the rear one. So, now I am going down to have a go at loosening the carbs, one from the other, but before I mess it all uo, and despite having been told a million times what to do, could you be so kind as to tell me from the photo below, what is the minimum I have to do? Can I undo just ONE screw to set up the rear carb? The red or the green, or both? And can I do it just on one side? Which? The front first to lift piston, or the rear?



EDIT


Rereading the thread, the answer is this one:



The shaft nearest the manifold has two clamps fitted. Undo one lock nut which will disconnect the carbs.


Adjust each butterfly until you get an even reading then re-tighten the clamp.




But... how do I adjust the butterfly? With the screw that controls tickover?




Of course, if there is a leak in the cracked dome, maybe that is the reason why it starts lifting first...




The other problem I have (BIG problem) is that I find it nearly impossible to get the air-filter retaing nuts (especially the one nearest the firewall) out as my normal spanner is too big and thick. How do you folks manage it?

post-14128-0-16547800-1502805738_thumb.jpg

Edited by qim
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The Red Shaft Nut is the Choke,leave it alone.

The Green is the one to Slacken and just one side will do.

When fitting the 3 Screws to the Piston Domes do not tighten them at the same time,you need to tighten them evenly so it's tighten them a little at a time until all 3 are locked up tight.

Edited by TR NIALL
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The Red Shaft Nut is the Choke,leave it alone.

The Green is the one to Slacken.

When fitting the 3 Screws to the Piston Domes do not tighten them at the same time,you need to tighten them evenly so it's tighten them a little at a time until all 3 are locked up tight.

 

Thanks

 

I just posted before you my last doubt: I slacken the nut and then turn the tickover screw until both pistons lift together. Is that it? Or do I have to rotate something like the carb itself?

 

And in view of this long saga, should I go for the forward piston that hisses first, or the retarded one?

Edited by qim
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Has the front piston dome rotate 180 degrees? so it is in line with the rear one.

 

Marcel

 

Hi Marcel

 

Don't quite follow. If you mean that I rotated the pistons 180º the answer is no. They both face with the groove forward. i don't think it is possible to fit piston or dome in any other position.

 

can you clarify yuour post, please?

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Thanks

 

I just posted before you my last doubt: I slacken the nut and then turn the tickover screw until both pistons lift together. Is that it? Or do I have to rotate something like the carb itself?

 

And in view of this long saga, should I go for the forward piston that hisses first, or the retarded one?

You have purchased a carb balancer - this is what it is meant for - place it in each inlet in turn, & adjust the idle speed screw (s) till it reads the same on both sides. Then tighten up the clamp, & look at the pistons as you "rev the engine - they should both go up & down together (dampers out for now)

 

Bob.

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Camilo,

 

only the dome have to rotate 180 degrees, so that it is in the same position like the rear one.

 

Marcel

 

 

( i have H6 and the domes facing always the same side, there is a channel on top of the dome and that must facing outside)

Edited by Quicksilver
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Thank you Tom (and All)

 

You nearly did not have to, because I have just crawled back into the flat needing an oxygen bottle. Someone here forgot to tell me not to attempt this job in a nearly closed garage....

 

Rught, for those who doubted my abilities, the job is done (well, nearly). After much fume inhalation and many failures with the rear carb: undoing the nut, turning the screw, doing the nut, lrevving up to see if the pistons behaved in unison (and DID NOT); I decided to have a go at the other front carb and EUREKA I managed to get both carbs to lift the pistons roughly at the same time. Then, I balanced the carbs, and used an old spoon to lift the pistons a little to see if I could decide on the mixture. The result is that I felt that the rear carb was much too rich and kept screwing the mixture screw up. Now the car will probably start producing a positive consumption or will not run at all!

 

Once I recover (either oxygen or another beer) I will go down for the impossible job of putting the rear air-filter back in position: noone answered my cry for help regarding this as I find an imnpossibility to tighten the rear screw without losing half the flesh in my hands, or my patience and temper!

Camilo

Edited by qim
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Yes, Dalwhinnie was my drink, but did not do my sugar levels a lot of good. So, planning on living to 120 I have not tasted a drop of anything other than wine over meals for number of years. Not even beer, but after a nice holiday in Holland with my daughter, I did fall for the local stuff and now as I can't get it here draft, I have been having some Coronas with lime (as now!).

 

What about the secret to get my air-filters back in place?

Edited by qim
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I would not bother putting the air filters back on until you confident that the carbs are set up to your satisfaction, try a road test first.

 

By the way, you don't need to use a spoon to lift the pistons, there is a small spring loaded pin under the carb body, press this upwards, & it pushes the piston up, this can be done even with air filters on. The pistons should only be raised the smallest amount to check the mixture.

 

Bob.

Edited by Lebro
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Hi Bob

 

Yes, I know about the pin and tried it but I hear about the lifting of the pin with a screwdriver and the nearest to that in my garage was an old spoon!

 

As for going waiting til I go out for a drive, no way! I cannot go through this exercise again. I nearly died! If I have to do it again I will send some air tickets to Tom and take him up on his offer!

 

Meanwhile if I screwedup the mixture (a strong possibility) I can always reach the mixture nut, or use my Colortune for the first time

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I have just taken the car for a short drive, without filters, and guess what? It runs fantastic, a lot, lot better than before. So, I will accept congratulations in 10 languages!

 

Now, being serious: many thanks to all of you that put up with me for weeks, giving a lot of advice.

 

The local garage is only about 3 miles away and I think I am going to leave the air filters off and get them to put them back. tomorrow morning.

 

One other thing: in my old air filters, I used to take the mesh wire out and clean it. But these I have now are sealed. How do you clean them?

 

Thanks, Obrigado, Merci, Danke, Gracias, Dank je, xe xe (that's supposed to be Mandarin...)

Edited by qim
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If my memory isn't wrong, it's the easiest thing on earth to put the AC air filters on my car's SU H6 carburettors. A simple 7/16" combination wrench, as I recall. Plenty of room to tighten the bolts, although it does take a little agility.

 

I don't get your problem, Camilo. What wrench are you trying to use? Do your non-standard filters attach differently somehow?

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