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Camilo,

 

If you didn't notice that "shiny line" before, just ask the mechanic.

You never now....

 

Marcel

 

Hi Marcel

 

There is no point. Not only I had serious personal problems with him towards the end and decided not to go there again, hence my own attempts at tuning the carbs, but he also took possssion of some gaskets that I had in an original ST set, including a reddish Insulating Block that he needed for MY car and was never fitted.

 

I cannot prove anything, so there is little point in visiting the cop shop!

 

First: maybe there is no leak and I can live with it for a while. I called Burlen Ltd (the SU people) and they do not have any pistons+pistion chambers in stock. Maybe in two months.

 

Second: are these things repairable? Where?

 

Camilo

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Just look out for a second hand H6 carb, they are often seen at autojumbles, or someone on here might have one.

The "matching up" would be matching the dome to the piston inside, not dome to dome. so get the pair, & you'r away.

 

Bob.

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Bob, are domes interchangeable (H6 and HS6)?

 

I am starting to tyhink that the whole carb assembly was swapped with the other car! I had the spindles between the carbs changed as the mech had told me that there was play and I oredered new parts that he fitted Now, they look rather old!

Edited by qim
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I think I posted some pics of the carbs some time last year. Is there a way of finding all my image post together?

 

Meanwhile, I found a couple of older photos to see if there is any difference that proves the carbs are not the same... but are they still HS6?

post-14128-0-51313400-1502790902_thumb.jpg

post-14128-0-57230000-1502790913_thumb.jpg

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Sorry, I don't know if H6 & HS6 domes are the same, your photos show HS6's alright, but I can't see the crack.

 

Bob.

Edited by Lebro
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These latest pictures and the ones you posted earlier in post 20 are both HS6 Camilo. You can easily tell because the space between the carb body and the manifold is short (hence the S). H type carbs are spaced away by about 2 1/2 inches.

 

If you want to see all the pictures you have uploaded then open the reply box to the topic, click on 'my media' in the header and then on 'attachments' on the top left.

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A few more, that unfortunately don't show the crack but the spindles despite being the ones before the fitting of the new ones, appear to be cleaner than the current ones, Do you agree?

 

 

PS - I have a pic of the inside of one of the carbs. Does it identify the carb, should it have been switched, or is it just the reference of the that type of carb?

 

 

PPS - Last summer I ordered 2 throttle spindle kits and carb jets front and rear, which the mech fitted. The photos in post #20 don't look like new spindles...

post-14128-0-18965800-1502791928_thumb.jpg

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post-14128-0-49796200-1502791946_thumb.jpg

post-14128-0-95874800-1502791954_thumb.jpg

post-14128-0-99957500-1502791963_thumb.jpg

post-14128-0-21241900-1502791973_thumb.jpg

post-14128-0-66717400-1502791981_thumb.jpg

post-14128-0-64867600-1502792787_thumb.jpg

Edited by qim
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New Spindle along with Old Spindle,I'll let you guess which is which.

BTW New or Old Spindles won't make any difference to your situation the Carbs just need Setting Up properly.

Sorry as Bob says Connecting Rods.

 

Edited by TR NIALL
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What do you mean by "spindles" ?

None of your photos show "new" throttle & choke connecting rods, they are all pretty old, but probably nothing wrong with them.

If you mean butterfly spindles then they are not visible in your photos.

 

Bob.

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Returning to the initial problem of hissing

 

I calibrated both carbs with my new carb balancer. As I posted, the front carb hisses; the rear one does not at all. Could this be due to the crack in the front dome, that theoretically would get more air beacuse of the crack and so would hiss first?

 

On the other hand they were calibrated with the crack, anyway.It could also be that the crack has been repaired and that there is no crack any longer.

 

Anyway, I will go ahead with disconnecting the carbs and rtying to tune them independently.

 

Camilo

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What do you mean by "spindles" ?

None of your photos show "new" throttle & choke connecting rods, they are all pretty old, but probably nothing wrong with them.

If you mean butterfly spindles then they are not visible in your photos.

 

Bob.

Hi Bob

 

I think the pics in post #30 show the spindles.

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Sorry Qim they are the Connecting Rods the Spindles are inside the Carb with the Butterfly attached.

 

Well.. we are not all that smart! Good thing you cannot see me in this forum as my face has gone as red as a tomato!

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qim ~

 

It could be that your mechanic swapped the damaged 'dome' from his TR??

 

Tom.

 

Not his TR; the other TR3A from another customer...

 

That's the bad theory. Now, I am trying to see the positive side: that he is honest, but did not have the courage to tell me that he had cracked the dome, and hoped that a quick repair would fix it. In fact, it may have done

 

In a half-hour, after my coffee, I am going down to try this magical Starting Fluid. Being the first time, and having read that it is a fire hazard, if you don't hear from me again, read the local newspaper obituaries!

 

Any advice on how to spray the SF onto the dome? Cold/warm engine? Spray close by/ from a distance? What to hear for: speeding up of the engine?

 

Thanks

Edited by qim
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qim ~

 

You should be using Carburettor Cleaner not Starting Fluid!

 

Tom.

 

Hi Tom

 

The idea of the SF is to check for air leaks; not to clean it. If the crack is still open, I expect to hear the engine revving up, so I read.

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The only part of a spindle I can see is highlighted, & looks new to me.

 

attachicon.gifCarbs.jpg

 

Bob.

 

Hi Bob

 

i will have another good look at it. I am pretty good at jumping to conclusions... even though I already had some complaints about this mech.

 

As I said, maybe he just dropped the dome and repaired it. There is one pic that I posted, from last year that shows that part of the carb, and there is no sign of damage.

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